Transmission Codes :( Car no Go..... Help :/

[Sside]

Hey guys, been working on this thing for 3 years and everyday I am closer to losing this car due to the inability to keep it running for more than 3 months.... It my DD and I need it for school.... On sunday as I was heading for church when my car just simply stopped shifting into first gear..... When I got home I pulled some codes on the transmission and got 61 62 64..... The transmission was swapped about 8 months ago for a 1jz auto..... The selenoid wiring was not the same as my harness soo I had to solder the right wires... I assumed something went wrong and they came lose soo I got under there and checked it out confident that would be my problem but everything was in order.... I disconected the battery for a few min and then trieddriving the car around again to see the same codes appeared.... This time I only code 62.... The codes are pointing towards my lock up selenoid and my selenoid 1...... Problem is I know nothing of transmission and have no idea where to go from here, I do have some selenoids that I salvaged from my old transmission and was thinking of dropping the pan and putting it in but first I wanted to see what yall think... Any suggestions before I drop the pan.... Reason I dont want to drop the pan is because I have no $$ right now for a filter kit and new atf...... Any help would be greatly appriciate it ...... Thank you

 

[Nick M]

The solenoids are either off or on to give you 4 speeds. If it feels like you are in 3rd, you probably are. A quick check is to unplug the trans and let it shift using hydraulic pressures only. If it drives normal, it is an electrical/control problem and not the valve body itself. Electrical includes the solenoids in the valvebody.

 

[Sside]

Thank you soo much Nick..... And yeah, the car does feel like its in 3rd. When driving it in "manual" all the gears seem to be okay soo I am pretty sure its not mechanical.... So what you think? drop the pan and swap the selenoids? looks like my best option so far :/.....

 

[radiod]

Hey guys, been working on this thing for 3 years and everyday I am closer to losing this car due to the inability to keep it running for more than 3 months.... It my DD and I need it for school....

Stop right there for a second. If you are having issues enough that you are thinking of getting rid of the car because of DD dependability, I would very much suggest looking to pick up a second beater car. Something that isn't pretty but will dependably get you from a to b. Nothing is worse than trying to rush through a job because you need it up and running. You don't need both insured at the same time, just so you have the option to switch insurance if the Supra goes down and can still get to school/work/etc the next day.

 

[Sside]

Stop right there for a second. If you are having issues enough that you are thinking of getting rid of the car because of DD dependability, I would very much suggest looking to pick up a second beater car. Something that isn't pretty but will dependably get you from a to b. Nothing is worse than trying to rush through a job because you need it up and running. You don't need both insured at the same time, just so you have the option to switch insurance if the Supra goes down and can still get to school/work/etc the next day.

I'm currently using my dad's truck to get around so for now the car is in the garage resting, It is not urgent for me to get it running asap for now as when I made the thread early yesterday..... But I still want to get this sorted out for peace of mind that my supra is going to be okay. I hate to depend on my dad again because my car went down again and the family keeps telling me to sell the car because its always down..... I would LOVE a dd, a little sentra or civic or w/e but there is just no way I'm getting one at this point.... The times that I did open up to making the move when I had the money always put me in the spot of "you can take those 2-3000 dollars and invest them in the mk3 and make the car more reliable". The car has come a looooooong way when it comes to the non fun but important stuff yet time always gets the best of her... I'm prob gonna drop the pan, change the selenoids and put in valvoline atf in there just in case it does not work and I have to drain it again.... If it works Ill get some Toyota ATF and the strainer should be new by then...... I think so far its my only option..... I couldnt bare swapping in another transmission, that night was hell.... Got home from the shop at 4 am and couldnt even sleep from how exhausted I was....

 

[supra1jz]

I would say before you buy any part check all wires on the harness going to the transmission I have seen many problems where wires burn together and cause it to throw thoses code it happen to my buddy's supra and he replaced the selenoid an still the same problem quick check can save you money and a headache.

 

[Sside]

I would say before you buy any part check all wires on the harness going to the transmission I have seen many problems where wires burn together and cause it to throw thoses code it happen to my buddy's supra and he replaced the selenoid an still the same problem quick check can save you money and a headache.

Great idea, before I replace anything I am going to do a closer investigation of the wires and I believe the tsrm has a section on how to check if the selenoids are good with an ohmeter.... Thanks.....

 

[Nick M]

Thank you soo much Nick..... And yeah, the car does feel like its in 3rd. When driving it in "manual" all the gears seem to be okay soo I am pretty sure its not mechanical.... So what you think? drop the pan and swap the selenoids? looks like my best option so far :/.....

I wouldn't do that unless I had a reason to change them. Use the following page plus the next one. That should narrow it down real quick.



http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=23

 

[Sside]

I went ahead and dropped the pan anyways since I needed to change the strainer and oil so while I was at it I changed the selenoids for ones I had laying around from my last transmission.... Nothing changed, the car is still slow out of first well its not even first to start with... I have checked wiring and even redid the wiring and all checks out fine... Now there is something very weird going on with my ect ecu because for some reason code 62 will not got away.... I have tried disconecting the battery, dome fuse, ect ecu connector and I still get the same code...... Sign of a bad ecu? I hope sooo..... What yall think?

 

[Sside]

Just checked my ect ecu harness and transmission selenoid wiring.... Everything is just wrong and makes 0 sense..... Off my ect ecu I have 3 wires. White wire= Selenoid 1) (Black Wire Selenoid 2) ( Yellow Wire = Selenoid 3)... When I dropped the pan I looked at selenoids harness and bingo, white = selenoid 1 , black selenoid 2, yellow lock up..... If I hook it up the way its suppose to be the car shuts downs in D.... The way it was and the only way the car does not shut down and was working for months was White from the transmission to black on the ect, black on the transmission to yellow on ect and yellow from trtansmission to white on ect..... Also the Ect ecu will not stop giving me code 62 regardless of how long I leave battery off....... I'm starting to suspect more and more on the ect........ If anyone can please help me with this I would greatly appriciate it....

 

[Sside]

Ok, I'm trying to not let this beat me...... So I went ahead and checked the voltage coming out from my ect ecu on the harness, the tsrm says that s1 (selenoid 1) White cable should output 12 volts..... Instead I get 0 volts from the s1 and 12 volts from s2 and sl... I am suppose to have 12 volts at s1 and 0 volts at s2/sl yet I have 0 volts on s1 and 12 volts on s2 and sl.... Is this even more of a sign that my ect is bad and if so does that mean that if I swap it for another ect I am suppose to now connect everything they way it should go? white white, black black and yellow yellow...... I feel like I am getting closer to fixing this...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=30