Recent content by Mr dude

I can't figure out the wiring for the cruise control. The 'power on' for the cruise light works, but that's it. Which wires are for the cruise only? Anyone knows how to wire it up? Btw, my battery light stays on all the time. The alternator is working fine, no issues at all. It's probably a...

maybe this site helps? http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=809&page=5 Are you sure you have the JZX90 engine?

I noticed the same fault. It should be the yellow wire from IJ1. I figured out most of the wiring myself because most swap reports are still containing some mistakes/incomplete, and I want everything to work as it should (didn't test it yet though) But yesterday I found this site...

I used this guid to wire in a soarer jzz30 1jz in my 89'. Most of the wires are correct. But it seems to me that there are still some funtions unused. There are a lot of unused wires on the jzz30 harness. E.G. what about ABS and A/C? is it working when I finish this? And I cant find the B2...

For the 1jz you can use the ARP bolst from a 4AG engine. And to confirm again, use loctite because the holes are not blind.

How would you seal the bolts then? If you don't use any kind of sealing, oil wil deff. leak into your bellhousing/clutch. Btw the original bolts have a tread sealing on them, if you buy them at an toyota dealer.

Use loctite 545, I use it a lot at my work... Loctite 545 Thread Sealant Hydraulic/Pneumatic Sealant, numbers 54505 and 54531. 545 is a liquid sealant for locking and sealing high pressure, fluid power systems with tapered fittings. Contains no fillers and will not foul valves or fluid...

Lol.. Well as I live in Holland, and the dollar and Japan Yen are quite low compared to the Euro, I have them for the same price as some crowers from the states...

No they are designed specific for the 1jz and have a higher lift than other cams (9,3 mm on all the JUN cams) Check out Greenline if you are interested. http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpartlist.php?make=Toyota&carcode=JZZ30&intake=FI&category=engine Also ordered some Greddy rods...

I'm using JUN 272. Dicided to go with the duals anyway....

Well I'll discuss with him but he's very bussy at the moment. So I thought I save some time by finding out myselfe...

I'm currently building a bullet proof 1JZ, and I ran into the following problem; Maybe there is someone who actually put dual valvesprings in a 1jz head, and 1mm oversized 2jz valves, (because this is not a 'drop in') could help... So first of all 2jz valves are different. The 1jz exhaust...

This could be an old code, because I allready replaced the AFM electronics, and that doesn't solve anything... But what could damage after running 18 psi for a while? Like injectors, or afpr. btw I allready replaced my aeromotive afpr for a new one.

I bypassed the j-tube but didn't remove it. Ow and the only fault code was nr 24. Something with the AFM, wich I replaced/

AFR @ idle is 14.7 But right after the lexriemer mod, it ran perfect for a 100 miles or something. After that it startet to stutter more and more. I've done the 12V mod and upgraded the fuel pump for a walbro. Before the stutter began I could adjust the AFR quite well with the fuel pressure only.