jdub;1821988 said:* Buy stock temp superstat
* Cut off jiggle valve
* Install with new gasket
* Be Happy!
can you explain further please? whats a superstat?
7MGTE fan clutch
- Thread starter aloshan
- Start date
can you explain further please? whats a superstat?
aloshan;1822015 said:
http://www.stant.com/Consumer-Products/Thermostats/SuperStat--Thermostat/
On par or better than Toyota factory.
The jiggle valve is a small metal shaft with a round end inside a hole on the thermostat face. Cutting it off allows a small flow through the stat at all times - very effective in bleeding air from the system. An old school trick
jdub;1822031 said:http://www.stant.com/Consumer-Products/Thermostats/SuperStat--Thermostat/
On par or better than Toyota factory.
The jiggle valve is a small metal shaft with a round end inside a hole on the thermostat face. Cutting it off allows a small flow through the stat at all times - very effective in bleeding air from the system. An old school trick
thanks ,just purchased the stant as well same price as the tridon one. have I been shafted with the high flow one from tridon? apparently it allows 30% more coolant flow , is this on par with electric superchargers and fake blow off valves or actually does something?
aloshan;1822038 said:
It kinda is on par with those. Keep in mind a thermostat is designed to regulate flow to the radiator to keep coolant temp at it's temp spec - that temp is what the engine was designed to operate at most efficiently. With a radiator that has factory thermal capacity - the extra flow does nothing if you exceed the thermal capacity of the radiator to shed the heat. With a aftermarket dual core radiator, you have plenty of thermal capacity - the extra flow does nothing because the stat will never fully open. Unless you live in a hot climate or push a high HP motor hard, the factory radiator has the thermal capacity as well
And, if you run with no thermostat (as JJ pointed out), the motor will never fully warm up and the ECU will stay in warm-up enrichment.
Or under load the coolant isn't resident long enough in the radiator to transfer it's heat and eventually the car overheats..
Thermostats are good mmkay
Thermostats are good mmkay
jdub;1822056 said:It kinda is on par with those. Keep in mind a thermostat is designed to regulate flow to the radiator to keep coolant temp at it's temp spec - that temp is what the engine was designed to operate at most efficiently. With a radiator that has factory thermal capacity - the extra flow does nothing if you exceed the thermal capacity of the radiator to shed the heat. With a aftermarket dual core radiator, you have plenty of thermal capacity - the extra flow does nothing because the stat will never fully open. Unless you live in a hot climate or push a high HP motor hard, the factory radiator has the thermal capacity as well
And, if you run with no thermostat (as JJ pointed out), the motor will never fully warm up and the ECU will stay in warm-up enrichment.
IJ.;1822066 said:Or under load the coolant isn't resident long enough in the radiator to transfer it's heat and eventually the car overheats..
Thermostats are good mmkay
thanks for the help guys , understand perfectly.
I ran an Electric water pump in series with the stock mechanical to cover the low Rpm lack of flow in hot weather/traffic and to fill in the pump cavitation at high Rpm.
IJ.;1822066 said:Or under load the coolant isn't resident long enough in the radiator to transfer it's heat and eventually the car overheats..
Thermostats are good mmkay
Bingo.
I still have a hard time wrapping my brain around this one. Have you seen this happen in practice? The longer the coolant is in the rad releasing heat, the longer the coolant is in the block absorbing heat. Seems that more flow would not hinder the ability to keep the engine cool, and higher coolant flow would make the capacity of the radiator and amount airflow the limiting factors. Would be interesting to see why more flow would cause an overheat.IJ.;1822066 said:Or under load the coolant isn't resident long enough in the radiator to transfer it's heat and eventually the car overheats..
Thermostats are good mmkay
Yes was very common in older engines I worked on, pull the T-stat and the thing would boil it's brains out.
Hmm, did a little googling. This little blurb here is interesting.
http://books.google.com/books?id=06...QXwtsmqAg&ved=0CDwQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q&f=false
Sounds a little far fetched, and judging by everything else I read in the preview of that book, seems to be some kind of advertisement for Evans cooling products, but nevertheless an interesting point to think about, something I have never heard before.
http://books.google.com/books?id=06...QXwtsmqAg&ved=0CDwQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q&f=false
Sounds a little far fetched, and judging by everything else I read in the preview of that book, seems to be some kind of advertisement for Evans cooling products, but nevertheless an interesting point to think about, something I have never heard before.
CyFi6;1822111 said:
Is this what you don't understand? If you touch very briefly a hot pan on a stove, versus holing your hand on the hot pan for a time, which way transfers more heat?
And aluminum does not transfer heat as well as copper/brass. Aluminum is to meet cafe standards only. Or weight reduction in a track car.
I understand what you are saying here, but my issue is that it only looks at half of the equation. The more time the water is in the radiator, the more time it has to let go of heat, but of course this also means the water will be in the block for a longer amount of time, which give it more time to pick up heat. I don't see how reducing the flow gains you any amount of cooling ability.Nick M;1822133 said:
Sure, reducing flow gives you a higher temp differential between the top of the radiator and the bottom of the radiator, but again like I said that's only half of the equation, considering that the cooling system is a closed loop.
Nick M;1822133 said:
Ahh finally someone agrees with me..LOL I have argued this point to people before to the point of them almost swinging punches and it turning into a brawl!! Any basic metals book tells you Copper/ Brass is more efficient at transferring heat, why can't some dumb shits get it!:: facepalm ::
If someone can provide a peer reviewed paper or thermal physics text book that backs up the claims of so-called "residence time" then I might believe there is some truth to it, but frankly, I am of the opinion it is nonsense. I have discussed this with our scientists here at work in our Computational Thermal Physics group and they claim there is no such concept.
You want as much laminar flow (i.e. without turbulence) through the system as you can get for best efficiency. In a closed cooling system, the total heat flow is dQ/dt = k * dV/dt * dT, so as the flow rate goes up, the temperature difference will go down for the same heat flow, and that means the temperature difference between coolant and air at the heat exchanger will be greater and hence more efficient.
Let me put this in the simplest terms, if residence time was real, why would a bigger radiator fan (flowing more air) cool better? We all know it does! Using the residence time argument, you would want a tiny fan so the air is flowing real slow so it will pick up all the heat. LOL
You want as much laminar flow (i.e. without turbulence) through the system as you can get for best efficiency. In a closed cooling system, the total heat flow is dQ/dt = k * dV/dt * dT, so as the flow rate goes up, the temperature difference will go down for the same heat flow, and that means the temperature difference between coolant and air at the heat exchanger will be greater and hence more efficient.
Let me put this in the simplest terms, if residence time was real, why would a bigger radiator fan (flowing more air) cool better? We all know it does! Using the residence time argument, you would want a tiny fan so the air is flowing real slow so it will pick up all the heat. LOL
I figured you would find your way here3p141592654;1822250 said:
. I believe JJ made a similar statement about airflow however, that running fans with too much CFM (very large electric or Tundra fan clutch in my case) would actually hinder heat removal to some extent, though I know you two disagreed on that. What do you think about that little snippet in the link I posted, does that sound plausible that a restrictor causes high pressure areas in the cooling system raising the boiling point? Only thing that doesn't make sense to me, is that if that were the case, as soon as the engine came back to idle and coolant flow was reduced (pump spinning slower), the coolant would begin to boil from all the local hot spots that now are under normal cooling system pressure.
Just to be clear, I'm no thermal expert. I can go talk to some down the hallway who are, but otherwise I'm just going on very creaky knowledge from my undergrad engineering physics classes.
Overall heat transfer efficiency is improved by moving the air against and then away from the exchange surface in a relatively brief time scale. Introducing turbulence is a very effective way of doing this. That said, I'm not so sure about the reference. While controlled turbulence is important in a heat exchanger, he seems to imply the more the merrier.
Overall heat transfer efficiency is improved by moving the air against and then away from the exchange surface in a relatively brief time scale. Introducing turbulence is a very effective way of doing this. That said, I'm not so sure about the reference. While controlled turbulence is important in a heat exchanger, he seems to imply the more the merrier.
CyFi6;1822208 said:
Feel free to instrument a loop cobbled together using a heater core, garden hose, small DC pump, heat source, and a variable speed fan. Go ahead, knock yourself out. Don't let me stop you...