Recent content by nosman4

  1. nosman4

    Stumped, Engine starts then dies after a few seconds

    http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26 Follow the process in the online manual, there are several possible problems. You just have to start from the beginning. Ian
  2. nosman4

    Tensioner case problem

    Are the locating dowel pins installed in the rear timing cover to engine block area? This could cause it to be off, otherwise it needs to be machined flush with the block or you will have problems later.
  3. nosman4

    Turbo A Oil Pan?

    Or buy this.... http://www.beechperformance.com/images/p40.jpg Go here http://www.beechperformance.com/html/toyota_products.html and it is about half way down the page.
  4. nosman4

    ARP Head Studs Too LONG!!!!

    Ill take a picture for you if you want? If I can get one that is.....
  5. nosman4

    ARP Head Studs Too LONG!!!!

    Alright, Thanks Guys
  6. nosman4

    ARP Head Studs Too LONG!!!!

    Yes I used a bottoming tap. I have been working as an auto tech for 10+ years. The threads are clean. They were pretty much clean before I even started. I have not put lube on the studs yet as I am not ready to install them. The studs are threading all the way to the bottom of the threads in the...
  7. nosman4

    ARP Head Studs Too LONG!!!!

    Did you read my post before responding? Anyways, I shortened the studs so that they sit flush with the block. This is the second set I have done this with and the 1st is holding up great. It just made me nervous when I measured everything and it was very close, plus I removed some off the head...
  8. nosman4

    ARP Head Studs Too LONG!!!!

    Yes I did, The depth of the hole is 1.1 inches or a little under. The length of thread on the stud is just under 1 inch, there is about .250 thou left to thread in. That means there is about .300-.350 thou in the bottom of the hole left unthreaded, which looks about right. This thing just...
  9. nosman4

    ARP Head Studs Too LONG!!!!

    Anyone ever had this problem? I could understand seeing this problem with a head and block that has been machined, but this car hasn't had either and they are still too long. I am having the head machined so this makes me worry even more. There are about 5 threads sticking out of the block still...
  10. nosman4

    Quick rebuild question

    Just scrap it carefully with a razor blade and then clean it with some fine scotchbrite pads by hand.
  11. nosman4

    Quick rebuild question

    You need to check it for flatness with a straight edge and go from there. The cylinder head surface must be clean before checking it. Toyota gives you a spec for warpage that is acceptable. I have replaced a headgasket without resurfacing again after only a few thousand miles, but it wasn't...
  12. nosman4

    Anyone in the area good with R154s?!

    Any updates?
  13. nosman4

    Anyone in the area good with R154s?!

    I had to grind on the pin when I installed the marlin crawler thrust washer, make it shorter I believe. I think the washer goes on with some tapping from a hammer and punch. What is the engraved number on your shift fork? Just curious as I got a mismachined shift fork that marlin crawler denied...
  14. nosman4

    Anyone in the area good with R154s?!

    Crush it buy a Prius! I've heard it a hundred times before..... I work at a Saab repair shop in Bend, so I have dealt with Travis on several occasions. My best guess is that you have a thrust washer out of place or maybe something not pressed all the way in to position. Start checking the parts...
  15. nosman4

    Anyone in the area good with R154s?!

    Tell Travis to help you out! He might suggest a thousand different things in 2 seconds though. He's always going a million miles an hour. Haha. ;-) If I was closer I would. How far can you tighten it down before it sticks? Maybe a thrust washer out of place?