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2jz run sequential fuel injection while the 1jz is semi-sequential.

weren't you the one who convinced my cousin to buy that IS200 pumpkin for my mk3 diff?

Nice build. Can't wait to see it run again, those turbos are beast!

how can that be, if the gearbox is in the same location, same mount. It would be impossible to have it further back

I have the early crossmember and driftmotion jz swap bracket with the square motor mount and I've noticed that the engine is close to the rad than my 7m was. Gearbox is in the same location. Maybe the engine is a tad longer?

How are your engine/transmission mounts

I did, I also upgraded the grounds last year when I made the wiring harness. I have one on the block, head and intake manifold plus one chassis to neg battery directly

Replaced the starter, wasn't the starter. I've mesure the trigger voltage when I put the key to crank position and I'm only getting 8-9V instead of the 12V+ (without the big cable connected so that the starter wont spin). I might have to replace the trigger connector+wiring from the body harness...

I've been battling this issue recently with my mk3. 1jz 1989 with a R154. It started to refuse to crank over randomly when the engine is warm/hot. At first it was rare but now it's almost everytime the engine is hot. I redid the wiring harness last year, so i'm pretty confident the starter is...

Anything new happening with this?

Fixed dwell or you have rpm/load/voltage compensation. 1zz coil will discharge early to protect themselves if their dwell is set too high

I did that with my 1jz and the breather was a entry point for very hot engine bay air, idle would get very lean after idling for long in heavy traffic. Instead of playing with the MAT table in tunerstudio I just rerouted the IAC back to the intake and it made everything simpler.

sound systeme, battery relocation, fuel pump rewire, the big 3 upgrades to the fuse box, lube your camber bolt so they dont seize on the bushing sleeve

we saw 173rwhp this summer at a dyno event on a 88 7mgte R154, only mod was a 3" elbow and downpipe. On a mustang dyno mind you.

Oil coolers could help reduce the overall temp. I believe the electric fans are to blame.

I tested another igniter, no change in this engine behavior. I am at a lost here, I'm going to try and get a oscilloscope and verify the dwell time. If anyone has any idea or clue, throw me a bone here. Thanks

I have a ground strap from the block to the battery, a ground cable from the R154 to the chassis. I grounded my igniter and E1 at the intake manifold because I have a solid ground cable going to the battery. I'm going to test the igniter and report back.

1jz-gte from a jza70 in a ma70 1989. I was running a ms3pro, 800 sard injectors, stock ignition components including the igniter. I decided to make a new engine harness, swap the injectors for mk4 550cc(plus a resistor pack) and now I have a very very weak and orange spark. I can start the...

I was lucky and ended up finding some used parts that helped me but it still ended at around 3800$ but then you get to sell all the 7m bits and make a few $ back

cd009 6 speed come to mind to