Your favorite motor oil and why.

[nickel and dimed]

I figure if we all put the types of oil we use and why, new people to the supra world can figure out what they can use and what are some good options.

If you use different oils at different times put that down as well. For example different weights in winter and summer, different types for racing and daily driving.

Oh and finally how often you change the oil and filter.

Also read jdub's post before posting here, this will require research and facts.

I will start.

I am currently trying out Royal purple (RP) fuilds. I am trying them out because it made stanza speed's tranny shift smooter and the all synthetic oil is what I have been looking for. Oh and it is purple :icon_bigg. Plus they claim increased horsepower due to the friction modifiers they add which has been tested by shows such as horsepower tv.

I am using multigrade SAE 10W30 synthetic from RP and I change the motor oil and filter every 5000k (due to research on synthetic oils (from info on this site and bob the oil guy) and proper changing intervals and even 5000k is short. Here is a link to RP website for recommended changing intercals :http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#mo4).

For Tranny fluid I use synchromax with synerlec additive and I use it because I have seen the difference. (http://www.royalpurple.com/techrp/synerleca.html)

For differential I use Max-gear SAE 75W90 and API GL-5 or GL-4 because it is a LSD oil and works with the clutch packs. (http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/mgeara.html)
Has synslide additive. http://www.royalpurple.com/techrp/synslidea.html

Here is a link to Royal Purple Viscosity index of motor oils (multigrade and heavy duty) for cSt (at 40C & 100C) and SSU (at 100F and 210F). http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html

Finally here is a link to independent testing for RP on improved gas milages, horsepower and torque. 14 different test showed an average improvment (minimal ~2.0%) in horsepower and savings on fuel mileage. http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecommerce/client_39/cat_header/518_2.pdf
And also some independent test from the RP website: http://www.royalpurple.com/techrp/summary.html

Here is a graph of Timken Load test (durability under pressure) and TFOUT Oxidation Test (longevity) against other oils. I believe this test was done by RP.

And some photos of wear on bearings with different oils.

This one is supposed to be of a bearing's surface without oils.

This one is supposed to be after "other" synthetic oils

This one is supposed to be after using RP

I believe that both sides should be seen so, for sake of argument, here is a link to amsoil in a comparison test where they found RP to use a moly in their oil as a lubricant which can overtime come out of suspention possibly causing blockages.
http://www.performancemotoroil.com/Royal_Purple_info.html
Also here is an independent test comparing multiple oils in a wear analysis.
http://www.worldsbestoil.ca/dyno-test.php

Conclusion: Based on the information, RP is a good synthetic oil if not used for extended periods of time (over 10,000Kms) so I will continue to use this oil for the moment, changing it every 5000k, just to be safe.

 

[jdub]

I'm going to approve this thread...with conditions:

- You post what brand, SAE grade, API service category, and the specific oil data sheet (or link to it)...with an oil analysis (if you do them)

- Info on the oil's base stock and additive pack. (did I say oil analysis?)

- You cite the reason why you use this oil...no hearsay ("well my mechanic said" or "it seems to work fine for me")...you use reasons based on how the oil flows, effect on oil pressure, wear analysis, etc. Use logic and scientific reasoning.

- What oil filter you use and why using the same reasoning.

- What change interval you use and why.

This is going to require a little research if you post in this thread...no research, no approval. Be prepared to back up what you have to say...if you do, I will allow it even though I might not agree with it. Take the time to make a good, informative post....one and two liners are not going to cut it. Otherwise, the post will be deleted...fair enough?

N & D - you started...we'll need the info above.

 

[jdub]

N & D - Good post, here's some more on Royal Purple oil:

Royal Purple is a "boutique" oil in that it's a Group IV & Group V blend of PAO and ester base stocks. Their consumer line of motor oil is API certified to SL specifications, with the exception of the 20W-50 which is a SJ spec...their XPR racing line is not API/ILSAC certified. In addition, the 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30 are rated API energy conserving. I do not recommend you use the XPR line in a street car...it lacks many of the additives you want in a daily driven machine. In this case, "racing" is not better

Royal Purple oils are more slanted toward the hi-performance/racing crowd in general and as a result, the additive pack contains less detergents and anti-oxidants than what you will see in German Castrol or Redline. Unless you do oil analysis, a 5000 mile change interval will keep the oil from degrading to the point where it's not doing it's job....IMO, a 8000 mile OCI would be safe for this oil if city driving is what you primarily do. The filter will need to be changed at the 4000 mile point for an 8K OCI.

Royal Purple's color comes from dye used in the formulation; German Castrol was green a couple of years ago (elves?) for the same reason. All oils (including syn oils) are refined clear...dye is added for marketing. Moly comes in two forms (maybe more)...inorganic MoS2 which must be in a carrier (suspension) to flow and an organic type which is soluble in oil. Royal Purple uses the organic moly as a friction modifier and actually contains less organic moly than Redline does. This type of moly will not clog up your filter.

I would like to point out something you will see on oil data sheets that's fairly common concerning viscosity:

Royal Purple 5W-30
40 deg C - 65.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 11.0 centistrokes

Royal Purple 10W-30
40 deg C - 70.3 centistrokes
100 deg C - 10.7 centistrokes

The 5W oil is a bit thinner than the 10W at cold temps as expected, but the 5W is actually thicker than the 10W at operating temp. This is due to the friction modifiers used in the oil and illustrates another point: Oil never thickens up when hot, it always thins to the SAE viscosity spec shown in the 2nd number on the API stamp.

Auto and manual transmission oils live a much easier life than motor oil...they do not have to deal with combustion by-products. As a result, most will perform very well. Royal Purple's manual transmission oil is excellent...most syn oils of this type are. Redline is another excellent choice.

Auto tranny oil is actually hydraulic oil. The #1 killer is heat....all of them (DEXRON III spec) will perform well if you have a good cooler. Adding a transmission filter pre-cooler is also a very good idea, as is a temp gauge. Royal Purple, Redline, Castrol, and Valvoline are excellent choices.

Royal Purple 80W-90 and Redline 75W-90 LSD oils work very well in a Supra LSD that's in good shape. Keep in mind, both contain the friction modifiers necessary for the LSD...Redline 75W-90 NS does not have the modifiers. However, if the LSD has a lot of wear, either of these syn LSD oils may cause excessive slip. In this case, the Ford 75W-90 may be a better choice...you will also need the Ford friction modifier.

One last thing. Be careful of the data concerning wear/performance on the manufacturer's site...they are in the business of selling you something. Very often you have to dig through the hype to get what you really want to know

 

[jdub]

Hmmm…doesn’t look like there are many takers on this thread. It would be nice to get one on Red Line
It’s really not that hard to take a close look at the oil you’re putting in your motor…might make ya think about it too

Ok then…I use Castrol SynTec European Formula 0W-30 (aka German Castrol):





It’s API Service Category SL, SJ. It exceeds ACEA A3 requirements and meets ILSAC GF-3/GF-2 emission system capability requirements. This oil far exceeds the API Service Category SF, SG requirements in the Supra manual.

Here is the data sheet for the oil:

Castrol SynTec Data Sheet

This data sheet is provides minimum info…I’ll add a few pertinent figures:
40 deg C viscosity (from analysis): 72.9 cSt
Velocity Index (from analysis): 166
Pour Point (from Material Safety Sheet): -40 deg F
Flash Point (from Material Safety Sheet): 437 deg F
A basic volatility test revealed: a 9% loss at 4 hours and 17.5% loss at 8 hours at ~340 deg F.

Here’s an oil analysis from another user on a virgin oil sample (in PPM):

Iron..................3
Silicon...............4
Sodium............14
Potassium……....12
Moly................<5
Phosphorus&#8230;...903
Zinc.............1157
Calcium.........1941
Magnesium......770

Gas Chromatograph and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) analysis revealed the base stock appears to be a blend of mostly 4 cSt PAO with either 6 cSt or 8 cSt cuts. The oil is comprised of Group IV PAO base stock (plus additives). The above analysis did not show any esters in this oil, but a different, more thorough EI and CI Mass Spectrometer analysis did reveal esters of a type not seen in other oils.

Why do I use this oil&#8230;it&#8217;s very good

- German Castrol is a true synthetic oil&#8230;no Group I, II, or III base stock at all. IMO this is important for a turbo car considering the heat produced by the turbo. I did not want any problems keeping my SP61 turbo cool (it&#8217;s oil cooled only) and avoid any chance of the oil coking on engine shutdown.
- The oil flows very well cold, getting the oil up to the cams and to the bearing quickly where it&#8217;s needed the most. German Castrol is on the thick side for a 0W-30&#8230;the 40 deg C and 100 deg C (operating temp) cSt numbers confirm this.
- At engine operating temperature, this oil gives me excellent pressure at idle (10-15 psi) and at 3000 rpm (45-50 psi)
- The Viscosity Index is high, indicating that this oil will resist viscosity degradation over time. It appears to have few viscosity modifiers as additives&#8230;this means the base oil itself handles the rated viscosity range very well. It also means a higher percentage of actual oil vs additives.
- The oil has low volatility and a high flash point, indicating consumption from oil evaporation will be minimal. This is typical for synthetic oils.
- German Castrol has an excellent additive pack. Well formulated detergents and anti-wear additives. My only wish is that it had a bit more moly
- Not scientific, but my valve train is quieter running this oil&#8230;definite difference from Mobil 1 5W-30 and Amsoil 0W-30 I&#8217;ve tried. It&#8217;s quite possible the thicker nature of the German Castrol is the reason.

I also run a quart of 100% ester based oil (VP Racing RS530&#8230;another excellent oil) as a seal conditioner. The ester helps to keep the seals soft and keep the motor clean. This is probably not necessary due to the formulation of German Castrol, but it sure won&#8217;t hurt either

I use Wix 51342 filters. This full flow filter is very well designed with the by-pass valve at the filter mouth and a pleat count that gives it excellent internal surface area. It is also about 2&#8220; longer than the stock filter providing additional capacity and is not a problem to install (length wise) on my remote filter set-up. I plan to switch over to a dual head remote using this Wix filter and a Trasko by-pass filter to get particulates in the oil down to the sub-micron level.

I have been running the German Castrol at an 8,000 mile change interval&#8230;a PAO base stock oil will easily go this long. My plan is to switch to the above filter set-up and have oil analysis done at 4,000 mile intervals. Based on other results others have seen with this oil doing the same thing, it should last until the 12-15,000 mile range. I&#8217;ll add those analyses to this post.

The only place I know of in the US to get the German Castrol is at AutoZone&#8230;you may have to ask for it or special order it. It only comes in a 0W-30&#8230;any other Castrol SynTec you see on the shelf is a Group III base stock&#8230;it is not a true synthetic oil. In Canada, it&#8217;s my understanding is WalMart and Canadian Tire sell the German Castrol. This oil would be especially good for those cold winters up North

 

[jdub]

ive heard that syn oil causes gasket breakage, just wondering if thats true?

Many years ago when the 1st syn oils came out, they were almost pure PAO oil. One thing straight PAO does is cause seal shrinkage...leading to the urban legend that syn oils cause leaks. All the major oil companies fixed this very quickly by adding esters to the oil. Ester makes seals swell and counteracts the effect of the PAO. That, plus other additives in syn oils, have completely eliminated any seal problems. The only thing you may see on a high mileage motor with poor seals is syn oils do a very good job of dissolving all deposits. Some of these deposits might be the only thing left keeping the seal from leaking

 

[jetjock]

Because it's less than 1% of all their oil sales AutoZone has recently decided to discontinue carrying GC so get it while you can. A pity one of the best oils out there gets dumped, no doubt because of public ignorance it's too "thin".

Thats just great...I friggin hate American marketing!

Nice Avatar JJ :biglaugh:

bwest let me know this:

btw - I have had two local parts shops looking for the GC for me for a week now (both of which are fairly resourceful and can usually find what ever I ask for) and none of their suppliers have it or have had it. One of their oil suppliers (located in NorCal) is dumping the entire castrol line of oils in the near future. Interesting tidbit.

You might want to check AutoZone and ask to look at the back shelf...I found a dozen bottles that way

That word is straight from AZ HQ. It can still be bought online ($8/qt!) or a local Castrol distributor can get it. Let's hope AZ comes round at some point. Until then I may stick with PP with a quart of that Grp V stuff we bought thrown in.

The avatar was sent to me by a fellow tech specialist at Chornobyl so I thought what the heck

 

[jdub]

Oh crap, damn I'm glad you guys posted this, time to go raid my Autozone stores!

On my list of things to do tomorrow

JJ - At $8 a quart you might as well use Redline!

one of the vdub dealerships out here in the portland area sells this syntec stuff.. i havent gone in to check prices or what kind but i would like to let people know incase its a global vw dealership type deal or just the one out here...

Loki - Good to know...I'll give the local VW dealer a call and see!


Edit: 7 April 07
Something interesting I've found in the last week or so. Some of the AutoZones I've visited have the older GC...there's a code on the bottom that starts with an "M". The 1st two numbers are the year, the next three are the number of days into the year it was made. If it's a "M04", it was made in 2004 and it is the older "GC Green" (the oil is actually green). There were a few very early 2005 bottle of this oil as well. The key is both versions will say "Made in Germany" on the back.

That is the best GC out there...made before a slight formula change in early 2005. If it is the CG Green, buy all you can get

 

[jdub]

After many hours of reading I have a quick question for you if you dont mind.

In your opinion (money aside here) you would still use your castrol over a Royal Purple/Redline correct?

I only plan on running the car in the summer months (temps shouldnt be much colder than -5 or -10C at the most and usually top out around 35C) so I cant see the 0W30 being an issue there. I want to give this motor the best I can.

That's actually a tough question...the GC is hard to beat.

But, with $$$ no object, I would use Red Line 5W-30. It is a 100% polyol ester base stock...the best there is. Aviation jet engine oil use an ester base. It performs better across all the lubrication regimes, resists shear and heat, and requires very little viscosity improver to perform to grade. Ester is also a great seal conditioner...causes seals to swell and prevent leaks. Red Line has a stout additive pack with a good dose of soluble moly. It is an excellent oil.

RP is also a very good oil...PAO based like the GC, but the additive pack is not as good as Red Line. Read my comments above.
To be honest, when you start talking about differences between GC, Red Line, and RP oils...you start splitting hairs with a razor

An ester based oil (like Red Line) is king in the lubrication arena, but the problem is it's expensive. Like I noted above in my GC write-up, I add a quart of an ester based oil to the fill when I change my oil.

 

[jdub]

JJ - At $8 a quart you might as well use Redline!

I'd just like to point out that even though the GC is $8 online, I was able to get the stuff for $6.19 a qt. locally, so, it's still not a bad buy for what you are getting. Anyone wanting to get some of this stuff before it's gone? I suggest you hurry up and go to your local AZ and get it!

True statement...if you want this oil at a reasonable price that is

GC ftmfw! i heard that AZ was dropping GC and immediatly raided every AZ within 30 miles. got 34 quarts at $4.49 each due to a syntec sale. definately cant beat that price. i guess when i eventually run out, i'll have to switch to redline.

That is an outstanding deal...I was able to pick-up quite a bit at that price before the sale ended. Good for you man :biglaugh:

 

[thelonerider]

Great thread...:thumbup:
While strolling around in Walmart (here it is north of Montreal, Quebec, Canada), I came across the GC on the shelf. It was something like $8.50CND so there may be another source for the 0W30 GC.:icon_bigg

Edit by Jdub:

Just to follow up on that talk we had about the castrol 0w30 that I had sent you a picture of... it turns out it is in fact German castrol, even though it doesn't say European formula on the front... I went outside a few days ago and looked at the bottle a little bit closer and it does indeed say "Made in Germany" right on the back followed by information regarding it being imported... just thought I'd let you know!

You can buy the stuff at Canadian Tire for $8.99CAD and Wal-mart $8.54CAD I still need to check Napa and a few other places

Confirmation for you Canadian guys...looks like you can get German Castrol 0W-30 at Canadian Tire and Wal-Mart

Here's what the Canadian bottles of GC look like..the key is "Made in Germany" on the back (Thanks Bob!):

 

[jdub]

moble1 full synthetic 10w40 or 10w30 with a moble filter or k&N. reasons i use- 5psi oil pressure gain from conventional oil on the HW@80mph. 1.5mpg increase(trany,diff are RP), also how clean the motor stays. (20k on a jdm)

-shane

Ok...let's talk about Mobil 1. Before I start, go back and read post #2...the following is what I expect for a post on a particular oil. Research the oil, justify your reasoning, and base your statements on fact not opinion. The only reason I'm doing this is 1) Mobil 1 is a very popular oil and 2) Mobil 1 is not entirely what it claims to be.

I assume you are using Mobil 1 High Mileage vs. the other Mobil products based on the grades you mentioned. Mobil 1 HM 10W-30 is API Service Category SL,SJ,CF. It meets ACEA A3/B3 and A3/B4 requirements. Mobil 1 HM 10W-40 is API Service Category SL,SJ,CF....it does not meet/list ACEA specifications. Both of these oils far exceed API Service Category SF, SG requirements in the Supra manual.

Here is the data sheet for these oils:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAXXENPVLMOMobil_1_High_Mileage_Oil.asp

Both oils are on par with what you would expect for their given grades. Both have excellent flash points and pour points...the 10W-30 is very good pour point wise, it's good down to -54 deg C. IMO, the 10W-30 would be a great all year oil...there really is no point changing to the 10W-40 for the summer. the 10W-30 will perform very well even during the summer heat. Both oils have a robust additive pack.

Mobil 1 uses Group III + alphaolefins (AN) base oils including polyalphaolefins (PAO)...however, the primary base stock is Group III.

In 2006, the results of a gas chromatography test on Mobil 1 5w-30 EP were posted by an industry expert on the popular motor oil discussion website BITOG. It showed the oil to be primarily composed of a less expensive, Group III processed mineral oil. Until this time, Mobil 1 was believed to be a true synthetic, utilizing a Group IV (PAO) base stock. The release of this information has led to a backlash against Exxon Mobil's lubricant products in many automotive communities. Ironically, in 1999, Mobil fought Castrol's change in formulation to a Group III base stock in motor oils being marketed as fully synthetic. Mobil claimed that Castrol was deceiving their customer base, while degrading their products. The National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus eventually ruled that Castrol could continue to market their SynTec line as a fully synthetic motor oil. Exxon Mobil currently refuses to comment on the primary base stock of their Mobil 1 series of oils. This has only added further confusion over the exact definition of the term "synthetic oil."

So far, I have not seen any further info on Mobil 1 oils that contradicts the above quote. I have seen this US Patent application by Exxon Mobil:

http://appft1.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph...81".PGNR.&OS=DN/20060211581&RS=DN/20060211581

The cliff notes on this is Exxon wants to patent the process to utilize Group III base stock with AN and PAO modifiers for use as "synthetic" base stock...one would assume this means their Mobil 1 line of oils. Since PAO and AN are rather expensive, the majority of the base stock is very likely to be Group III...by definition not a true synthetic oil. Appears to me they want to sell us oil marketed as a synthetic, at synthetic prices and increase their profit margin....I guess last year's record profit for any US company wasn't good enough

Keep in mind, Group III base stock does not make Mobil 1 a bad oil...it's actually very good. Take a look at the above pics...very clean...no deposits at all. It justs chaffs my tail pipe to pay synthetic prices and get a Group III oil...especially when Exxon will not come clean about it. Pennzoil Platinum is also using a Group III...the company makes no secret about it. In fact, their Platinum line is among the best there is due to the technology behind refining it.

 

[GotToyota?]

Pennzoil Platinum is also using a Group III...the company makes no secret about it. In fact, their Platinum line is among the best there is due to the technology behind refining it.

Which is why I'm glad I chose the 10W-30 for my Celica.

-Matt

 

[jdub]

Ok, Since we are on the Subject. I havent heard alot about AMSOIL 20w50 Racing Oil. Ive used this Product a few times and it seem to instantly change the way the engine Idles, Drives and all around Performance. Anyone got any Responses on this Product.

Robert


Edit by Jdub:
If you're going to talk about an oil, please read post #2. one/two liners don't give us the info needed. I left the post on Mobil 1 for a reason...I'm going to comment on it.
I will be a bit more thorough.

Robert - Read this post...it applies to any 15W or 20W-50:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41775

I highly recommend reading this link when it comes to choosing oil viscosity:
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

Why don't you do a write-up on it? The Amsoil website has a ton of info about their oils and comprehensive data sheets...read this link to see what it all means:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38811

Might just open your eyes when you compare the Series 2000 0W-30 to the Series 2000 20W-50 you're using

 

[jdub]

I'm about to switch to Motul oil, which is a real synthetic oil. I've been using Mobile 1 synth for a while it's not bad. Gets the job done, but I&#8217;ve also noticed that as oil approaches 3,000 miles of use it starts disappearing. As in evaporating or something. Now sure where it goes. I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this with mobile one.

What you're referring to is NOACK Volatility. The NOACK test determines how much weight loss an oil experiences through volatization. Unfortunately, Mobil does not publish numbers on this, but testing has shown it's in the 6-9% range...that is pretty low. I doubt your oil consumption is due to the Mobil 1...turbo seals or valve seals is a more likely culprit.

I only notice this loss of oil after the oil starts to darken and it becomes time for a change. My engine is not burning oil or putting it on the ground. So I figure it must be the oil. For the first 1,500 - 2,000 miles it's fine. It's just after that point when I notice the disappearance of oil.

Hmmm...could be an oil dilution issue...fuel getting into your oil. I would have a sample sent out for testing:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html

This will tell you what's going on inside your engine

BTW - color is not an indicator of when to change the oil...another urban myth. All oil will darken over time...it's due to the heat from the motor and discoloration from the combustion process. Mobil 1 can easily go 5,000 miles between changes.

 

[jdub]

It it true that when you use Royal Purple Oil you gotta keep using it and can't switch brands because it could damage something in the engine??? I heard that from someone.

Sigh :3d_frown:

No it's not true...not even close to being so.
Some of these "myths" are simply absurd.

 

[jdub]

I decided to run Castrol GTX 5w-30 since my engine is high milege, so I go to Castrol to read the spec on it and found this link. It's interesting to see what Castrol reccomends for me 89 Supra. Can someone go take a peek and let us know what you think.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/LubesSelector.do?categoryId=82915461

Did you read this part?

Legal
These Recommendations are based on the statistics. We do not take the responsibility in case malfunctioning.

I'm wondering what statistics they are referring to....what owners actually buy to use? If that's the case, it doesn't hold any weight...it's a popularity contest.

I looked at the GTX High Mileage 5W-30:
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/b...ts/downloads/p,q/pds_gtx_high_mileage_usa.pdf

At 100 deg C it has a viscosity of 12.0 cst...in this respect, it is similar to the German Castrol...it's ops temp viscosity is on the thick side, getting fairly close to a 40W. Looking at the cold pumping viscosity, it appears to flow well at low temps....Castrol did not publish a 40 deg C viscosity for this oil. This is a Group III oil, non-synthetic oil...personally, I favor using a true syn oil or at least a highly hydrocracked Group III like Pennzoil Platinum in a turbo car...these oils handle heat better and resist coking on turbo shut down. Having said that, this oil should work well for you, but I would not go over 5000 miles on it without doing analysis.

Also note on the above data sheet...Castrol says the GTX High Mileage 20W-50 should be used above 20 deg F. On the recommendation calculator, it's one of the oils that pop up for temps above 10 deg F. Makes me think the calculator is more generic than anything.

Jdub I was reading the pdf and realized it was for the high mileage gtx, I used the regular gtx.

Ahhh...when I read "my engine is high mileage", I made the assumption GTX High Mileage oil. The std GTX does flow better cold and shows a viscosity of 10.8 cst at ops temp. About average for this type/grade of oil. GTX is also a Group III oil, non-synthetic oil.

 

[jdub]

Hey quick question. Is it ok to mix the older version with the new version? Reason i am asking is because every autozone i go to near me has so many of the German Castrols on the shelf and im about to go and buy all of them

You can, but use the "Green" GC by itself if you have enough. I'll be surprised if you find any of the green at all
If you do, buy all of it!

Good luck finding the Green Castrol. I went to 4 different AZ's and altogether they had 29 quarts, I bought all of them, and none were the Green kind.

That is because the Green GC is very old stock.

Just picked up 45 quarts at all my local autozones:biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh: They are having a sale right now. 5 quarts and a free bosch oil filter for $24.99 so go buy all you can!!!

Hopefully all of them said "Made in Germany" on the back like the above pics show

Guys - Lets keep this thread on topic...read post #2. I'd like to get facts on the oils folks use in the 7M, 1J, or 2J motors...the data is what we are after here and how the oil is working for you.

 

[Grimsta]

Ok, its time for a new post here. I use Nippon Eneos 0w50. Here's the reasons why:

1. My shop is the Northern California distributor for it and we got a ton so I wanted to try it out and see how it went.
2. On the track I maintained higher oil pressure throughout the day then the Castrol Syntec i was using (not the green)
3. After 3 drift events the oil level has not gone down like my previous oil would (NOACK), and no its not because of any leaks
4. As i check the oil now, its still clean (after 2400 miles)
5. I'm no oil scientist but the properties below seemed comparative to other good oils.

Quality grade RG/API SM
SAE viscosity grade 0W-50
Appearance Orange
Density (15&#176;C), g/cm3 0.847
Flash point (COC), &#176;C 232
Kinematic viscosity (40&#176;C), mm2/s 104
(100&#176;C), mm2/s 18.0
Viscosity index 192
Pour point, &#176;C &#8211;45.0
TAN, mgKOH/g 2.3
TBN (HCl), mgKOH/g 6.4
Color (ASTM) L3.0

here is the MSDS, http://www.eneos.us/documents/MSDS_0W50.pdf
Unfortunately there is no data for some parameters i would like to know. I'll work on getting an oil sample of my used oil.

 

[jdub]

This is interesting...two posts in two days on the same oil...from opposite sides of the country

It did peak my interest on Eneos oils...here's what I posted (post #6) concerning the 0W-50 in another thread in this section. Basically, states my opinion on using any 50W oil in a street car:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54294

I was able to dig up a virgin oil analysis (VAO) done on the Eneos 0W-50:

Aluminum:1
Chromium:0
Iron:1
Copper:0
Lead:0
Tin:0
Molybdenum:42
Nickel:0
Manganese:0
Silver:0
Titanium:0
Potassium:2
Boron:59
Silicon:3
Sodium:7
Calcium:1811
Magnesium:20
Phosphorus:662
Zinc:790
Barium:0

SuS @210*F: 85.2
Flashpoint *F: 425
TBN: 8.5

It appears the 0W-50 is a PAO base stock with ester added as a seal conditioner. The add pack seems a bit light for a street driven car...though, the TBN was higher than the advertised 6.4. Could be due to Eneos' focus on racing (like Royal Purple)...this oil does not look well suited to extended drain intervals, but should be fine for at least 5000 miles. This oil is thinner than the other 50W multigrades on the market, meaning it will flow better, but not near as well as a 0W or 5W-30.


There is something that concerns me about this oil...it look like it is targeted toward the tuner/racing crowd (like Motul, Neo, etc)...there is a lot of hype in the claims made about this oil. That makes me suspicious from the start...especially the claims concerning HP gains on the dyno. I can put on a buffalo head, leopard pants, grab my sacred totem and dance around the car, and I guarantee there will be a variance in RWHP...without changing nothing, nada, zilch. Using dyno runs to prove a lubricant is better vs others on the market is another level of marketing hype...on par with some of the "snake oil" additive advertisements. Making claims a motor oil (or additive) gives any significant increase in HP is simply outrageous. Let's keep these kind of claims out of this discussion...I want to know how our motors are going to hold up using this oil.

Since you're a dealer in this oil...a couple of questions:
- My understanding Enos oil sells for $9+ a quart...true?
- What is the base stock for the 5W-30 and 5W-40...the info I have points toward a Group III base stock?

I dont' advertise the "horsepower gain" either. Stat crap is BS, just how K&N massages the numbers to make them look like they flow more than other competitors, however it does sell for $9. It varies on the grade really. 5w30 is like $7.50 while the 0w50 i use is $10.
As far as using it in a street car like you said, mine is a track car. Pegging the rev limiter pretty much most of the time while drifting. It was because of that hype that i wanted to test it. See if it was actually what it was cracked up to be, and it has worked better than the Syntec i was using (once again not sure if it was the German stuff, but i doubt it)
I fired off an email to Eneos about the base stock, so when i get an answer i'll let you know

That's cool Grim...we're on the same sheet of music. I can see why you would want a bit thicker oil for what you do...the Eneos 5W-50 is between a 40W multigrade and a 20W-50 viscosity wise.

How are your oil temps while you're on the track? You upgraded the cooler circuit to a full flow (dumped the stock filter head) thermostat controlled set-up?

Not yet, i don't really plan on keeping this motor thats currently in the car as my track engine, lol. BUT, in the bosses 240, he did run 10 cooler than normal.
Eneos hasn't replied to me yet about Base Groups, but from what i've been reading from them the 5w30 is a group 3, but the 5w40 and 5w20 are PAO fully synthetics

All right...LMK

 

[Frank Rizzo]

I use Redline 5w30.

API service class: SM SL SG CF
Vis @ 40C: 62
Vis @ 100C: 10.6
Viscosity index: 162
CCS viscosity poise: 60 @ -30C
HTHS vis cP @ 150C: 3.8
Pour point: -49F
Flash point: 486F
NOACK Evaporation loss, 1hr @ 482F: 6%

I found that info on their site.

I also use K&N oil filters. They claim 10-20 micron filtering, and flow rates between 12-16GPM. They also have a 550psi burst strength and a nut on the end for easy removal.

I'm using this oil right now, and I'm changing it soon. I want to do an analysis, I went to Blackstone Labs' website and printed out a form. I just can't find something suitable to store the oil in for shipping, and I don't feel like waiting for them to send me a container. I DO have a quart left over from last change for a VoA also. This is my first oil analysis, maybe a little help/pointers from an expert? :naughty: