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If your oil pressure is at least 36 psi at 3000 RPM with a warmed up the engine, then you're in good shape as far as the manual says. As long as maintenance was observed during that 100K miles, you shouldn't have any issues. The first time I rebuilt my engine was at 238,000 miles with the...

They got the part number correct for a GE non-turbo, which matches the picture, but you're right it's not a GTE and no intercooler parts either. I've sent a few emails to would-be sellers educating them. The only thing interesting in that lot are the seat belt tensioners. It's almost pointless...

The only issue with that is that after it's cut, they need to be on the same level. The best scenario would be if the front plate were equal or higher than the block before the cut. If the front plate is lower, and after the block is cut still lower, then that would be an issue. There would...

The oil squirters would be overkill for a non-turbo application. They help to cool the bottom of the pistons, which gets hotter in a turbo engine. You could go either way depending on the cost. Something you're going to need to do is plug up the oil feed by the engine serial number for the...

The OEM parts rarely go bad. If yours are still functional, stick with them. All you're going to find on eBay are questionable used parts at exorbitant prices. It appears TrakMotive parts are made in China and distributed worldwide with distribution centers in the US, Canada, and Europe. They...

There are 2 plastic routing clips that attach to the coil pack itself. There is one in front that you can see in my photo, and there's another underneath that is shown in the manual photo. I guess the whole idea of this routing scheme is to reduce the chance of spark induction in adjacent...

Here's a photo of the coil pack set up with the white stamped numbers visible. Left to right 1-6-3-4-2-5. The front row in the wire retaining clip is 1-3-4-2 and the back row is 6-5. Each retaining cap has dots to indicate which coil pack it connects to. I've noticed that they come in two...

You can check the piston to cylinder clearance even if it's with a Harbor Freight vernier caliper. Machine shops use a bore gauge that fits down in the middle of the bore. You could request that information or include the pistons for them to measure as well to get the difference. Ring end gap...

To be clear, when installing the CPS, take off the oil filler cap and rotate the engine clockwise until you see the #1 cylinder intake cam lobe pointing up indicating top dead center and also at the crankshaft timing mark. Rotate the engine about 120° clockwise, then back up counterclockwise 10...

Some other things worth noting are checking the piston to cylinder wall clearance (0.003 - 0.010"), and ring end gap. Piston compression rings are marked showing which side is up. Stagger the end gaps so they don't line up. Be sure your machine shop puts a crosshatch on your cylinder walls...

The only reason I used the ARP main studs and nuts is that they came with a donor engine. I also used ARP connecting rod bolts and nuts from that same donor engine. If you want to sleep at night you can check the oil clearances everywhere using plastigauge. Most auto places have it. It's...

ARP studs are an upgrade over stock Toyota bolts. ARP also makes a bolt set. I had no issues with the washers that came with the ARP studs and nuts. If the center hole is chamfered, be sure that it's facing up. Here's a link to the ARP question and answer page. Click here to go there. There's a...

A MLS gasket requires very smooth surfaces if your machine shop is up to that. Bear in mind that Toyota allows 0.010" removed from both services total before a thicker head gasket recommended. Stock head thickness is 116 mm or 4.567". Stock block distance from the main bearing saddle to the...

What you're describing reminds me of when I forgot to plug-in the airflow sensor. It would start, but ran like crap and would cut out. Here's a link to the online manual so you can check what you described in what you double did. Also make sure that bundle of ground wires under the intake...

I was always missing the volt meter in my Turbo car until I got a cigarette lighter USB power supply that also has a voltage readout. When nothing is plugged into it, the voltage is displayed. I notice it jumps from like 12.7 to near 14, after I start the car. When you have something plugged...

Make sure you have enough coolant in the system. Low coolant is indicated by the temperature needle whip lashing back and forth. You could drain out some coolant and test the thermostat by placing it in a pan of water then heating it up near boiling. The valve should open at the rated...

Alcyon has a good fix. Otherwise, eBay has an aftermarket replacement part. Click here to go there. You're talking about the sliding double D shaft that's in the engine compartment, correct?

I spy with my little eye that you have a 86 1/2 to 88 body with a 89 to 92 rear wing. Paint looks like 3H1 red pearl metallic. It doesn't have the headlight sprayers, or targa top so probably 7MGE? Clear front turn signal lenses for that euro look.