To sharpen the point that JJ was poking with. How have you determined that the fan clutch is the cause of your overheating?
7MGTE fan clutch
- Thread starter aloshan
- Start date
aloshan;1821042 said:
Really? That's good, so now we know for sure it's the fan clutch.
Oh yeah- I was gonna ask- HOW did you determine that the fan clutch is your problem?
And on your extensive list of mods and upgrades, I didn't see anything about your cooling system.
I have to ask- What type of radiator and cap are you using? Seeing as you have thousands of dollars in engine management, and upgraded internal parts, I assume you're on an upgraded rad?
I have to ask- What type of radiator and cap are you using? Seeing as you have thousands of dollars in engine management, and upgraded internal parts, I assume you're on an upgraded rad?
onemancrew;1821489 said:
I can , been thinking about this as I cant seem to get a new one. Apparently its really easy , il just have to pick up some silicone oil for toyota)
supraguy@aol;1821519 said:
Yes I have an upgraded radiator , not sure of brand and type , but it definetly does the job. I have upgraded internal parts but certainly dont have thousands of dollars in engine management ( one day...
. Radiator cap is the one that came with the radiator. I can check the brand for you today and get back to you but its not a crappy chinese ebay one , I paid good money for it and the guy who bought and installed it for me only buys the best of the best and never settles for anything less.
www.4crawler.com/4x4/Docs/FanClutch.pdf
thanks for the link ,bookmarked!
Ps: my god Jess is gorgeous
Ok, well it does sound like you've got your cooling system sorted out.
Bear in mind though, that alot of aftermarket thermostats will 'stick' on occasion,
and cause temp spikes as well.
Also- if your AC condenser is blocked with bugs, etc., you won't get optimal airflow through the rad core.
PS- Do you have the oem fan shroud fitted to the rad?
Bear in mind though, that alot of aftermarket thermostats will 'stick' on occasion,
and cause temp spikes as well.
Also- if your AC condenser is blocked with bugs, etc., you won't get optimal airflow through the rad core.
PS- Do you have the oem fan shroud fitted to the rad?
supraguy@aol;1821560 said:
im replacing my theromstat with a high temp one , ordered and on the way
yes I have the oem fan shroud fitted to the rad but because of the radiator size(yes its overkill but i wanted to be sure) the shroud had to be cut
I will check my AC condenser this weekend to make sure its clean
thanks for the advice!
A few things...
That looks like a PWR radiator, and yes, they are quite good. Best on the market, IMHO. Even so, as JJ pointed out, there are several other factors that can cause overheating.
I've seen quite a few electric setups by now, and I've never seen one that moves as much air as the stock clutch fan without making at least as much noise. I've also never seen one that moves as much air without taking up at least as much room. I've heard LOTS of guys claim they have the electric fan that bends the rules, probably using pixie dust or unicorn hide, however, it seems all these guys live in areas with colder ambient temps, or don't drive in traffic, or have the fan installed on their storage shelf because their car doesn't run, and hasn't for years.
You want to buy a LOWER temperature thermostat, not higher.
Leaves collect *behind* the AC condenser, blocking airflow to the radiator, not in front of it. To check, pull the radiator back and look down to see if there is gunk in front of it.
The stock secondary e-fan in front of the radiator was only fitted to early model Mk3s.
The 10 blade fan isn't limited to GTE engines, it was also fitted to all cars in 'hot climates'. It was years before I saw one of the 'cool climate' fans.
That looks like a PWR radiator, and yes, they are quite good. Best on the market, IMHO. Even so, as JJ pointed out, there are several other factors that can cause overheating.
I've seen quite a few electric setups by now, and I've never seen one that moves as much air as the stock clutch fan without making at least as much noise. I've also never seen one that moves as much air without taking up at least as much room. I've heard LOTS of guys claim they have the electric fan that bends the rules, probably using pixie dust or unicorn hide, however, it seems all these guys live in areas with colder ambient temps, or don't drive in traffic, or have the fan installed on their storage shelf because their car doesn't run, and hasn't for years.
You want to buy a LOWER temperature thermostat, not higher.
Leaves collect *behind* the AC condenser, blocking airflow to the radiator, not in front of it. To check, pull the radiator back and look down to see if there is gunk in front of it.
The stock secondary e-fan in front of the radiator was only fitted to early model Mk3s.
The 10 blade fan isn't limited to GTE engines, it was also fitted to all cars in 'hot climates'. It was years before I saw one of the 'cool climate' fans.
GrimJack;1821850 said:
I would agree with this in this situation, as aluminum large core radiators will transfer heat more efficiently than the factory unit.
Otherwise, you would want to hold the heated coolant in the radiator a bit longer(higher temp rating tstat) in order to giver the oem rad longer to exchange the heat to the passing air.
Does this logic sound correct?
random ? yes. shes just too damn fine.....te72;1821743 said:
GrimJack;1821850 said:
Yes Ive heard that its better to keep the stock fan as it doesnt free up much hp removing it anyway and more often then not offers inferior cooling performance
sorry I meant to say "high flow" thermostat, purchased this one here :
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120881663327?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Ive decided to rebuild my clutch fan based on this advice , however the only kind of oil I could get from Toyota is 10 000cst. I know they say to use between 3000 cst - 5000 cst , is this viscosity to high? ( i believe this is the viscosity used in the landcruiser) .
What effect would using this higher viscosity oil have? ie cool better? fan louder , robs more power from the engine etc.. ?
As a PWR owner with an electric fan setup (good luck fitting a JZ and much of an electric fan in with a PWR), I will say this: cooling is more about how much air you can pass through the radiator than it is about the size of the radiator. Think about this, if you have a giant radiator, but can't pull enough air through it (whether that be because your electric fan isn't big/powerful enough, or your fan clutch needs repair/replacement), what do you have? A giant heat sink.GrimJack;1821850 said:
Took a couple trips down to Vegas and Phoenix with my car, ended up having to put a manual switch on the fans because they wouldn't come on until it was too hot for the car to cool itself off on it's own. My car's cooling setup does NOT like hotter climates, but where I live, that's not a problem. We rarely see over 100°F here.
jetjock;1821984 said:
well then,would you be able to share your infinite knowledge with me and answer my question?It would be much more helpful then your last post :
Ive decided to rebuild my clutch fan based on this advice , however the only kind of oil I could get from Toyota is 10 000cst. I know they say to use between 3000 cst - 5000 cst , is this viscosity to high? ( i believe this is the viscosity used in the landcruiser) .
What effect would using this higher viscosity oil have? ie cool better? fan louder , robs more power from the engine etc.. ?