Wheel bearing replacement

[Clip]

Hey guys,

Just got back from trying to get the car aligned and the shop found some very slight play in the front passenger side wheel. I've already replaced (in my own garage) bushings, tie rods, shocks/springs, sway bars so I figure I'll go ahead and replace these too. The shop quoted about $340 to do the passenger side wheel and align ($85-90 for the bearing, $60 for the alignment and the rest for three hours labor). If I wanted to do both sides they'd need all day to do it and it'd run around $600.

I think I can handle this job as I've got the use of a garage and my trusty TSRM here with me. I searched but couldn't find anyone who's done a writeup of this job. I think if the book says three hours per side labor I can do it in a long day.

Questions:

Is there a link to a writeup?
Should I go ahead and replace both sides while I'm at it (car has 223K miles)?
Who else has tackled this job? Anything special I should watch for?

Thanks!

 

[gaboonviper85]

Go to a different garage....no way in hell it should cost that much.... $300 max!

 

[Clip]

For passenger or both?

Found the bearing and seal on RockAuto, if I get the parts to do both sides it's running at $78. Then $3 apiece to replace the axle hub lock nut (the part the TSRM lists as non-reusable).

Got off the phone with the stealership just now to try and get a price, they said they'd probably have to replace the hub too because it's probably damaged as well. I don't think it's near that bad yet because the tire barely moved enough to notice when shaking it at the 12-6 position. To be fair though, I don't know how much it would take to damage the hub (but I would figure these are made to give a little warning before serious damage occurs!).

 

[hvyman]

300 for one side isn't bad. Whole hub has to come off and the bearing has to be pressed out. Could just buy the bearing pull the hub off and take it to a machine shop.

FYI its easier to pull the spindle(part with studs) off with a slide hammer with the hub still on the car.

 

[Clip]

300 for one side isn't bad. Whole hub has to come off and the bearing has to be pressed out. Could just buy the bearing pull the hub off and take it to a machine shop.

FYI its easier to pull the spindle(part with studs) off with a slide hammer with the hub still on the car.

I like that last part you said. Could you clarify? The way I'm looking at the diagram I'll need to pop off the bearing cap in the rear, remove the nut from the rear and then use a slide hammer to pull the spindle out?

 

[mecevans]

FTP. Take it off yourself and have a shop press the new ones .

 

[Clip]

FTP. Take it off yourself and have a shop press the new ones .

If I have access to a press is it simple to do? Shouldn't be anything that's shop-only, right?

 

[mecevans]

If I have access to a press is it simple to do? Shouldn't be anything that's shop-only, right?

Sure, just drive them in straight.

 

[hvyman]

Ya take the nut off and slide hammer the spindle out. If the inner bearing race comes with it it's easiest to use a cut off wheel and grid a slot in it. Don't go through. And then use a chisel and hammer and get it off. Wear safety glasses too. Pressing the new one in I used the outer bearing race to push the new one in.

 

[spiller]

FWIW, you can get the bearings from driftmotion for 52 per corner. You are better off doing both sides at once for peace of mind. I am doing this soon and will take the hub off myself (because its easy) and take them to a suspension shop to do the bearings (as they know what they're doing). TRSM doesnt look that difficult but I dont want to get half way through and realise I need a tool that I dont have. The suspension shop quoted me 50-60 dollars in labour to do both sides.

you wouldnt waste your time for that sort of money.

 

[supraguy@aol]

The hardest part is placing the hub properly on the press.
It's a somewhat odd, user-unfriendly shape, in regards to setting it up.
If you have some proper press dies and some spacers to place underneath it, it makes it easier.

 

[Skeezix]

I just did my passenger side one $50 for bearing $10 for the oil seal. Took as much apart as I could and took it to machine shop that did my motor machining and it cost $50 dollars and he also had to make a tool to do it, better than the suspension shop that quoted $90...if it took an hour. Guessing the special tool may have been to hold it in the press

 

[Asterix]

I can do a front one in about 1.5 hours and I've done it a couple of times. The rears take a little longer because there's more stuff to take off.

It's not hard, but you do need to follow the procedure in the TSRM. You must use an impact wrench to take the nut off (36mm IIRC). Strong 2- and 3-jaw pullers are also handy, unless you want to go the slide-hammer route and cut the inner race off the axle stub. I use some big sockets (1"+) and the old inner races to press the new parts together, rather than all the SSTs shown in the TSRM.

Get new oil seals and do not forget to put them in, since they go in early.

 

[Needboost]

i know this is an old thread but where is the procedure on the tsrm to replace the front and the rear wheel bearings?

 

[supraguy@aol]

...in the front and rear axle/suspension sections?

wait- was that a trick question?

 

[Needboost]

...in the front and rear axle/suspension sections?

wait- was that a trick question?

haha realized after i posted that i shouldnt have. typed to early before thinking.lol

 

[AnubisMK3]

I would suggest pulling them yourself and having a shop press them in. Once you've done one wheel bearing....you've done them all lol

 

[DeMoN2318]

When tapping in the new oil seals be sure that you don't tap them in too far...they should be flush with the hub...NOT recessed.

The oil seals are a PITA but if you are patient and take your time you will get it.

Aligning the hub in the press is the hardest part...just take your time and shim with washers etc.

Easily doable on your own...no need to pay a shop