Stinger thread....

[turbo joe]

It's about the same as the other case...-35% trim should be close enough to get it up and running. If you have a good tune already, I would run the trim up and down a bit -- a little above and a little below -- until it runs about the same as it did.

Different types of injectors aren't going to function exactly the same, so you're most likely going to need to do a little tuning...but you should be close.

You wouldn't want to cut the fuel in half when the injectors aren't twice as large.

 

[kanji1jz]

okay, so here is what i am up against. i obviously have a stinger... on a 1jz. it starts great in the morning and above 160 and below 120 coolant temp. but not inbetween. i tried messing with the fuel comp. but i'm not sure that it actually worked since the engine had cooled off.

 

[turbo joe]

It's only that 40* range that it doesn't start in? That's pretty odd. What if you started it cold (starts fine) and you got it to 140 and shut it off? Would it fire right back up?

You might try and discern whether the hard start is a too rich or too lean condition. Most of the time I have a car that's too rich...it'll start...or at least try to start right away and you'll have the rich smell and it'll run rough after starting. Too lean and it just won't start at all or it will backfire or pop.

The other thing to keep in mind is that starting/cranking fuel on a Stinger is tuned in the main map, so you might want to play around in that cell a bit. Just watch where it's at when you're cranking and play around with that number.

 

[gravesdu_99]

I probably should have asked this question before, but do I need to have my stock narrow band wired up. The stinger has the option of no narrow band and thats what its set on. If I do need it, does anybody have the wiring diagram for this to a stock 1jz.

 

[turbo joe]

I never connect anything to the ECU, lambda-wise. I don't really see a good reason to do it.

 

[10secdream]

Hey guys I am looking for a bit more fuel for my cold start up. I was wondering if I add fuel to the Post Start or the Fuel Temp Comp.

 

[turbo joe]

Does it start ok? What exactly is the problem?

If you want more starting fuel (while cranking), just add it to the appropriate cell(s) in the fuel map.

 

[FIL]

hey guys... what are your opinions on antilag setup / switches?

I'm planning setting it up on a relay so that you have 1 switch (manually switched) to enable the system, and then another switch (eg clutch / handbrake - switched as part of normal driving) that switches the input on the Stinger...

Has anyone else set their system up like this, and regardless of how your is set up, how do you trigger the actual antilag event? Clutch switch? Handbrake switch? Programmed an eprom based system to read the speed sensor output and trigger a relay at 5kmh?

Would like to get as many different ideas as possible, not just the easiest ones, but also the really weird ones that might take a bit of effort to get right, but might also give a better result...

 

[10secdream]

Does it start ok? What exactly is the problem?

If you want more starting fuel (while cranking), just add it to the appropriate cell(s) in the fuel map.

The car starts just fine but it takes about 2 cranks to get it going. I would prefer not to add fuel into the map because once the car is warm it idles perfectly and would prefer to keep it that way.

 

[10secdream]

Hey has anyone noticed with version 4 that the soft rev does not actually hold a value no matter how many times you save it? Also I noticed that the 2 step disables and sets the rpm value to zero every time I turn off the ecu no matter how many times I try to write it.

 

[turbo joe]

The car starts just fine but it takes about 2 cranks to get it going. I would prefer not to add fuel into the map because once the car is warm it idles perfectly and would prefer to keep it that way.

You don't add fuel where it's idling, you add it where it's cranking. It doesn't idle and crank in the same cells...it cranks at/near atmospheric pressure at a few hundred RPM and idles at a lower pressure at around 1000.

If you want to add cranking fuel, the main map is where you do it.

 

[gravesdu_99]

Mine cranks at about 200-240. I'm not sure if I need to add fuel or take it away though. I have a really hard time getting the car to start. It just keeps cranking and wanting to start. No back firing, but I also just have the downpipe on, could this be part of the problem. I get it started once and the car will continue to start. So basically I'm having problems with my cold start. how much fuel should I add at a time, I'm not sure what a big jump in fuel would be.

 

[turbo joe]

Mine cranks at about 200-240. I'm not sure if I need to add fuel or take it away though. I have a really hard time getting the car to start. It just keeps cranking and wanting to start. No back firing, but I also just have the downpipe on, could this be part of the problem. I get it started once and the car will continue to start. So basically I'm having problems with my cold start. how much fuel should I add at a time, I'm not sure what a big jump in fuel would be.

Just add one or two at a time in that cell and try it. You'll know pretty quickly if it helps.

Just remember that you only get one truly cold start every 6-8 hours. Once you start it...or crank it for a while, it's not a cold start anymore. There's some heat and some fuel in the cylinder (even if it doesn't show in the water), and that changes things.

 

[bigaaron]

If you don't have any cold idle valve or idle speed control installed, cold starts will be a little difficult. Are you saying that you're putting 240 in one of the squares on the map? :aigo: I have never had to put any more then 100 in any square on the map, so you are probably flooding it which is why it will not start.

 

[turbo joe]

If you don't have any cold idle valve or idle speed control installed, cold starts will be a little difficult. Are you saying that you're putting 240 in one of the squares on the map? :aigo: I have never had to put any more then 100 in any square on the map, so you are probably flooding it which is why it will not start.

I'm pretty sure he's talking about 200-240 RPM to ID the cell.

If it's too rich, it will never start...or blow out black smoke when it does start. He was saying that it would start after it cranked for a while...that means that it's just a little too lean deal, because it'll start with a little heat. A valve is more of a convenience...they'll start fine without a valve, you just have to set the idle up a little if you want it to start without giving it any throttle.

 

[bigaaron]

I do agree, I had one on my own car with no idle valve and it idled just fine, but then again.... I tuned it to idle just fine

 

[gravesdu_99]

On the idle control valve. I plugged the HUGE port, and then I connected the smaller port to the intake. Is this allowing the valve to work or should I have the Huge port connected some where, and if so where.

On another note. This is exactly what is going on. If I take marks 440 map and trim it by -35% for my 682cc injectors. And the car won't even make an attempt to start. So I went back to marks map and turn the car over I will get a little gurgle out of it. Then I turn the car off and on to put fuel to the injectors and after some time I can get the car to start.

 

[bigaaron]

You will probably want a wideband to get it running in the beginning, even though TurboJoe cringes when someone says that :biglaugh: You are not going to randomly put in numbers and have it run, you need to lean it out if its rich (you'll smell it if it's rich), or add fuel if it's lean. If you keep running it super rich like that you could foul the plugs and then it's going to miss. See if you can get a friend to help out that has done tuning on a standalone before, it sounds like your getting frusterated and going in circles with the adjustments, but someone with experience could have it idling perfect in 5 minutes, without a basemap.

 

[turbo joe]

You don't need a wideband to know if your motor starts...and you already have a map. It WAS running previously on that map, correct?.

If you had it running previously..or if you know that it's a good map, just move the trim up and down until it starts and runs well on the new injectors. If it won't start and the plugs are dry and it won't start, try adding 5% trim (or use -30 from the original map) and see if it starts. If it still doesn't start and the plugs are dry, add more positive (or use less negative from the original map). If the plugs are wet, then take away more trim. Is it not starting from being too rich or too lean?

You just need to figure out the trim number that will scale your map up and down to get you close. Get it running nice by using the trim (super easy), then worry about what it does at full throttle.

A Lambda sensor tells you the oxygen level of a running engine and infers the air/fuel ratio. It's not a smog sniffer (gas analyzer) that samples air and tells you the components. You need to have the car running properly to use one...and it's not going to help you get it started.

 

[gravesdu_99]

You don't need a wideband to know if your motor starts...and you already have a map. It WAS running previously on that map, correct?.

If you had it running previously..or if you know that it's a good map, just move the trim up and down until it starts and runs well on the new injectors. If it won't start and the plugs are dry and it won't start, try adding 5% trim (or use -30 from the original map) and see if it starts. If it still doesn't start and the plugs are dry, add more positive (or use less negative from the original map). If the plugs are wet, then take away more trim. Is it not starting from being too rich or too lean?

You just need to figure out the trim number that will scale your map up and down to get you close. Get it running nice by using the trim (super easy), then worry about what it does at full throttle.

A Lambda sensor tells you the oxygen level of a running engine and infers the air/fuel ratio. It's not a smog sniffer (gas analyzer) that samples air and tells you the components. You need to have the car running properly to use one...and it's not going to help you get it started.

That makes a lot of sense with the lambda turbo Joe.

I havn't taken the plugs out after I try to start it, but before I even try to start it. I take them out and clean them because they are fouled and very black from the map that I'm running.

I'm probably the one of the first people with standalone within an hour if not more of where I live, rednecks everywhere with camaros and firebirds. But there is a shop about an hour and a half away that I'm going to probably take it to and have them weld up an intercooler kit for me and dyno tune the car. I would just like to get it running by myself out of pride. As far as I know, they have the only dyno within 3 hours.