So a few months ago I told you all of the problems I was having...temp. gauge would rise into the red then fall back down very quickly. I've been driving it like that for about 2 weeks now, but found that shutting the motor off then putting it in gear while coasting and starting it that way would drop the needle almost immediately. Didn't know why it did that, but I only "fixed" it that way about 15 times...so hopefully no harm was done. Ordered up some parts, lots of hoses and sensors and wiring that the previous owner didn't replace when he did the motor build, and got cranking.
Got the head off today, and wow is all I have to say. coolant in cylinders 1-5, as well as all over in front of #1. #6 showed the same uneven carbon deposits (light spots, dark spots, and a few shiny spots) as all the other ones, but there wasn't any coolant visibly in the cylinder.
I didn't examine the head yet, but there are very obvious machine marks all across the block...which is what I believe to be why it went. great, I was hoping I wouldn't have to send that out but it looks like now I'll have to. I'm going to check it for warpage, not that it matters because there both going out for machining....might as well have the cylinders re-honed too, because I'm suspecting that I have a crapload of blowby.
Right now, since it's my DD, I'm just slapping a composite one in there until I can get another car....I plan on yoinking the motor and everything out anyway, so I don't mind going back in there again. Does anybody here know if I can trust the gasket to hold 10psi for about a month if I torque it down to about 90ft/lbs? I know not to rely on it, but the wastegate spring doesn't open until then and I don't have the stock one.
The previous owner had all the work done by Valve Tech in Ft. Walton Beach, FL. Dunno if anybody has had anything done by them before but I can't say I'm very impressed. Speaking of shops, does anybody know of some VERY good shops capable of say, 20RA on both the head and the block? I don't mind shipping the stuff out if I know it's going to be done right the first time, but one in Denver/SLC/Idaho would be absolutely wonderfull.
Got the head off today, and wow is all I have to say. coolant in cylinders 1-5, as well as all over in front of #1. #6 showed the same uneven carbon deposits (light spots, dark spots, and a few shiny spots) as all the other ones, but there wasn't any coolant visibly in the cylinder.
I didn't examine the head yet, but there are very obvious machine marks all across the block...which is what I believe to be why it went. great, I was hoping I wouldn't have to send that out but it looks like now I'll have to. I'm going to check it for warpage, not that it matters because there both going out for machining....might as well have the cylinders re-honed too, because I'm suspecting that I have a crapload of blowby.
Right now, since it's my DD, I'm just slapping a composite one in there until I can get another car....I plan on yoinking the motor and everything out anyway, so I don't mind going back in there again. Does anybody here know if I can trust the gasket to hold 10psi for about a month if I torque it down to about 90ft/lbs? I know not to rely on it, but the wastegate spring doesn't open until then and I don't have the stock one.
The previous owner had all the work done by Valve Tech in Ft. Walton Beach, FL. Dunno if anybody has had anything done by them before but I can't say I'm very impressed. Speaking of shops, does anybody know of some VERY good shops capable of say, 20RA on both the head and the block? I don't mind shipping the stuff out if I know it's going to be done right the first time, but one in Denver/SLC/Idaho would be absolutely wonderfull.