Throwing on a Driftmotion CT2657trim - Headgasket First??

755hp

755hp

Goal - 755hp
Jul 19, 2012
164
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Tri-State Area & MI
DeMoN2318;2044677 said:
I would... just retorque the bolts (one at a time, crack loose, then torque)

Pulling the head just opens doors for more issues to arise...what if you pull the head and the block is pitted? You gonna pull the block and have it surfaced? Or just gonna roll with it?

You gonna do cam seals while you have the head off? Water pump? Timing belt? Gonna do adjustable cam gears?

It will spiral out of control...hoses, lines, little misc stuff...it'll turn into a big expensive job.

I also hear its tough to get the head back on the block with ARP studs and the block installed in the car.

Why not just run it till it blows? Then fix it? As long as you pay attention to temp and birdcage, occasionally check fluid to make sure it didn't drop...you should notice the bhg when it happens, and before it causes more damage

Thats the route I'm going
Click to expand...
Well, I did call someone at Sound Performance on this matter and they suggested doing the HG job however, they did suggest that if I've never done this before to at least replace the stock bolts with the Arps studs without removing the head. I'm going to at least do that if not the whole HG job.

Sigh....all I know is, if I don't do the full HG job (new stock HG and Arp studs), I'm not going to feel comfortable putting my foot/gas pedal to the floor w/ this 57trim and lex550s setup. I'm going to feel like I'm about to blow the f**k up which will cause me to drive very conservatively (not fun). Lol ...not saying I wanna drive hard either way, just saying, I need a "peace of mind" when I go pedal-to-the-metal.

As for the cam seals, they were leaking oil when I got my Supra back in 2013 Oct.; took me forever to build confidence to get the job done but I replaced them in June 2014. As for the water pump, I purchased it in July 2014 and....confidence gained thus, I did it in Oct 2014 after blowing the second coolant hose. I will be doing the timing belt regardless of a full HG replacement or Arps studs only or retorque. And vacuum hoses will also get replaced as I go along this process.

It is what it is....its just that before owning this Supra (my first ever) I've been reading up on these forums (mainly Supraforums daily since 2008) about BHG issues/nightmares with 7M engines....and simply put, it scares me....I don't need that life; increase boost or and detonation, BHG, contaminants in bottom end, spin rods - rebuild....I don't need that life. Maybe, I've been on Supraforums (daily far too long) and thats why I'm paranoid about this BHG issues on 7Ms. Ptsss, I can't remember the last time I took my 7M to redline....had to be back in the summer on the 1/8mile pass I did...

I don't mean to be annoying but I'm trying to save my 7M from savagery.
 
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Nick M

Nick M

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755hp;2044681 said:
Well, I did call someone at Sound Performance on this matter and they suggested doing the HG job however, they did suggest that if I've never done this before to at least replace the stock bolts with the Arps studs without removing the head. I'm going to at least do that if not the whole HG job.
Click to expand...

Why?

Sigh....all I know is, if I don't do the full HG job (new stock HG and Arp studs), I'm not going to feel comfortable
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with doing it right the first time. Be sure you price that Fel Pro gasket.
 
DeMoN2318

DeMoN2318

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May 24, 2012
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No offense to Sound...but that's opposite of what you should do, for two main reasons.

Removing the bolt completely will releave the clamp load and further risk bhg.

To install studs, you need to bottom chase the holes...or you risk cracking the block...doing with the head installed is probably impossible (never tried so can't say for certain)

If you won't be able to enjoy the car then just do the HG and be confident and enjoy it
 
755hp

755hp

Goal - 755hp
Jul 19, 2012
164
0
0
Tri-State Area & MI
DeMoN2318;2044687 said:
No offense to Sound...but that's opposite of what you should do, for two main reasons.

Removing the bolt completely will releave the clamp load and further risk bhg.

To install studs, you need to bottom chase the holes...or you risk cracking the block...doing with the head installed is probably impossible (never tried so can't say for certain)

If you won't be able to enjoy the car then just do the HG and be confident and enjoy it
Click to expand...
Yea man, sorry to be annoying with the paranoid HG issues but the forums stories have taught me to be this way (not to mention rebuild stories, spun bearings 1000miles later and rebuild AGAIN)....stories that is (not advice). Lol

Also, wouldn't the process of retorque'ing the stock bolts loosen the "clamping load" of the head to block also?? If so, wouldn't it be the same for removing the stock bolts and installing the Arp studs?? The guys at Sound Performance are amazing, unless they hate me (cause I do call them a lot for small advice here/there), I don't think they would give me bad advice.
 
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black89t

black89t

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if anything id crank them down to 75ftbls and roll with it till it actually pops the head gasket. could go 2 weeks or 2 years non of us can tell you that. what i can tell you though is don't bother with arp studs just get the bolts for a in car hg repair. theyre easier to install and the studs offer no benefit as the issue with the 7m is the soft heads from being over heated has nothing to do with bolt strength. after the hg is torque down right of course. the stock 7m head bolt is actually larger than the 2jz. on my truck ive had a felpro hg and stock head bolts torqued to 75flbls and its been good since 2011. ran it on like 12psi for a couple years now its on 7psi for gas mileage on stock turbo. to properly install the studs you have to clean the threads really good (its a pita) where as the bolts you just install just like stock one just with their moly lube.
 
755hp

755hp

Goal - 755hp
Jul 19, 2012
164
0
0
Tri-State Area & MI
black89t;2044706 said:
if anything id crank them down to 75ftbls and roll with it till it actually pops the head gasket. could go 2 weeks or 2 years non of us can tell you that. what i can tell you though is don't bother with arp studs just get the bolts for a in car hg repair. theyre easier to install and the studs offer no benefit as the issue with the 7m is the soft heads from being over heated has nothing to do with bolt strength. after the hg is torque down right of course. the stock 7m head bolt is actually larger than the 2jz. on my truck ive had a felpro hg and stock head bolts torqued to 75flbls and its been good since 2011. ran it on like 12psi for a couple years now its on 7psi for gas mileage on stock turbo. to properly install the studs you have to clean the threads really good (its a pita) where as the bolts you just install just like stock one just with their moly lube.
Click to expand...

Too late for me I guess; I already placed the order for a new stock 7M headgasket and Arps Studs (not bolts) last week; they should be here soon. Its going to be tough now. It's looking like I'm going to need an engine lift to deal with installing the head with the studs already in the block...$$$. Sigh...

Possible Engine Lift: http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69512-9073.html

Or could I just install the head (align w/ dowel pins) and then drop the studs through?? I didn't even foresee this stud installation problem coming. Had I know a week early, I might have gone with the bolts.
 
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SideWinderGX

SideWinderGX

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The first time I did my HG I left the block in the car and used an OEM Toyota HG, put the new dowel pins in, had my Dad help me drop the head back on then inserted the studs through the head.

It's a pain in the ass because you need to put gasket maker on the front part of the HG and if you drop the HG the wrong way it will smear the gasket compound and you'll have to fix it before trying again.
 
DeMoN2318

DeMoN2318

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755hp;2044847 said:
Too late for me I guess; I already placed the order for a new stock 7M headgasket and Arps Studs (not bolts) last week; they should be here soon. Its going to be tough now. It's looking like I'm going to need an engine lift to deal with installing the head with the studs already in the block...$$$. Sigh...

Possible Engine Lift: http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69512-9073.html

Or could I just install the head (align w/ dowel pins) and then drop the studs through?? I didn't even foresee this stud installation problem coming. Had I know a week early, I might have gone with the bolts.
Click to expand...


Just return the studs...and buy bolts...
 
Nick M

Nick M

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Don't you love everybody's two cents? But then again, this is an internet forum. PT 9473

The composite part is the facing to get a good seal on imperfect parts.
 
Backlash2032

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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There's not really any point in ARP bolts. Stock bolts are nearly just as strong. and if you're snapping head bolts... You're doing something wrong.
 
755hp

755hp

Goal - 755hp
Jul 19, 2012
164
0
0
Tri-State Area & MI
SideWinderGX;2044866 said:
The first time I did my HG I left the block in the car and used an OEM Toyota HG, put the new dowel pins in, had my Dad help me drop the head back on then inserted the studs through the head.

It's a pain in the ass because you need to put gasket maker on the front part of the HG and if you drop the HG the wrong way it will smear the gasket compound and you'll have to fix it before trying again.
Click to expand...
I think I'm going try and do it that way....either that or I'll need to get an engine lift.

And by the way SideWinder....you're welcome to take the two hour trip over from Syracuse to my place to help out/give guidance. Lol I don't wanna screw this process up.
 
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3p141592654

3p141592654

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Blackmk3

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You can have the block all prepped with all the studs in and ready except the last two at the black and two people will be able to lower the head onto the block easily. Then just wind the last two studs down from the top.

You say you don't want this life of having to deal with spun bearings and rebuilds but your heading your life for it. Your already in the supra game and run the risk of those things happening, these are old cars with multiple previous owners. Do yourself a favor, you seem like a clued up guy that has done plenty of research, your the kind of owner these cars need when they get old so and do the head gasket job and do it properly.
Then you have less chance of "entering that life" where coolant will be contaminating the bottom end and further damaging your engine.
 
Nick M

Nick M

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Stepchild21;2044899 said:
Shouldn't be doing that with the stock bolts since they're torque to yield.
Click to expand...

Do you have red hair? Take note of the correction regarding the Toyota bolts as they are not torque to yield.
 
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