Does anyone know if i can use a 2jz crank thrust washer for my 1jz?
In one of the "stickys" I see that the main bearings are the same, so would it be save to say that the thrust washer is too since its on one of the main bearings?
Anyone have any pictures of a motor without the oil pan?
with the clutch pushed i can keep the motor running if i keep my foot on the gas but if i let it go down under about 1000 rpm then it still tries to kill itself. in neutral, it has no problem idling itself.
Any ideas other than crank walk? I will try diagnosing it Friday when I get back to the car but I would like as many diagnosis ideas as possible so that I can try the next if it is not crank walk.
Car: 88 mk3
motor: 1jz-gte
tranny: r154
Problem: when the clutch is pushed in, the motor stalls
Conditions:
-When the car is cold, it runs and drives fine but when the clutch is pushed in you can see the rpms drop 200 rpm.
-When the car reaches operating temperature, the motor...
Car: 88 mk3
motor: 1jz-gte
tranny: r154
Problem: when the clutch is pushed in, the motor stalls
Conditions:
-When the car is cold, it runs and drives fine but when the clutch is pushed in you can see the rpms drop 200 rpm.
-When the car reaches operating temperature, the motor...
I don't recall exactly what it looks like, but I do remember that it was one of only a few thats between the firewall and ECU that is a connector with between 3 and 7 pins. I just disconnected one at a time and tried the motor each time and then it magically ran perfect after I disconnected a...
I had nearly the same issue but it was a wiring issue. My friend that did my wiring ended up not deleting a certain connector that is located on the harness between the firewall and ECU and it just happened to fit a body side connector so I instinctively had it plugged in. When I finished the...
I have an 89 NA with a 1jzgte/r154 swap. This has been my daily driver for the past year and I havent had any issues out of it, until now. This issue just started in the past few days.
-Once engine is at operating temp. it stalls instead of trying to idle
-I can still drive the can normally...
I have an mk3 that I am trying to finish my 1jzget swap into. The wiring has been done by someone that has done the swap mulitple times. The motor and everything is in and wired up correctly with continuity from the the ECU plugs to each sensor. Engine starts up great and sounds good. but...
TPS, is adjusted and within spec.
QUESTION: Does the RPM signal the ECU uses, to calculate fuel maps with, come from a series circuit from the Tachometer???
I've heard that on NA mk3's you need to remove a resistor from the back of the cluster in order for the tach to work with a 1jzgte...
If it makes a difference, I disconnected the TPS plug and it did the exact same thing at ~3k rpm. So, would you still think it would have to do with the adjustment?
As for the spark plugs, they are at factory gap.
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