I searched around and just found threads on replacement, but can I just remove the subframe bushings? I don't want to do away with them completely I just want to raise the subframe to get a better angle for the LCA and steering rack. I threw a ruler under there Its close to an inch. I know this will affect the height of the motor and im probably going to buy urethane ones just getting some info.
subframe bushing Delete?
- Thread starter NYsBlueMA
- Start date
I searched around some more still very little info out there. Something else that crossed my mind would MKIV arms match up and be longer? I wouldnt see why not I just want a flush and sexy MKIII on sawblades and a nice ride without a fight.
Mk4 arms will make the wheel sit farther back towards the rear and look worse.
Cant remoce the subframe bushings either. Thats like saying lest remove the engine mounts.
Why not add spacers?
Cant remoce the subframe bushings either. Thats like saying lest remove the engine mounts.
Why not add spacers?
I don't want to move them completely just raise it up a little bit as for the arms I meant the uppers I have 3.0 degrees of camber I wanted around a 1.5-2.0 degree its a daily project
I have a big drop but I read elsewhere that the bolt and or place where they sit may be bent but im maxed out. I just want a really nice drop and have levelish LCA's. Adjustable arms are ridiculous money I just need some length in my upper arms and level out the lowers thats all
What are your alignment specs right now? Sure the tabs arent bent or lazy guy aligning it? Bushings good? What are you dropping the car with? How low are you?
I have Stance GR+ coilovers stock sawblades are pretty much flush with the fender so I would say about a 3in. drop. I did the alignment myself at my job thats when I saw the space because jack stands never do you justice. Alignment specs are Camber 3.0, toe 0, caster around high 9's. I just hate the bumpsteer, there are no center adjusting ball joints for MK3's and I hear the stance tie rod angle kit doen't work.
Whats wrong with 3* of camber? That should be fine for daily use
bumpsteer is not due to your lower control arm angle, it's due to the angle your tie rod makes with the ground...which is a function of the height of the steering rack and the location of the steering pickup point on the knuckle. Raising the subframe won't help bumpsteer or ride quality...it will help roll center though.
bumpsteer is not due to your lower control arm angle, it's due to the angle your tie rod makes with the ground...which is a function of the height of the steering rack and the location of the steering pickup point on the knuckle. Raising the subframe won't help bumpsteer or ride quality...it will help roll center though.
Umm no 3* of camber is not good. Thats a ton of inside tire wear and then you get your wheels looking like this / \.
Should be around .8-1.2 for best tire wear. Mine have been at 1.2 in the rear with zero wear problems. Fronts are at 1.4 and wear the inside a tad.
Should be around .8-1.2 for best tire wear. Mine have been at 1.2 in the rear with zero wear problems. Fronts are at 1.4 and wear the inside a tad.
camber doesn't wear tires
toe wears tires
camber + toe gives the appearance that camber is wearing on your tire.
Get your toe in spec and you will get the same mileage out of the tire as you would with 1* of camber. Although you will have more wear on the inside...it will be the same amount of overall wear.
---------- Post added at 12:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ----------
also should add. If you raise just your front subframe then your roll center in front is going to go up, while your rear roll center stays the same. this will negatively effect your handling.
toe wears tires
camber + toe gives the appearance that camber is wearing on your tire.
Get your toe in spec and you will get the same mileage out of the tire as you would with 1* of camber. Although you will have more wear on the inside...it will be the same amount of overall wear.
---------- Post added at 12:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ----------
also should add. If you raise just your front subframe then your roll center in front is going to go up, while your rear roll center stays the same. this will negatively effect your handling.
Dude seriously.
You contradicted your self.
Camber does wear tires. Toe feathers them. Excessive negative camber wears the inside edge of the tire. Excessive positive camber wears the outside. Excessive toe will scrub the tire at a angle causing the tires not only to get messed up but to make your car swerve in a straight line.
-3* of camber WILL wear the tire unevenly. IF you want i can go take a picture of my front tire for you there only at -1.4 and wearing unevenly on the inside edge.
Ever notice the guys that roll around like this / \. Ever look at there tires? Ever notice that they go through tires like crazy?
You contradicted your self.
Camber does wear tires. Toe feathers them. Excessive negative camber wears the inside edge of the tire. Excessive positive camber wears the outside. Excessive toe will scrub the tire at a angle causing the tires not only to get messed up but to make your car swerve in a straight line.
-3* of camber WILL wear the tire unevenly. IF you want i can go take a picture of my front tire for you there only at -1.4 and wearing unevenly on the inside edge.
Ever notice the guys that roll around like this / \. Ever look at there tires? Ever notice that they go through tires like crazy?
hvyman;1715418 said:
This. Toe is the quickest way to wear your tires. But camber also wears whatever contact patch you have, down, pretty fast. Instead of the entire tread taking the punishment of rolling, sliding, braking friction, etc., only a small edge of the tire takes that abuse.
hvyman;1715418 said:
I roll around with my tires like this / \ and have no QUICKER wear then if they were like this | |
Again. Added camber will increase tire wear on the inside relative to the outside. However, the overal tire wear will be exactly the same as if you had 0* of camber. Basically your wearing the inside the same as if you had zero camber, but taking the wear off the outside. So the outside will wear slower then if you had 0* camber but the inside will stay the same.
Dude your completely wrong and need to go reevaluate your knowledge.
The only time the the outside edge of the tire is going to get use is during turning with -3* of camber. The inside edge of the tire and prolly the sidewall will be the contact patch.
I do this for a living not based off my jdm tyte hella flush car that gets driven 5 miles a day.
Ill even do some homework for you
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
And from that
In cars with double wishbone suspensions, camber angle may be fixed or adjustable, but in MacPherson strut suspensions, it is normally fixed. The elimination of an available camber adjustment may reduce maintenance requirements, but if the car is lowered by use of shortened springs, the camber angle will change. Excessive camber angle can lead to increased tire wear and impaired handling. Significant suspension modifications may correspondingly require that the upper control arm or strut mounting points be altered to allow for some inward or outward movement, relative to longitudinal centerline of the vehicle, for camber adjustment. Aftermarket plates with slots for strut mounts instead of just holes are available for most of the commonly modified models of cars.
-3* is considered excessive.
The only time the the outside edge of the tire is going to get use is during turning with -3* of camber. The inside edge of the tire and prolly the sidewall will be the contact patch.
I do this for a living not based off my jdm tyte hella flush car that gets driven 5 miles a day.
Ill even do some homework for you
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle
And from that
In cars with double wishbone suspensions, camber angle may be fixed or adjustable, but in MacPherson strut suspensions, it is normally fixed. The elimination of an available camber adjustment may reduce maintenance requirements, but if the car is lowered by use of shortened springs, the camber angle will change. Excessive camber angle can lead to increased tire wear and impaired handling. Significant suspension modifications may correspondingly require that the upper control arm or strut mounting points be altered to allow for some inward or outward movement, relative to longitudinal centerline of the vehicle, for camber adjustment. Aftermarket plates with slots for strut mounts instead of just holes are available for most of the commonly modified models of cars.
-3* is considered excessive.
This is exactly the moronic puke that defiles internet car forums.
Terbo boost... Your lack of understanding and comprehension is nearly mind blowing. Congrats.
Now please go read a book.
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Terbo boost... Your lack of understanding and comprehension is nearly mind blowing. Congrats.
Now please go read a book.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
Oh come on guys, we all know that the inside sidewall of the tire is by far the most grip-filled part of the rubber...
You ever wonder why the VIP crowd can't get traction in most cases? Perhaps *I'm* the one mistaken, but isn't that what tires are for, traction? :aigo:
You ever wonder why the VIP crowd can't get traction in most cases? Perhaps *I'm* the one mistaken, but isn't that what tires are for, traction? :aigo:
WOW well I been looking and found adjustable arms for the rear, but the front I cant find anything. Are there any upper arms that we can use like IS300 or MKIV arms I saw some JIC ones but they we're crazy money.
This whole thread is laughable.
As a rule, if moderators are telling you you're wrong, you should reevaluate you position. They weren't appointed moderators because they were clueless.
As a rule, if moderators are telling you you're wrong, you should reevaluate you position. They weren't appointed moderators because they were clueless.