Poor motor oil selection and excessive temperatures in rebuilt 7m

[Beefy_Heafy]

hey guys sorry no updates in a while. ive installed all the components and its looking awesome. welded up custom brackets for the remote filter and thermostat and welded them all into place on the chassis. looks really good. made up some custom brackets for the intercooler also and its all really solid. hopefully will do up a guide on what i have done here to make it easier for others doing the same thing.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

Okay so ive installed all the aforementioned bits and pieces that jdub recommended to me. I have filled the engine with castrol edge 0w-40 oil. It holds good oil pressure when the engine is being revved. It has a .7bar increase per 1000rpm with about a 4.5-5 bar max when oil is hot (90-95degrees C) which came about after about 4 or 5 wot pulls through 2nd and 3rd gear. however at this hot oil temp the idle oil pressure drops right down to around .3bar at the 650rpm idle. as it is cooled off a bit to a regular running temp (oil 85-90c) I see a idle of .5-.7bar. Is this lowish idle pressure acceptable or should i switch to the castrol edge 10w60. there are some good oils from penrite also. their "sin0" 5w-50 weight synthetic oil has cst values that fall right in between the 2 castrol choices this may be a good option also.
Also the engine oil temp takes a long time to come up to a good operating temp about 10min of normal town driving before it reaches 80degrees C. It doesn't seem to get higher than this unless i give it some throttle.

 

[jdub]

Take a look at this and tell me what you think

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4


If you are going to run a 10W-60, the bearing clearances need to be opened up a bit to handle an oil that thick. You will be pumping a fluid with very high viscosity cold (think honey) - what do you think your oil flow will be like? Especially considering the "problem" is at idle with virtually zero load on the motor. You do have an accumulator to assist flow cold - that will help when using a high viscosity oil.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

Yeah according to the TSRM things are within acceptable levels. I was worried that the situation may have changed due to my larger main bearing clearances (.0025inch) i defiantly want to stick with the 0w-40 as the idea of honey thick oil when cold sounds pretty scary.

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Hows this engine running now? still any heat issues?

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

Hey Wiseco. Its running awesome. With accusump and all other oil gear in its seeing awesome pressures. The overheating issue was caused by my old blocked catalytic converter causing the turbine housing on the turbo to heat up all my oil and water. With the new cat and inter cooler its making shiteloads more power. Recorded on my butt dyno ;p

 

[wiseco7mgt]

Good to hear it's all running well, are you still on the stock ecu with the aftermarket turbo? What are you tuning with?

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

hey yeah still running factory ecu. which is pretty good, i havent yet had to change out to after market management, It handles all the mods pretty well. It has a fuel cut defender so i can run higher boost and im using an apexi avc-r boost controller although im just running .8bar on the turbos actuator at the moment. Watching the a/f ratios on the gauge as i go through the rev range it stays in the green on boost. drops down just a bit as it comes onto boost but gives it heaps of fuel after that. Tuning wise ive set it to 8 degrees btdc for safety and it hasn't knocked or anything as far as i can tell. Waiting to get it on a dyno to put it up to 1.2bar of boost which is what i want to run and then wind in timing to suit. Aftermarket management is on my wishlist tho Have to fix my transmission first. It stated grating when in 2nd and 3rd gear with even the most gentle push of the accelerator. no sound on decel or in the other gears. looks like the lower shaft in the gear set is moving forward under load and colliding with something from the top. it looks as thought the plate that seals the main bearing and input shaft may be worn and allowing this to happen :s drama

 

[Moy]

OP: which valve did you end up going with?

Also, @ Ian: if I were to use this http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/AccusumpEPCValves/Canton_Accusumps , I'm assuming I'd have to use the toggle switch to open the valve while the engine is off?

Also which would be the better option, the one I posted above or this one (that you posted earlier in the thread): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-23908/?rtype=10 ?

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

hey moy. i went with the 35-40psi electronic valve kit from summit racing. although i dont use the hobbs pressure switch i just run the whole unit on a missle switch in the car wired up to acc2.
so when i get in i turn the car to on. flick the switch on to open the accusump, get oil pressure. then start engine.
when i park the car i flick the valve switch to off, rev the car to make about 2 bar oil pressure (the valve is 1 way when off and will fill the accusump but not let it discharge) which is a good amount of pressure to prime the engine with. then i turn the engine off.

 

[Moy]

Beef, are you running a check valve in your oil system so that the pressurization from the Accusump doesn't back against the oil pump?

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

i was gonna put one in but they were freaking expensive. There is a anti drain back valve in most reputable oil filters. That will act as a check valve and does well im my system. if it didn't the car wouldn't register oil pressure very well when the accusump primes the bearings. But i might get one when i get some spare cash incase it makes a difference. and im a sucker for anodised fittings