Woo! Head Gasket Boom Boom! Yeah!
- Thread starter theKnifeArtist
- Start date
Didn't want to start a new thread but, is it ok to use a stock head gasket after the head has been machined? The motor was previously equipped with a 2mm MHG but I am thinking of using the stock head gasket. How much will doing this raise my compression? Would I be better off getting a new 2mm MHG?
also, are there any issues with running the stock headgasket with .5mm oversized pistons?
also, are there any issues with running the stock headgasket with .5mm oversized pistons?
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im also looking into the bhg thing. the people i bought the car from put a MHG on it and not even 20 hours later it blew on i think 4 or 5lb of boost.
if i didn't hit boost and didn't do anything to the head or block could i get away with using a stocker hg?
This would be my temperary fix till i get my engine rebuilt. I just need a car now.
if i didn't hit boost and didn't do anything to the head or block could i get away with using a stocker hg?
This would be my temperary fix till i get my engine rebuilt. I just need a car now.
Not that big an impact...assuming there is a small amount removed.
Are you going to get the seals replaced? Or go for the complete head re-build?
Are you going to get the seals replaced? Or go for the complete head re-build?
which seals? valve seals? no. i'm not taking the valves out of the head. if you mean gaskets then yeah, im gettin new gaskets..
also..when i took out the (im guessing) A/C fan switch thing out of the thermostat housing i realized the tip looked like this. is it still usable?
another question: what size socket do i need for the crank pulley(a buddy is bringing his tools over so i wanna know so he don't miss it)? whats the best way to turn the engine with a breaker bar...from the top or the bottom..
and
also..when i took out the (im guessing) A/C fan switch thing out of the thermostat housing i realized the tip looked like this. is it still usable?
another question: what size socket do i need for the crank pulley(a buddy is bringing his tools over so i wanna know so he don't miss it)? whats the best way to turn the engine with a breaker bar...from the top or the bottom..
and
did you get that from the dealership?johnathan1 said:
Why are you taking the crank pulley off? It is 19mm...
And yes, my head gasket was $81 from the dealership.
And yes, my head gasket was $81 from the dealership.
after reading around. Arent felpro steel core head gaskets pretty good? (seem to be by the posts i read) I was thinking of going felpro and ARP studs in mine
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what about that coolant switch thing? anyone?
and what is the size of the thing in the spark plug valley?
and what is the size of the thing in the spark plug valley?
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I wouldn't reuse that coolant sensor...looks pretty erroded... How do your other coolant sensors look? i bet all of that erosion was caused by a combination of exhaust gasses and green coolant... I'm curious to see what the water jackets on your head will look like...
You need a 14mm hex socket to get the oil plugs out of the spark plug galley cover area...
You need a 14mm hex socket to get the oil plugs out of the spark plug galley cover area...
do i have to take the cams out to get head milled? i called a machine shop and the guy said that you gots to take the cams out cuz the valves get in the way..there any special procedures with taking them out?
When I took my head to have it milled, I just basically left it fully assembled. They removed the cams and everything and re-assembled with assembly lube.
But I guess you can remove them yourself if you want to...Just follow the torque sequence in the TSRM, and make sure you know where each cam cap came from...they need to go back in the same place they came from.
But I guess you can remove them yourself if you want to...Just follow the torque sequence in the TSRM, and make sure you know where each cam cap came from...they need to go back in the same place they came from.
gotcha, i had a hunch it was the same procedure like main caps. thanks, ill take em off myself. anything so save money.
so i got the head off yesterday.
nice to see the cylinders still got crosshatches. the pistons i cleaned cleaned up pretty nicely.
question: can the valves stay in while its getting milled? is 170 bucks to get the head milled too much? theres this place around the corner from me but i dunno if i should keep hunting for a better price.
i had more questions, but i forget..
nice to see the cylinders still got crosshatches. the pistons i cleaned cleaned up pretty nicely.
question: can the valves stay in while its getting milled? is 170 bucks to get the head milled too much? theres this place around the corner from me but i dunno if i should keep hunting for a better price.
i had more questions, but i forget..
Attachments
more questions:
-do i have to take the egr cooler off the head to get it machined?
-this is down the road but would running my MBC into the glove box be too long and cause spike?
-also, my friend thats helping me says then when worked on his friends car, they used a 150 grit paper to get the block deck cleaned up? is this a safe practice? how should i remove that imprint of the gasket that cant be scraped off?
-do i have to take the egr cooler off the head to get it machined?
-this is down the road but would running my MBC into the glove box be too long and cause spike?
-also, my friend thats helping me says then when worked on his friends car, they used a 150 grit paper to get the block deck cleaned up? is this a safe practice? how should i remove that imprint of the gasket that cant be scraped off?
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put a cometic MHG with ARP's in my car a year ago without decking the block and i am now pushing coolant out the overflow tank undrer boost, go oem or do it write
I think $175 is too much...
Yes you can leave the valves in place because the valves sit lower than the gasket surface.
Here in Northern California it cost me $65 to get the head milled. and it was not some shitty machine...It is CBN machine worth alot of money and the finish was ready for metal head gasket.
You should also get the head checked for cracks, hardness and the valves tested.
I would not use 150 grit on the block surface...Best to have it machined too.
If you do not prep the head and block correctly now, rest assured you will be pulling the motor apart in the future for another BHG.
Cheers,
Roy
Yes you can leave the valves in place because the valves sit lower than the gasket surface.
Here in Northern California it cost me $65 to get the head milled. and it was not some shitty machine...It is CBN machine worth alot of money and the finish was ready for metal head gasket.
You should also get the head checked for cracks, hardness and the valves tested.
I would not use 150 grit on the block surface...Best to have it machined too.
If you do not prep the head and block correctly now, rest assured you will be pulling the motor apart in the future for another BHG.
Cheers,
Roy