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It's hard to see aything with that mangled HG in the way. Take that off, shop-vac the water out (not wipe with rag, that just packs crap in your rings) and post new pics =p Carbon buildup is normal, that just shows that the driver didn't do a good job of blowing it out regularly the liquid is...

Do not mess with the screw. It is not an adjustment meant for customers to play with. Do put the stocker back in and run both. Better yet, put a bosch in instead. I run that way and it is good. the SSQV does not like to release properly at light boost. Let the bosch handle that.

You can gat that body kit here

2" was a mother to get on there. Just did that 2 weeks ago. 2.25" is probably a better choice.

My JDM experience is 95% success. Jowever, I did not drop it in and go, I did a full dissasembly, bearings, rings, hone, and deck resurface. The water passages in the block at the HG were rotted out and became much larger. Some were even larger than the edge ring on a stock HG. I have never...

Need? no. You will just be running ~9:1 AFR under boost and hit fuel cut real early. Having a SAFC means you will be able to pull fuel out when in open loop mode and this will keep you further away from the edge of the map. Then you can turn up the boost and make many more ponies. Need? I...

Drill out the stock in/out holes and tap for a fat AN fitting. :)

How often do you need heat in Puerto Rico? ;) Disconnected = closed, so you are not getting any water circulation thru the heater core. If you want heat you will need to prop it open. Can do this mechanically (tie wraps for the win!) or just by moving the vacuum supply from the CSV to the...

Isn't the stock fuel rail like half an inch inside? I'd love to know how many ponies the engine is making when you need more flow than that.

http://www.sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=2853 Change 'em once a year

The only thing that line does is allow a little more air in at idle when turning the wheel. It is supposed to keep the engine from stalling when the PS pump puts a load on it. The line goes to a valve on the PS pump that only opens when there is high pressure in the pump. IE: during a turn...

One car, driven daily for 5+ years. Has never left me on the side of the road. Although, I have "had" to call in to work a day or two for unexpected repairs ;) Intake: - Alamo 2.5" hard pipes - 57 trim ct-26 (no exhaust clip) - Alamo IC - SSQV to atmosphere + recirculating Bosch...

It's also a thermal barrier. Your hood steel and paint will get hotter with it removed. No idea by how much though =/

Feelers can be stacked to add up to the thickness you need. However, make sure they are clean. Any dirt, oil, or other type of spooge between the layers will make it thicker than you expect.

Any cat-less car is gonna stink. I ran mine with a test pipe for a whole month before putting on a shiny new 3" cat. I have no desire to smell like an old chevy pickup.

Been running the Lexus/440cc/S-AFC setup for a couple years now. I add 20% across that board at low, then only add ~5% under boost. Life is good, but it does not remove fuel-cut. The act of leaning it out under load only moves the cut line up. Fuel cut still happens near 1600hz. Just get...

And I thought the "maybe if I paint the hood black people will mistake it for CF" crowd were all honduh owners. Please, make it go away!

How the heck did I get to reading in this forum??? *bonk* disregard :)

I run both stock (well, bosch) and an aftermarket venting to atmosphere. Runing either toyota or lexus AFM setups (AKA draw-thru) without recirculating air causes pig rich conditions when blowing off.

There are only 2 blockoff plates. One goes on the exhaust side rear of the head. It covers the passage into the #6 exhaust port. The other goes on the surge tank. There is no need for plates to cover the other 2 holes on the head. That is only a passthru on the corner. First plate goes...