Recent content by Bru

I answered this question on the Supra forums as well. The 2 wiring harness ground bundles go on the right. Clean them up with a bit of fine sandpaper first. Rotate the fuel line support bracket and bolt it to the left. You can see the outline of it where it has been since the car was made.

The weird sounds to the far right could be something rubbing against the blower squirrel cage. I've only had problems with the heater valve vacuum actuator in the past. You can check its function by looking before and after turning it on that the shaft moves up and you feel heat. The valve...

Giving the fan blade a quick push clockwise, it shouldn't turn more than 1/3 turn. When a fan clutch goes bad, it starts slinging tiny drops of oil that end up on other belts. Things that can affect your cooling include the thermostat, radiator cap, and fan belt tension. Take a peek between...

That sounds reasonable. Others have glued on thin strips of wood for reinforcement. Here's an example of that on the Supra Forum. Click here to go there.

Here's an approach that allows you to maximize the shins you have. Measure the thickness of all the shims and record it. Put sharpie identifiers on them like I1....I12 and E1...E12 to identify where they are now. Measure the valve lash by the book method with the cams in the positions shown...

You can pick up a soldering kit at Harbor Freight.

You have to wonder why this happened in the first place. Is it a rubbing contact? I would just carefully solder it after cleaning it with a brush or razor blade. Don't apply too much heat, or it could melt.

The mesh screen is in the reservoir near the bottom. If you take the reservoir off you can back flush it manually. Check the belt tension and for liquid contaminating it causing slippage (Squealing). The idle air valve is activated when turning the steering wheel at idle. It allows a little...

It shows as discontinued in the states. You may find one in Europe as it fits a number of vehicles. See the fitment below. eBay is also a place to look.

The only thing that comes to mind is a collapsed hose or debris plugging up the flow of fluid. That's why I suggested a flush with new. If the hoses are old it might be time to replace them. Take a turkey baster and draw up fluid from the reservoir to see if there are bits and pieces of rubber...

Try Rock Auto. RAYBESTOS BC93687 $22, and RAYBESTOS BC93520 $25 for the set plus tax and shipping. The front No.1 cable at the handle can be found on eBay for $64. The part number for the equalizer bar is 46341-12010.

It sounds like air is getting in the system. Do you have any leaks? Try jacking up the front wheels and moving them manually from lock to lock to bleed. Check the fluid level at that point to see if it's low. You can also get a squealing sound if you're running the engine and you hit the lock...

I bought a 25 foot box of Derale 13017 (Continental, ContiTech) 3/8 engine oil/transmission/ power steering hose to replace the oil cooler circuit hose and power steering low-pressure hose. 10 years later I'm still using hose from the box. Maker website.

Looks like Auto DN is a world wide parts supplier based in SK. Good luck with your build.

If yours aren't giving you any trouble, don't bother. Try to find OEM if possible. eBay is a possibility, but avoid nasty ones, or unknown mileage. Expect to pay blood money though. Rock auto has them under CV axle, but probably China made. Maybe someone else has a aftermarket suggestion.