Group A's group a rebuild
- Thread starter group a supra
- Start date
GrpA: Beautiful work!
I'm still waiting to see where/how you're running the 4" back into the GT42!
I'm still waiting to see where/how you're running the 4" back into the GT42!
ij thanks im glad you like it all will become clear as we get closer to the intercooler but first i have to order it .
ITS GOING TO BE BIG VERY BIG :evil2:
ITS GOING TO BE BIG VERY BIG :evil2:
no ive checked it will fit about as tight as the turbo was hoping to order it next month rad will be where it is:biglaugh:
Re: group a's gpa rebuild
yeah, it should work....my core is 30x14x4.5,and i got her to fit....and since yours shoudl fit between the framerails, it should go no problem. Hopefully you'll be left with more of a bumper than i was....
yeah, it should work....my core is 30x14x4.5,and i got her to fit....and since yours shoudl fit between the framerails, it should go no problem. Hopefully you'll be left with more of a bumper than i was....
slow your right there but i kinda like the look of yours :naughty:
6" deep one will flow 1350cfm so it should be about right for the job :evil2:
6" deep one will flow 1350cfm so it should be about right for the job :evil2:
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
I think with cores that size, the front bumper/reinforcement bar is not needed for crash protection. The huge size of the core is an excellent impact absorber, and will crush and slow the car down pretty good I'd think. (Especially if you use the stock frame horn mounting points like the old impact bar did, tying the front frame rails together.)
I'm using a smaller FMIC, but have the oil cooler welded up to the end tanks. (About 1/2 inch of attached metal on each tank, otherwise the oil cooler is 1/2 inch away from the intercooler so there should be minimal heat transfer. Also the cooler is on top, and behind of the FMIC, so heat rises, and airflow should be taking any heat away from the FMIC v/s heat soaking it from the hot oil cooler.
If I had just cut the bumper out of the way, it all would have fit in there no problem, but I wanted to maintain what I could of the bumper. I've since realized that to get more airflow over this, the bumper is going to have to be modified, but I want to try and keep the external "look" stock, and undercut the cover/impact bar to make it a bottem breather. It should draw more air up and over the core/cooler yet not look like it has some huge FMIC on there. (Sleeper aspect of my car is somewhat important to me.)
It is tempting to just ditch the setup I have, and go with a huge 4" thick core. (6 inches is even better, and provide better ground clearance due to a lower overall height needed to flow the same amount of air.) That being said, I'm nowhere near exceeding the 750cfm rating of the core I have now. (1350 is awesome.)
One thing to keep in mind. You do need some air for the radiator/condensor. I'm running my AC, and I have used a stock oil cooler for the PS system. I have a fluidyne radiator, and in traffic, with the AC on, the stock fan(s) are not getting the job done. (This is 103f temps.) I changed out the clutch on the fan, but I think the one I got is not much better than the one I had. (New they are too much ) The car does not overheat at any speed so far. (With the lower cover in place. W/O the cover, it did climb slightly at over 100mph, but I stopped since I really don't want to overheat the car.
Are any of you guys going to run a custom air dam or splitter/defuser type front undercover? I'm still kicking around the idea, and with the bottem breather mod to the front bumper, it would help to force more air through the radiators/coolers than without it. (And it should make the car more stable at higher speeds too.)
I'm using a smaller FMIC, but have the oil cooler welded up to the end tanks. (About 1/2 inch of attached metal on each tank, otherwise the oil cooler is 1/2 inch away from the intercooler so there should be minimal heat transfer. Also the cooler is on top, and behind of the FMIC, so heat rises, and airflow should be taking any heat away from the FMIC v/s heat soaking it from the hot oil cooler.
If I had just cut the bumper out of the way, it all would have fit in there no problem, but I wanted to maintain what I could of the bumper. I've since realized that to get more airflow over this, the bumper is going to have to be modified, but I want to try and keep the external "look" stock, and undercut the cover/impact bar to make it a bottem breather. It should draw more air up and over the core/cooler yet not look like it has some huge FMIC on there. (Sleeper aspect of my car is somewhat important to me.)
It is tempting to just ditch the setup I have, and go with a huge 4" thick core. (6 inches is even better, and provide better ground clearance due to a lower overall height needed to flow the same amount of air.) That being said, I'm nowhere near exceeding the 750cfm rating of the core I have now. (1350 is awesome.)
One thing to keep in mind. You do need some air for the radiator/condensor. I'm running my AC, and I have used a stock oil cooler for the PS system. I have a fluidyne radiator, and in traffic, with the AC on, the stock fan(s) are not getting the job done. (This is 103f temps.) I changed out the clutch on the fan, but I think the one I got is not much better than the one I had. (New they are too much
) The car does not overheat at any speed so far. (With the lower cover in place. W/O the cover, it did climb slightly at over 100mph, but I stopped since I really don't want to overheat the car. Are any of you guys going to run a custom air dam or splitter/defuser type front undercover? I'm still kicking around the idea, and with the bottem breather mod to the front bumper, it would help to force more air through the radiators/coolers than without it. (And it should make the car more stable at higher speeds too.)
slow66 where did you get that intercooler from looks familiar in core size
adjuster we have already lost front and rear bumper inserts (crash protectors) any way on mine we are going for as light as possible all round in the quest for street car quick quarters but i will be putting the stength back in in other ways roll cage etc so that shouldnt be issue
as for 1350 cfms going to that size as 4" pipe work from turbo through cooler and also tb so it would be shame to have smaller cooler that is not up to the job
in regards to heating i will go electric water pump adjustable range so again that might solve your problem also :icon_conf
adjuster we have already lost front and rear bumper inserts (crash protectors) any way on mine we are going for as light as possible all round in the quest for street car quick quarters but i will be putting the stength back in in other ways roll cage etc so that shouldnt be issue
as for 1350 cfms going to that size as 4" pipe work from turbo through cooler and also tb so it would be shame to have smaller cooler that is not up to the job
in regards to heating i will go electric water pump adjustable range so again that might solve your problem also :icon_conf
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Hmm, more flow at idle speeds with the electric pump might just do it, and you remove the drag on the motor at high speeds when you do not really need 6500rpm of drive speed on the water pump. Nice idea.
Is the pump temp based, or are there other parameters like engine rpm or boost levels? If you could "Pre cool" your engine just before you make a run for example by dropping the coolant temp to 160f v/s the normal at 180f? Just a thought. (Don't want to run at 160 all the time, you lose some gas mileage at the colder temps IIRC.)
I think the V8 pumps I have looked at just flow at a pre-set rate all the time.
To replace your stock pump, are you just going to leave one there with no impeller to maintain the pully location and fan drive, or are you going to block off the pump location with a plate and define your own pully and belt routing setup?
Is the pump temp based, or are there other parameters like engine rpm or boost levels? If you could "Pre cool" your engine just before you make a run for example by dropping the coolant temp to 160f v/s the normal at 180f? Just a thought. (Don't want to run at 160 all the time, you lose some gas mileage at the colder temps IIRC.)
I think the V8 pumps I have looked at just flow at a pre-set rate all the time.
To replace your stock pump, are you just going to leave one there with no impeller to maintain the pully location and fan drive, or are you going to block off the pump location with a plate and define your own pully and belt routing setup?
going to use davies craig pump
flows 20-110 litres min (300-1650 gall hour)
dash board controller set temp at what you want when you want
and will block of the current hole
nice at least dont need thermostat
combine this with fly rad and twin fans it will be as good as it can get you might say. :naughty:
flows 20-110 litres min (300-1650 gall hour)
dash board controller set temp at what you want when you want
and will block of the current hole
nice at least dont need thermostat
combine this with fly rad and twin fans it will be as good as it can get you might say. :naughty:
My first Water to Air IC had a small Davies Craig pump on it but the new big one uses a Bosch pump!
I've looked at the DC EWP's a few times but like the big arse Engine fan I just bought for summer in traffic!
I've looked at the DC EWP's a few times but like the big arse Engine fan I just bought for summer in traffic!
yes but we are both building different machines so fan suits yours sorry big arse fan suits yours aussie pump mine so same car different machines same outcome proper car:biglaugh: