Wow, that sucks. Did you pay via credit card on paypal? If you did, just do a chargeback. If you paid through your bank, you could try contacting them too.
Yeah, I think I'd use jack stands too if I got under one to be extra safe. Someone has dropped a transmission using one of these, so the exhaust should be doable as well.
The groupbuy just hit 21 people, so the price is now at $1275, the lowest it'll go. I just measured my garage and although...
One of the cross sections can be removed after the lift is partially raised/lowered. I know it's not ideal and a real lift would be, but I've got space constraints to deal with too.
Not from what I've gathered after doing *lots* of research.
Will a cheap jack last several years if you're...
I think the last group buy for it was around $1500.
Thanks for all the input so far guys. It seems that on every car message board, people either love, think it's a waste of money, or think it's too expensive.
Most other "portable" lifts aren't really portable. The only portable lift that I'd consider is the MaxJax:
http://www.maxjaxusa.com/
That one would be a tight fit in my garage. And that's if it would even fit at all.
No proper jack will cost under $100. You're thinking of Chinese garbage. A proper jack IMO is something along the lines of an AC Hydraulic
I've already said that I refuse to install a real lift in a garage that I don't plan on staying in the rest of my life.
There's a group buy going on and the current price is $1340; regular price is $2000:
http://www.gotogroupbuy.com/229/EZCARLIFT.aspx?source=legacygt&loc=Ezcarliftpics
I'm just wondering if anybody has one. I know it's not as good as a two-post lift, but I'm not going to have one installed...
I'm putting my money on the thermostat then. Normal behaviour should be that the gauge will read 90 once the car warms up. It will occasionally go up to 110-120 when the thermostat opens up, then will go back down to 90 (or to whatever your radiator was able to cool the coolant to). My guess is...
Pressuring the system will only tell you if there's a leak. It won't tell you if there's air in it. Sure you could try bleeding it, but I'd rather floor it in 1st a few times than jack up the front of the car, drain a bit of coolant so it won't overflow, then warm the car up to see if there are...
Because the way the gauge is behaving might be normal. Doing the test I described hurts nothing, is easy to do, and gives us more information to determine if it's a problem or not.
That could either be normal or an air in your cooling system as said earlier. Try this. Go WOT, have it hit 110-120, then wait for it to go back down to 60-70. Then, immediately go WOT again. If it hits 110-120 again right away, then you most likely have air in your system. If it stays at 60-70...
As in it constantly swings from cold to hot? Or does it stay a temperature (90C), and then goes up to 110-120C for a little bit, then goes back to 90? The latter is normal behavior as your thermostat opens and closes. It won't stay in one place after the engine has warmed up like the stock gauge.
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