timing, is that the question...

monkihead

driven to thrill
Jul 23, 2005
93
0
0
texas
car starts, has a rough idle for the first minute when i don't start it for a few hours(overnight). once on, idles fine. while pretty much cold i can drive off and the car feels good in 1st and some of second. as i start to hit 4k in 3rd and 4th, it doesn't pull as hard. I can also notice that if i ease on to the throttle, it accelerates quicker than mashing WOT. 5th gear pulls as the same easing on the throttle or flooring it.

*after on a 2-3hr drive, at a stop it occasionally will rev up and down. I can tap the throttle and it will either go to normal(650/700 rpm) or die.

what I'm debating is to drive the car with the computer grounded-to not advance. but, not sure if thats a good idea.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
0
0
Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
"Ground the computer so it doesn't advance"? How exactly would you go about that? Do you mean run it in diag mode all the time? That wouldn't be wise. Just fix whatever is wrong with the engine.

Your idle problem sounds like an intermittent IDL signal, either caused by a bad TPS or a linkage problem. The way to check for that would be to run with a meter or led connected to the signal so you can see it in the cockpit. Either that or next time it happens jump out and check codes without blipping the throttle. One reason why it's good to have a switch inside the car for diag mode. Mine is in the glove box.
 

monkihead

driven to thrill
Jul 23, 2005
93
0
0
texas
checked my codes, 1st time around i had way too many. cleared them, drove around and checked again. I'm getting the water temp(i expected that one) and #52 knock sensor. would the knock sensor kill off my power over 4k rpm?
 

monkihead

driven to thrill
Jul 23, 2005
93
0
0
texas
repaired 2nd o2 sensor, had become severed from harness. won't be able to drive till this evening, am low on gas.
 

monkihead

driven to thrill
Jul 23, 2005
93
0
0
texas
well I'll be a monkeys @rse. i get a fluttering like a rev limiter at 2k rpm, but i think its the harness. did it once, will be changing the fouled out plugs and inspecting the rest of the harness.
 

7MGTEsup

Formerly 'Down but not out'
Jun 14, 2005
614
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England
Water temp? as in a code 22?? This will cause you all sorts of grife, as the ECU has no idea what the engine temp is.
 

hottscennessey

DONT BE A BITCH!
Jun 3, 2005
3,137
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36
37
Richmond, VA
^actually the ECU defaults to safe working temperature. It has certain fail-safes. But I agree it can't hurt to fix this.. but it's not 'the' problem.
 

7MGTEsup

Formerly 'Down but not out'
Jun 14, 2005
614
0
0
England
hottscennessey said:
^actually the ECU defaults to safe working temperature. It has certain fail-safes. But I agree it can't hurt to fix this.. but it's not 'the' problem.

Yes it defaults to 175*f but that won't be much good on a cold start.
 

monkihead

driven to thrill
Jul 23, 2005
93
0
0
texas
we've recently received a cold draft these past few days and car is a pain to start. I never worried about it before because its usually warm here. it turned out to be the 2nd knock sensor wasn't connected. wire had frayed and wasn't making contact. runs great now.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
0
0
Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Just fyi but faulty knock sensor wiring couldn't possibly have anything to do with a cold starting problem. Ignition timing is fixed until 500 rpm is crossed. In fact the microprocessor in the ECU isn't even involved with timing until then. That wiring would've been the source of your code 52 though and would certainly make a difference in how the engine runs at other times.