Trouble Replacing Turbo

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Hi all, so I got a CT26 with a 57Trim upgrade, now I'm in the process of installing it and have been running into many hurdles along the way. Most of them being problems with screws. On the 2 top screws connecting the turbo to the turbo elbow, the bolts holding them down are completely stripped. I had to use Craftsman specialty tool that will remove stripped nuts. Did so, so I'm definitely going to need new bolts. Aside from that I thought I was in the clear. Turns out that the bolt holding down the oil feed line is as well impossible to take off. I've used PB Blaster on all of the screws and bolts and even left them sitting overnight, still no results. As of right now I'm completely stuck on how to remove it. Anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks, Dimitris.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
GrimJack;1275108 said:
Pull the oil lines off the block instead of the turbo.

It's MUCH easier to pull the lines off the turbo when you have it on the bench.

The problem is, I actually am trying to pull it off the block. That lone bolt that's just sitting on the block with the oil feed line connecting to it correct? I believe it's a 12mm. I've tried everything so far that I can without damaging anything. Have removed bottom S-shaped IC hose and piping to get to it, no avail. Even removed some coolant hoses and still haven't gotten anywhere. PB Blaster, Impact wrench, nothing is working out so far for me :aigo:
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
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There are three - two nuts and a bolt. The two nuts hold on the oil return line - the fat one. The bolt holds on the oil feed line, and goes through a banjo fitting on the slender one.

I've always pulled this from the top. Pull off all the heat shields you can, pull off the turbo braces, lube up your arms with KY Jelly (every decent mechanic should have a big jar of this stuff in the shop, it works wonders) then slide 'em down the side holding a ratchet, extension, and the right size socket and GIVE 'er.

PS: I also use KY to put on coolant hoses. It's water based, so it doesn't affect the rubber hoses, and it makes them slip on super easy.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
GrimJack;1275118 said:
There are three - two nuts and a bolt. The two nuts hold on the oil return line - the fat one. The bolt holds on the oil feed line, and goes through a banjo fitting on the slender one.

I've always pulled this from the top. Pull off all the heat shields you can, pull off the turbo braces, lube up your arms with KY Jelly (every decent mechanic should have a big jar of this stuff in the shop, it works wonders) then slide 'em down the side holding a ratchet, extension, and the right size socket and GIVE 'er.

PS: I also use KY to put on coolant hoses. It's water based, so it doesn't affect the rubber hoses, and it makes them slip on super easy.

Ahh, well actually I've already removed the Oil Return Line nuts. Turbo braces have been removed, all the heat shields that I could possibly remove have been removed. I'll take a picture right now so show what exactly I'm working with..Give me a second.
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
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Macon, GA
So is the bolt just too tight to loosen or is it stripped? It shouldn't be that hard..Oh and there are two crush washers on the oil feed bolt going into the block. Be sure not to lose those when you do get it off.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
WhtMa71;1275126 said:
So is the bolt just too tight to loosen or is it stripped? It shouldn't be that hard..Oh and there are two crush washers on the oil feed bolt going into the block. Be sure not to lose those when you do get it off.

A little bit of both, it's too tight to get off. And any tool I use seems to catch but when pressure is applied it slips. :|
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
Here are the pictures.

img4885.jpg

img4886o.jpg

img4887.jpg

img4888.jpg

img4889h.jpg
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
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Yea that bolt is just about rounded off..

You might have to resort to more creative ways to get it off like specialty tools or a vise grip. First try putting a piece of duct/masking tape over the bolt, slip the socket back on and give it one last try. Make sure you're using a 6 point not a 12pt socket.

Definitely replace the bolt with a new one when you get it off.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
WhtMa71;1275150 said:
Yea that bolt is just about rounded off..

You might have to resort to more creative ways to get it off like specialty tools or a vise grip. First try putting a piece of duct/masking tape over the bolt, slip the socket back on and give it one last try. Make sure you're using a 6 point not a 12pt socket.

Definitely replace the bolt with a new one when you get it off.

Well I do have a few specialty tools at my disposal. Nut Breaker, which in this case won't be useful, and the head which is used to remove stripped bolts/nuts. Only problem is those don't seem to catch either even though it's not very stripped just rounded a little. Started off with 6pt, then moved on to the 12pt, having no luck with either. I'll be sure to try the duct/masking tape right now. Even the impact wrench I have isn't doing anything, can't even get it to budge. :[.
 

WhtMa71

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Apr 24, 2007
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Do the duct tape thing. Get the right sized socket(you might have to lightly tap it on with a hammer) and get a breaker bar so you have some leverage. You will probably have to get in some funky position on top of the motor.lol
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
WhtMa71;1275162 said:
Do the duct tape thing. Get the right sized socket(you might have to lightly tap it on with a hammer) and get a breaker bar so you have some leverage. You will probably have to get in some funky position on top of the motor.lol

Lol, alright stick around for a bith then. Cause I'll give this a try and then come back, but after the duct tape if that doesn't work I'll try the strip sockets. Be back in like 5 min.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
K, gave that all a try, and still getting nowhere quick. :3d_frown:
Don't even have enough room to get a good hammer in and hammer them down. Even tried adding something to hit the hammer on to knock the socket in. Still nothing..anymore ideas?
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
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Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
That bolt should be pretty easy to just tear the head off, it's a hollow bolt. If that happens, you'll be pulling the rest out of the block with vice grips!

The bolt extractor sockets should get a good enough grip to tear it out, though.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
GrimJack;1275183 said:
That bolt should be pretty easy to just tear the head off, it's a hollow bolt. If that happens, you'll be pulling the rest out of the block with vice grips!

The bolt extractor sockets should get a good enough grip to tear it out, though.

Yeah I would have though so too, but they aren't. Main thing is that I can't get the hammer in there to secure it all the way down, after I take a turn with the socket wrench it just loosens and comes off. Can't keep it down. I have a nut splitter, will that help at all?
 

WhtMa71

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Apr 24, 2007
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I'd try to remove the whole thing first. Just keep trying. With your specialty tool tape and a socket. Just try a lot of small taps to get it down on the head of the bolt.
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
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Richmond, BC, Canada
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Not enough room in there to swing a hammer, that's for sure. If you can find the right length in extensions you might be able to brace it against the frame rail...

You could *try* to pull the oil lines from the bottom of the turbo instead, but that's tough to do.

Worst case, you can always cut that line, pull the turbo out, then you should have enough room for a hammer / vice grips / whatever it takes to get that SOB out. It's available for ~$115 from Jay Marks or Vancouver Toyota.
 

dimixtron

cbhxb
Jan 22, 2008
73
0
0
Downey, CA
GrimJack;1275188 said:
Not enough room in there to swing a hammer, that's for sure. If you can find the right length in extensions you might be able to brace it against the frame rail...

You could *try* to pull the oil lines from the bottom of the turbo instead, but that's tough to do.

Worst case, you can always cut that line, pull the turbo out, then you should have enough room for a hammer / vice grips / whatever it takes to get that SOB out. It's available for ~$115 from Jay Marks or Vancouver Toyota.

Yeah, but that's a big b****. Not easy to get something there to unscrew it either. I've tried several times already, lol. I even tried from under the car and sticking my arm and hand through, that didn't help at all. What piece specifically? The oil feed line?

Oh and I forgot, I am going to need new gaskets and DEFINITELY new nuts, screws, and bolts whatever it may be. But with this upgrade since I have things taken apart I'm going to order a BIC DDP, BIC 3in Test Pipe, also possibly electric cutout. But I can't get anywhere without bolting on this turbo...Lol.
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
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Macon, GA
The first time I did it I removed the nuts for the oil feed from the turbo. It was a PITA and took a while but I got it done..somehow.