Recent content by IHI-RHC7

aftermarket bov?

I believe it's called an E-clip...

Have you connected pin E1 to Te1 on the diagnostic check connector and verified that you have no codes?

yeah, bad stuff. I'm had good luck with the block sealant though. You drain the entire system, flush ALL coolant out of the system, then mix this stuff in, let it cure for 24 hours, flush ALL the block sealant out, and then refill..

No worries ;) Anything new found?

It should run lean with a lex and stock injectors...

OOOH, FCD... But he would've seen that when wiring the S-AFC... I'd swap out your AFM electrics and see what happens. Also, the stock fpr with a walbro could hike the fuel pressure way up which would account for the rich condition, and the missing screw would account for the hitting 18 psi w/ no...

They're quite spendy from toyota... $90. ouch. I'd try slicing off the cracked part, and putting it back on. I've ran mine for years like that and not had a problem. I'm sure someone would sell/give you one for near nothing as they're useless once you upgrade your IC pipes. There's a full set...

I would never buy a used engine :3d_frown:. Unless my stock engine was hosed beyond repair, and I needed a fresh place to start a rebuild. Anyway, I'm betting on bhg on the exhaust side...

You checked the hose immediately after the turbo? They have a tendency to crack at the clamp. You can't see it unless you grab the hose beneath the turbo and squeeze it... Just a thought.

Let's discuss everything. Let's talk about why an FCD will blow up your car, why a short runner intake makes more top end power, etc... I'd still like to discuss timing and what and how it is that density has such a profound affect on the propagation of the flame front. I think the best way...

Let's further discuss flame front velocity in relation to charge density. OK, according to this, you would need to ignite a more dense charge earlier, to maintain MTBT. (because the burn will take longer, you need max cyl pressure to occur at the right geometric piston location) The problem I...

Working on a useful post in my spare time:icon_razz

knife edge, windage tray, dry sump, all reduce internal friction. I'm with Grim on the "our valvetrain=suck" category...

Is that your motor Grim? I'd suggest cracking a propane bottle (little campfire size with a torch fitting works well, or a bernzomatic brazing torch) and "washing" the intake down while it's running. Any fluctuation's in the idle speed will halp you pin point the location...