t wanna change out my clutch at home

[chefma70]

how difficult will it be on a scale of 1-10 ?im thinking its gona b a breeze.

drain the tranny fluid,8bolts on the crossmember/bar,one on the eexhaust,remove drive shaft,two jacks for support right?

i want someone who has changed thier clutch at home to tell me how hard this job will b. any special tools required?

your help would help make this alot easier

 

[pnutcar]

put car up on jackstands. Have a buddy to help you. You're going to need like 3' of extensions and a swivel. Safety glasses are nice to keep dirt and grime out of your eyes. Make sure you use new bolts. Its not hard once you do it once.

Me and a buddy just slide it out and lower it, then benchpress it back in.

 

[EdT.Mk3]

I'd rate it at 5, though I've done it twice and the first time seemed like a 9 because it was the first time. I was working on a 2J/R154 with super.secret.supra.club:

A rolling transmission jack was a huge help, I borrowed it from Robert at 935. I found an 'extended' 17mm wrench at Sears(?) that was slightly angled and made life easier for getting at some of the bolts between the engine/firewall. Don't forget to replace the rear main seal. Also picked up some ARP flywheel bolts while we were at it, those weren't expensive.

 

[Poodles]

Tranny jack makes it stupidly easy to do... Took more time to get the car up high enough on the jack stands than it did to actually do the job...

 

[Fozbo]

Just got done doing it for the third time.

Old and worn out motor mounts makes getting to the bolts on the top of the transmission easy when you unbolt the rear transmission mount; new, stiffer MKIV mounts makes it a bit harder P). The hardest thing to do is getting at those two bolts up top. I found it was much easier when you have a couple long extensions with a swivel between them and come at them from a little farther back along the transmission than you might think. It also helps if you have a buddy guiding the socket from the engine bay.

Getting the clutch fork pin in the right place can be a little bit of a PITA with the razor sharp edges of the bell housing and limited space inside for your hand and the fork.

Also, don't disconnect the drive shaft. Just unbolt the carrier bearing, the bar that traps the drive shaft, and the rear of the transmission and lower it all down (the drive shaft should pull out).

Stabbing the transmission is a little difficult since you have to have it aligned almost perfectly in a very tight tunnel. I have a transmission jack, but it was really only good for getting it to the general level. I would definitely spend more money on one that has multiple tilt adjustments.

Snap ring pliers might be of some help when taking the release bearing / pulling assembly off of the old pressure plate and putting them back on the new stuff later (or you can just take a little more time with a couple flat-head screw drivers).

Don't forget the sensor wires that run over the top of the transmission.