Don't worry you aren't. In fact what is stopping me is probably the same thing stopping anyone else from doing it lol...
jetjock;1822385 said:Use the setup that's already in the car.
T3rril79;1823407 said:Speaking of cfm doesn't anyone know the cfm rating of the stock clutch fan?
From what I gathered from the wall of text, it seems to not account for volume. If you can't get much heat out because of the flow speed through the heat exchanger, you can get more heat out by increasing how much air gets through it. Hence, high speed fans work well in our case. May not get much heat pulled out in each molecule, but you're getting a lot of molecules moved.CyFi6;1874447 said:This is essentially what I would think would be the case. If too much airflow will actually reduce heat transfer, what is it in the above statement that is incorrect?
al lewis;1891923 said:I know a lil time has past on this thread but how do you know that your clutch fan is going bad? is there anyway to check it. I've purchased a new one since the one on my car his never been changed i don't have any overheating issues but better safe than sorry right should i just install the new one and call it a day or is there anyway to cheak if its going bad?
The clutch is thermostatic. It engages or disengages based on temperature. I've never seen any behavior to indicate otherwise. If I were to go out and dig my car out from under the snow, I would expect the fan to move pretty smoothly, seeing as how it's really cold, and there is no need for the fan to pull much air at all. There is no "engage" or "disengage" -- it's a variable amount based on the temperature of the clutch. The clutch doesn't know, or care if the engine is running, idle, or WOT. (Though while not spinning, some of the oil will go to the engagement section, this doesn't make much difference, since it needs to be spinning in order to actually DO anything.) There is a bi-metal coil (How it knows what temperature things are) which controls a valve for a silicone based oil. When cold, that valve is closed, and the fan spins more easily.satx88supra;1891939 said:The way that I found was by listening to the car when you crank it up. The clutch will engage for about 5-10 sec (you should hear the difference in sound when it disengages). The other way is by spinning the fan blade (while car is off). If the blade spins freely its bad. There should be a noticeable "brake" when you try and spin it.
Dan_Gyoba;1891951 said:If there is still very little force against the fan blade when it's hot, or there is no noticeable difference in force, then your fan clutch is also trash.