EMS Stinger 8860/6860 1JZ Base settings and ECU help needed. :(

[bigaaron]

The dwell works well at around 2.1 ms. Toyota ignitors set their own dwell, so you just want to make sure you don't have way too long or too short of a pulse width. If you set it over 2.5ms, the ignition system will not want to rev over about 5k rpm.

 

[viperkillertt]

The dwell works well at around 2.1 ms. Toyota ignitors set their own dwell, so you just want to make sure you don't have way too long or too short of a pulse width. If you set it over 2.5ms, the ignition system will not want to rev over about 5k rpm.

Thanks for the tidbit. We tried just about everything, but i think the last few rounds we had it set to about 3ms. I will try 2.1 the next time i work on her. I wasn't able to get to 1k, so it wasnt a reving issue.


Does anyone know why all of these maps that i have worked with all have 3 ignitors in the stock settings. I cant get it to run on that setting, only one ignitor.

 

[mikeymkll7mgte]

Im not sure if its the dwell settings or if its trying to fire them too much or what its doing. Like josh said, i think the highest i went was 3ms. But like aaron said, the ignitor sets it own dwell, so its a matter of getting the right "pulse width", if you can call it that, to the igntor.

Josh-- do a screen shot of the ecu settings and post it up if you can. Maybe we are missing something that someone else might be able to see.

 

[viperkillertt]

Josh-- do a screen shot of the ecu settings and post it up if you can. Maybe we are missing something that someone else might be able to see.

This is the most recent one we tried. The engine was clearly running on 2 cylinders.


This is the map i recieved today from Pernilongo nd haven't tried yet.


The maps have a few differences. The one i got today had no static teeth, which doesnt make sense, but i might try.
The trigger pull up resistor is on, instead of off.

Please send me any suggestions or comments you might notice.

I also zipped up both files in the EMS format for people running the EMS tuning software. They are attached below.

-Josh

 

[figgie]

Viper or Mikey

any way to get a video or SOUND file? Are you sure it is not ONE cylinder missing? In these cars, one cylinder missing sounds like the motor is falling and it just rumbles badly.

shame I am not familiar with the stinger software. Satic timing tooth. Is that the cam SYNC signal in most other EMS?

 

[10secdream]

I don't know if this will help any but here is how I have my Stinger setup.

 

[bigaaron]

On the first basemap posted above:
It should be on 6 ignitors for sequential ignition, right now it's set like you are running one ignitor and a distributor! 3.5ms dwell is way too high, should be 2.1ms. Rev limiter is at 149rpm LOL! It's not going to make much boost if you can't rev it over 149rpm! The trigger wheel should be set at 24 teeth. Pull up resistors should be off, but it would run either way.
You have a sync sensor, not a 24-1 (missing tooth) crank trigger wheel, so the static timing tooth should be set at 0, sync sensor set at YES. Neither basemap you posted would get close to starting the car.


I say this with no disrespect intended.....
Have you tried reading the manual that comes with the 6860 software, and try to actually understand what any of the functions or settings actually do? All this is really "standalones 101" kinda stuff, and it's all explained in detail in a file that came with the software you already have. Honestly, shut the ignition off on the car, go inside the house, and spend a few nights reading up on all the aspects of wiring and adjusting a standalone ecu. Most of the time you will just get more confused asking questions on a forum like "why will my car not run with the 6860?" :biglaugh: I had never tuned or wired up a standalone in my life when I first read the manual that came with the Stinger software. I tought myself the whole thing from their instructions, plus a little research on the web, and very soon after I had it running on my 7M and a 1JZ. All the basemaps in the world will not help you understand all the functions and what they do.

 

[10secdream]

I completely agree with bigaaron. You need to sit down and actually read the manual. I had no idea what a standalone was or how to set it up but I read through the manual and made sure I understood everything. Since then I have played with the software and see how my car reacted. I have since tuned my own car and put down 500whp on the dyno.

There really is no substitute for knowledge. The more time you spend learning and researching the better your understanding and the smoother things will go.

 

[mikeymkll7mgte]

Aaron- I did not know there was a manual included in the software that came with it. If i would have, believe me, that would have been my first place to look. I know that post was more directed towards Josh though. :icon_bigg I could not tell you how many hours i have spent reading the Megasquirt manuals. I know that system all too well. My friends all come to me when they have a problem, the first thing i ask is did they read the manual?

Back on track here-
We pulled the coil packs to watch them fire last night, and by trial and error, came up with using almost exactly what you said. We did change the dwell, rev limiter, and a bunch more settings and got it to spark like the stock computer. Put the coil packs back in, and i looked over the fuel and spark map briefly to make sure it looked like it might work. Tried starting it, but it didnt fire. It would try and catch a little after you let off the key, but thats it. I did not have time to check injectors. It was late. That will be the next thing we do.

Do these injectors settings sound right to everyone? --
multi port 720
Injector ohms- 10-16

I dont know what other settings control the injectors, as i have not read the manual. :3d_frown:

I will be reading through the manual the next time i play with it.

 

[Pernilongo]

On the first basemap posted above:
It should be on 6 ignitors for sequential ignition, right now it's set like you are running one ignitor and a distributor! 3.5ms dwell is way too high, should be 2.1ms. Rev limiter is at 149rpm LOL! It's not going to make much boost if you can't rev it over 149rpm! The trigger wheel should be set at 24 teeth. Pull up resistors should be off, but it would run either way.
You have a sync sensor, not a 24-1 (missing tooth) crank trigger wheel, so the static timing tooth should be set at 0, sync sensor set at YES. Neither basemap you posted would get close to starting the car.


I say this with no disrespect intended.....
Have you tried reading the manual that comes with the 6860 software, and try to actually understand what any of the functions or settings actually do? All this is really "standalones 101" kinda stuff, and it's all explained in detail in a file that came with the software you already have. Honestly, shut the ignition off on the car, go inside the house, and spend a few nights reading up on all the aspects of wiring and adjusting a standalone ecu. Most of the time you will just get more confused asking questions on a forum like "why will my car not run with the 6860?" :biglaugh: I had never tuned or wired up a standalone in my life when I first read the manual that came with the Stinger software. I tought myself the whole thing from their instructions, plus a little research on the web, and very soon after I had it running on my 7M and a 1JZ. All the basemaps in the world will not help you understand all the functions and what they do.

I didnt have the manual with this ECU. I guess you didn't put it in my car when i picked it up. So technically the manual for this ECU is with you. i did sent him the serial cable a little later. i would include the manual if i had it in my possession.

 

[Doward]

Verify your wiring. Do you have the coils / injectors wired up in batch, or all individual sequential?

 

[viperkillertt]

Verify your wiring. Do you have the coils / injectors wired up in batch, or all individual sequential?

Yeah, we did verify our wiring last night. With 6 ignitors, they run properly outside of the car, but everything is not synced up when the coils are reinstalled. It simply doesnt run once inside the motor. Only when 1 ignitor was put in, did it actually run. I am going to do some more tweaking and see if i can find something out.

 

[bigaaron]

The latest software with e-manual included can be downloaded from:
www.fuel-injection.com Go to the Australian site link and download the latest software. The manual is one of the files that you download with the software, go to the folder where you install the software and you will see it.
There is no paper manual, but the e-manual is about 100 pages and is extremely detailed. There's also a help tab at the top of the tuning screen.

I completely agree with bigaaron. You need to sit down and actually read the manual. I had no idea what a standalone was or how to set it up but I read through the manual and made sure I understood everything. Since then I have played with the software and see how my car reacted. I have since tuned my own car and put down 500whp on the dyno.

There really is no substitute for knowledge. The more time you spend learning and researching the better your understanding and the smoother things will go.

Now that's what I'm talking about! :thumbup:

It's really not as complicated as it seems if you understand each function and how it affects how the engine runs.

I didnt have the manual with this ECU. I guess you didn't put it in my car when i picked it up. So technically the manual for this ECU is with you. i did sent him the serial cable a little later. i would include the manual if i had it in my possession.

I never said there was a paper manual, it's in the software download.

 

[viperkillertt]

The latest software with e-manual included can be downloaded from:
www.fuel-injection.com Go to the Australian site link and download the latest software. The manual is one of the files that you download with the software, go to the folder where you install the software and you will see it.
There is no paper manual, but the e-manual is about 100 pages and is extremely detailed. There's also a help tab at the top of the tuning screen.






Now that's what I'm talking about! :thumbup:

It's really not as complicated as it seems if you understand each function and how it affects how the engine runs.







I never said there was a paper manual, it's in the software download.

Dude, the Australian site is 10x better. The US one sucks!

 

[mikeymkll7mgte]

I was told no manual. I went into this blind knowing nothing about this system, and was told the settings and maps that were downloaded were supposed to work as they came from a running 1jz. Like i said, i know MS inside and out, because i read the manuals. I have never touched the manual for this system. Based on my knowledge of ms, I was able to decipher some of what i was looking at, but most of the settings were different than what i was used to. Now that i have a manual to look at, im sure i could have had it running in less than 5 min. Its one of those things, if you dont give me all the pieces, i cant complete the puzzle.

Ok now that im done ranting.... Not towards anyone, just in general.

As for the injectors, they appear to be wired in pairs just like stock. There are only 3 injector wires that go into the engine harness. I know this as i have wired up a ms for this same 1jz, and because i looked last night. When i have time i will verify that the injectors are firing. I will also look at the manual to see what the injector settings need to be for 6 injectors wired in pairs.

 

[viperkillertt]

This is the closest ecu setup. But still doesn't work at all.


I am very baffled. I keep trying different combination's of settings. I have tried about 5 or more fuel maps, just to see if it will just turn on. Nothing will just turn on the car.

One other very strange thing is that the tach signal jumps up and down from 0-2k. This is on my avc-r. Everything reads fine on the computer though. about 220rpm when cranking.

 

[quake]

This is the closest ecu setup. But still doesn't work at all.


I am very baffled. I keep trying different combination's of settings. I have tried about 5 or more fuel maps, just to see if it will just turn on. Nothing will just turn on the car.

One other very strange thing is that the tach signal jumps up and down from 0-2k. This is on my avc-r. Everything reads fine on the computer though. about 220rpm when cranking.

did not read the entire thread but i assume after installing the unit. You have verified spark for all the coils, and the correct firing order. Also check all injectors are working. If these are correct pull a plug and look in the cyl to make sure it is not flooded. You won't be able to just turn the key and have it run right. You will need to spend time with someone who knows how to tune or just pay for one.

 

[mikeymkll7mgte]

It not flooding. We can try starting it, pull the standalone plug, plug in the stock ecu and it fires right up with no hesitation or anything. My GUESS is that the injectors are not firing as they should, or the timing is way off somehow. Both of which i still have not had the time to verify. Oh and on my very first MS install, i built my own fuel and spark maps, and it started and idled almost perfect the first time i turned the key. :naughty:

 

[Pernilongo]

It not flooding. We can try starting it, pull the standalone plug, plug in the stock ecu and it fires right up with no hesitation or anything. My GUESS is that the injectors are not firing as they should, or the timing is way off somehow. Both of which i still have not had the time to verify. Oh and on my very first MS install, i built my own fuel and spark maps, and it started and idled almost perfect the first time i turned the key. :naughty:

Did you try changing injector resistance? i mean measuring them first.

 

[viperkillertt]

Did you try changing injector resistance? i mean measuring them first.

Cant change it. Mine are high resistance, and it is set to that. You had 550s in yours, right? I have 380s still. THe setting is 10-16ohm. I am just trying to get it to run so i know it works before i disassemble the engine and rebuild the turbo system with the GT35R i have. It is very frustrating because it should have been able to simply run when reinstalled on my engine. I never meant to tune it with this configuration. I just need to know the ECU works properly before i take my engine apart. I have run 6 or 7 maps with all sorts of fuel settings including the two Aaron made at driftmotion. Nothing is working Mike and I have tried ever posible ECU setting and still nothing. Car runs perfectly on stock ECU.
And yes, i did measure them. I believe they were 14.5 or 15.5ohm. Something like that. It was above 10, so i knew it was high resistance.