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Either one of the relocation kits will work just fine.

I don't usually say this but search, theres a few threads with ALL the details involving this entire process including part numbers and diagrams. Edit: You're lucky I'm bored ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=56194

Just out of curiousity, what is our strongest vacuum source on the manifold? That little nipple in the back? I am currently using the large nipple on the front of the intake manifold (front if you're standing in front of the car) and my bov doesn't seem to be performing the way it should..

As long as they're not leaking, no harm done... IMO unless you're not blowing off enough you're only adding another potential boost leak though!

Sounds like every symptom of a bad TPS... $75 from jay marks will buy you peace of mind!

I'd be curious to see if it made much of a difference, the computer doesn't use the NB o2 input when the engine is cold anyway does it?

I absolutely agree!

Yes but fuel cut is still very much there!

Unfortunately you have to understand that yours went bad so what says the other 18 year old car's ISC isn't bad also? If you just want peace of mind, get it new!

Once you've been browsing forums for a few years you tend to just not care anymore. With that said, it still bothers the shit out of me :(

Basically this is up to your tuning device... Just like with the original MAFT and its dials or the SAFC2's corrections, the MAFT Pro can "trick" the ecu into thinking theres more or less air coming in than there really is. Wait until you have the wideband hooked up so you know whats going on...

To everyone trying to adjust their TPS and ending up with this jerkiness problem - I suspect your TPS, though within spec, is not working 100% properly. However, there is a way to get around this without getting a new TPS. It requires some fiddling but basically, adjust it to base TSRM specs...

http://7mpower.com/kamil/rebuild Eat your picture lovin heart out ;)

Mine is stock and works fine after countless removals...

Excellent, thank you for the response, it definitely cleared things up for me! Nowhere in either the directions that came with my unit nor the directions from GrimJack's online maft manual (http://7mpower.com/kamil/maftmanual.htm) does it say idle, mid and wot should be set back to 0 after base...

After initial base tuning and the Mode 4 switch is set to ON (up, done after ignition off for 10 seconds and key removed) for RPM based tuning, do you reset all the dials to "0" and then turn the car back on or do the dials stay in the same positions you put them for base tuning and those are...

Might be tricky and I'm no electrical expert but you'd have to calibrate an audio device (speaker or whatever) to react to the exact voltage produced by the wideband at 12.5:1 AFR.. Sounds like a fun project :)

Yep, that pretty much settles it, black with polished lip :) Thanks Brewster, I totally forgot I could photoshop lol!

And here's what they'll look like when I get them refinished and put on my car ;) http://kahmeal.com/poopra/ I am throwing around the idea of getting the lip repolished and powdercoating the main portion of the wheels midnight black (my car is black also). Any input on this?

Also using Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil here and its been working fabulously for me.