Trying to fix code 14

[BigKO]

MODS, please delete identical post in 7mge section

Hey you guys, I am having a weird idle issue. The car surges (rpms rising up down, up down, then dying). I checked my codes and the only one i have is code 14 (ECU, ignition circuit, igniter) were the listed causes via the TSRM. This problem is intermittent, sometimes it will do it, sometimes it wont. Also, when it doesnt do it, if I give the car gas, when coming back down to idle it will try and die (idle goes too low).
Yet, I am unsure how to go about fixing this. Can anyone lead me in the right direction?

 

[koreyd]

maybe the ground on your igniter is not complete. trying doing the improved grounding. open up the ingiter and carefully lift the wires and add a wire to the grounding screw then ground that should stop the intermiitent igt igf signal.

 

[BigKO]

OK, ill definitely try that. Any other ideas? Not saying that isnt correct, just wondering because this is the second igniter ive used and my car is still doing the same thing as with the first.

 

[koreyd]

the bracket is the stock grounding thru the case of the igniter. after i regrounded it and i could actually test per tsrm.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?47169-Improved-grounding&highlight=improved+grounding.
and thanks to jetjock for writing it and pretty much coming up with the idea.

 

[BigKO]

Yeah, Based upon that thread it seems to cause very mild missing. Mine simply doesnt run and throws code 14. I can start it sometimes and it will run without problem, but other times it will start, then die almost immediately because the idle acts like its trying to go too low. Same thing on decel when it does run.

 

[koreyd]

when i had the grounding run stock i tried three of them with crappy mixed results from not starting to misfiring. but after the grounding runs like a champ even thou smoking like a coal fired train,.

 

[BigKO]

LOL, ok thanks for your help, I'll be sure to ground out the igniter and test as much as I can tomorrow. (only have time on the weekends). Ill let you know how it goes.

 

[jdub]

Might want to check the CPS wiring and connector as well.

 

[BigKO]

Hmm the clip on my CPS wire is broken, it holds together fine but the little raised portion that slides into the connector is busted slightly.

---------- Post added at 04:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:09 PM ----------

But it is still snug and difficult to pull apart. By no means sliding out.

 

[koreyd]

mine waws cooked in an engine fire and as long as the opins stay together it should be all good. but fix any broken wires, doing the cps wiggle to get the car running is't a very good idea just going to break more wires. i find that 20 + year old wires and hard and brittle and should be replaceed

 

[BigKO]

Well yeah i dont have to wiggle them at all to get it to start, just what I desccribed before. LOL just having trouble getting the time to do even these simple things

 

[BigKO]

Yeah, no CPS wiggle is needed to start the car. ALSO, I tried the Igniter ground wiring trick, and the problem still persists. I also looked at and cleaned up my ground wire to my coil packs and nothing. All ground wires that I know of have been replaced and are hooked up on the car.

Another explanation, car will start fine, has good oil pressure, etc. What does happen however, is that the coolant temp gauge isn't working, and the fluid is also not flowing through the motor. (rad isn't getting hot or pressurized. Keep in mind that this is sitting at idle, and I just installed a 3 row mishimoto as well. I have no idea how long it should take for it to warm up. (any ideas?)

The running problem is as follows, the car will start up fine, and idle well (i don't here misfiring). It revs up smooth with no missing, however when the revs come back down , the wont stop going down. They will just drop, make a feeble attempt to save itself and die. By tapping the throttle I can save it from dying. I hope this helps some. Would a video help?

I doubt that the coolant problem and the weird idle problem are related. But, decided to list both in case by some weird thing unknown to me they are. These are the only two things plaguing my car at the moment. I am open to ideas.

Also jdub, the cps jiggle does nothing lol.

 

[BigKO]

UPDATE:: Cleared codes by pulling EFI fuse. After performing the igniter ground mod, it no longer sets code 14. In fact there are no codes, but it still does as described. Leads me to believe timing? I'm just doing guess and check stuff here.

 

[Nick M]

What does happen however, is that the coolant temp gauge isn't working, and the fluid is also not flowing through the motor. (rad isn't getting hot or pressurized. Keep in mind that this is sitting at idle, and I just installed a 3 row mishimoto as well. I have no idea how long it should take for it to warm up. (any ideas?)

Seems like the thermostat isn't opening. Maybe you have a big air pocket.

The running problem is as follows, the car will start up fine, and idle well (i don't here misfiring). It revs up smooth with no missing, however when the revs come back down , the wont stop going down. They will just drop, make a feeble attempt to save itself and die. By tapping the throttle I can save it from dying. I hope this helps some.

You have a hot running problem. The Idle Speed Circuit (ISC) is temp controlled. So the coolant problem is in fact a problem. Try this. When it is ready to die, be outside the car, and lightly tap on tap on the ISC valve. LIGHTLY. Just to make sure it isn't sticking.

I doubt that the coolant problem and the weird idle problem are related.

Why would you doubt it? The correction needed for hot and cold are different.

 

[koreyd]

couldn't it be the tps isn't set coreectly or is junk causing the car to think that the throttle plate is constantly moving. i also had that surge problem 600 1200 600 1200 sometimes reved to about 2200. i checked my tps and replaced no more surge for me. mabe u have a mean air leak. air sneaking into the intake somewhere. idles then sucks air up idle isc trys to keep up. then idle. sucks air revs increase. good luck. i just finished na-t with full turbo electronics. actually i made my 90 na a complete turbo car except for the block. i have had so many problems all at the same time. i should be bald. but now i only have a smoking problem. i have be trying to figure it all out for about four years now.

---------- Post added at 08:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 AM ----------

ur coolant prblem is very bad. sure u have it all plumbed right if u are sure that coolant isn't flowing. i would begin by testing the waterpump and all sensors connected to the water neck. maybe there is a block in a line. have u try jacking up the front end and burping the radiator to make sure there isn't a large air bubbble in the heater core or something like that. here where i live its easy there are hills everywhere park facing up a hill pull the rad cap start car. keeping pouring collant until it stops taking it. ie overflowing . let it run for about 5 min with cap off and refill if neccessary.

 

[jetjock]

... mabe u have a mean air leak. air sneaking into the intake somewhere. idles then sucks air up idle isc trys to keep up. then idle. sucks air revs increase. ...

It's tough to decipher that but of you're implying a vacuum leak will raise idle speed, it won't.

 

[BigKO]

OK guys! Thanks for the numerous suggestions you seem to be leading me down the train of thought i was beginning to follow. However, as you mentioned the problem with the thermostat, it is new. I had replaced it recently. BUT, because weird things fail, I tested it (pot of water test) and it worked fine. This lead me to believe that because my gauge wasn't working,and that it wasn't flowing. Apparently with the new three row radiator it takes a LONG time to warm up to operating temps. The thermostat finally opened on the car, and pressurized etc. But, gauge still doesn't work.

Also, I did ANOTHER inspection of my lines, and noticed that there was one tube (fat one next to the 3000 pipe that goes into round black thing on intake manifold... that i cant remember the name of...) it seems to be running MUCH better now. It seems to have been a conjunction of the bad ground to the igniter and a crack in the aforementioned pipe. I dont want to conclude that it is fixed, because after replacing that hose i havent had much time to continue messing with it. SO, I'll update you this weekend with anything further.

---------- Post added at 04:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:55 PM ----------

sorry, i just remembered the name of what i was talking about in the above post, it was indeed the black hose running the the iscv valve. Upon removing it to check thoroughly, I noticed that there was a fairly large crack on both ends on the bottom so that they were not visible unless it was removed. This was replaced and I noticed improvement (AKA problem went away). However I am going to check it again this weekend when I get back from school and make sure that there is no additional problems.

SIDE NOTE::: Do i need to remove the entire dash to replace/repair my temperature gauge? Also does the blinker/headlight switch on the steerin column effect anything engine related? Because my switch is faulty, causing the dash lights, and headlights to flicker on and off iff wiggled or moved. I also noticed that when it flickered, the idle speed increased to about 1000 RPMS and gradually lowered itselg back down to the proper idling speed. There was an immediate and direct correlation to the idle speed and lights flickering. Maybe causing a weird short inside the switch?? I have another switch I am going to replace it with soon. SORRY FOR THE essays