yeah, bad stuff.
I'm had good luck with the block sealant though. You drain the entire system, flush ALL coolant out of the system, then mix this stuff in, let it cure for 24 hours, flush ALL the block sealant out, and then refill..
OOOH, FCD...
But he would've seen that when wiring the S-AFC...
I'd swap out your AFM electrics and see what happens. Also, the stock fpr with a walbro could hike the fuel pressure way up which would account for the rich condition, and the missing screw would account for the hitting 18 psi w/ no...
They're quite spendy from toyota... $90. ouch.
I'd try slicing off the cracked part, and putting it back on. I've ran mine for years like that and not had a problem. I'm sure someone would sell/give you one for near nothing as they're useless once you upgrade your IC pipes.
There's a full set...
I would never buy a used engine :3d_frown:.
Unless my stock engine was hosed beyond repair, and I needed a fresh place to start a rebuild.
Anyway, I'm betting on bhg on the exhaust side...
You checked the hose immediately after the turbo? They have a tendency to crack at the clamp. You can't see it unless you grab the hose beneath the turbo and squeeze it...
Just a thought.
Let's discuss everything. Let's talk about why an FCD will blow up your car, why a short runner intake makes more top end power, etc... I'd still like to discuss timing and what and how it is that density has such a profound affect on the propagation of the flame front.
I think the best way...
Let's further discuss flame front velocity in relation to charge density.
OK, according to this, you would need to ignite a more dense charge earlier, to maintain MTBT. (because the burn will take longer, you need max cyl pressure to occur at the right geometric piston location) The problem I...
Is that your motor Grim?
I'd suggest cracking a propane bottle (little campfire size with a torch fitting works well, or a bernzomatic brazing torch) and "washing" the intake down while it's running. Any fluctuation's in the idle speed will halp you pin point the location...
Interesting that you pulled from that thread, because this IS THAT TURBO
He bought it from Gixxer, but supposedly, he had ported the holly living piss out of the wastegate port and it didn't do it any more...
Strange to see it misbehaving again...
I'd check the 10Ga wire from the positive battery terminal to the fuse box. It is quite common for the wire to corrode away from inside the insulation.
If you have an after market alarm, your best bet is do disable the factory alarm by removing the theft deterrent computer and jumping pin 5 to pin 13 to provide a constant ground to the starter relay. The theft connector is connector A on the image below.
The 7m casting is pretty good for flow. There are quite a few gains to be made by porting it, but a log style would be a down grade from a flow and dynamics standpoint...
Hi grim ;)
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