Recent content by RedGT

I agree that the old school GM gaskets and seals were junk, but everyone used cork gaskets and such back in the day. But they havent used that stuff since like 1989. If GM decided to stop subleting parts manufaturing to the lowest bidder they wouldnt have nearly as many problems as they do.

If cost is your main concern I personally would think the 7M would be the best choice. Only because if it were me I would rebuild the 2JZ also, since it would obviously be used. And install lower compression ratio pistons. and then your going to need all the swap components.

Any quality RTV sealant will work, I myslef being a chevy tech used GM RTV.

Unless your doing a non turbo to turbo conversion its going to be better to rebuild your engine. your going to have to do the same things to the JDM engine as yours. When I got my JDM the head gasket was blown, turbo was locked up, head was warped, valves were leaking and probably more than...

I got the ebay ones. I bought the 3 piece set ( shift boot, ebrake, and console lid). They are black leather and look great. Much better than the old rotten stuff.

You need 3 basic things for a gasoline engine to run. spark, fuel and compression. check to see if you have spark, then check your fuel pressure. then compression test. Assuming you have ruled out all stupid reasons for a no start. It does crank right?

FC+LS6=badass N/A!

may want to check the fan too. If it has electric fans check to see if they come on, if you have a mechanical fan check to make sure its working properly.

Yep, its usually the shock load of a clutch dump or really agressive driving that will kill weaker transmissions. Just go to a WRX forum and check around for how they drive. They slip their trannys alot because they had 'glass transmissions'. I know I used to have one. I have a GTE on a W58 now...

Found someone selling a turbnetics turbo: t3/t4 turbonetics 57 trim. 2 3/4" inch inlet stage III .63 a/r exhaust $600 minimal to no shaft play and only couple thousand miles. Good deal? yay or nay? I dont know much about turbo a/r. What kind of spool should I see? Is it too big?

I never thought about the reversable clamps... maybe because I dont own any :biglaugh:. I may have tried it but its out now and I should have thought of cutting the bellhousing from the start. It would have saved me almost 2 hours of prying with no effect.

Yea Im a rare breed lol

Yup...prybar and wooden wedges as your gonna start opening the pressure plate and it will probably travel pretty far while staying under tension...wooden wedges will let you reposition the prybar without the clutch pulling the trans back to square 1. All I gotta say in this situation is...

I just cant get it... the pressure plate is just acting as a spring and is dampening my effort everytime I pry. I then unbolted the shift fork pivot, removed the TO bearing retainers and pushed the fork into the bellhousing to get a better look, or to perhaps unbolt the PP. I think I am going to...

oh well... a bad experience is a learning experience...