symptoms of crank walk on 1jz???

[mk3tattoos]

so yesterday i started hearing a tapping/clicking noise, rpms drop down to 500 rpms when I push in the clutch and today i had my wife press in the clutch while i watched the crank and i saw it move a slight bit

im not sure what to do in this situation, i dont know much about crankwalk so any help whould be greatly appreciated!!

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You were using a stage 2 clutch, what was the pressure plate rating? I spoke to Aaron about this and he said that he has seen crankwalk on stock clutch cars, so the clutch has something to do with it but not all.

You will need to pull the pan and replace the bearings along with thrust washers. Hope the crank is fine as well. If you need a crank, I hope you don't, let me know. I have a 1JZ crank.

You can also bypass the neutral safety switch to avoid stress on the crank when starting the car since the thrust washers get oil from the spalsh that goes on in the oil pan.

Why is your engine idling at 500RPM? It is supposed to be at 800RPM. A tick at that low of an RPM could be a loss of oil pressure in the head which will cause the shims to tick. I know because my 7M was having idling problems when we finished it due to a bad AFM and it could cause that ticking noise when the RPM went down to 500RPM. All lashes were in spec as well and it still ticked at the lower idle.

 

[mk3tattoos]

Not sure what the pressure plate is at, it was already in the car when I got it.
I did the clutch bypass this morning.

My idle is normal, but when I push in the clutch is when it drops to 500rpms.

The ticking sound that happends when I push in my clutch, is coming from under the car around the clutch area.
Thanks for the response and help!!!!

 

[destrux]

Ticking sound is probably from the crank moving and something rubbing on something it normally wouldn't.

I've heard 2g eclipses with bad crankwalk that ticked like that.

 

[mk3tattoos]

Well that's a bummer looks like I'll be pulling the motor out and fixxing it soon!!!
So I should do the trust washers, bearings, and is there anything else o should do while I have the engine out?

Thanks!!!

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Why are you pulling the motor? Get a video up. Pull the valve covers and check your valve clearances.

Exhaust .010-.014 thou
Intake .006-.010 thou

Post if any are out of spec. Your oil pressure will drop and can cause any noises if your idle drops that low. Figure out why it is dropping that low. My 7M idled at 800 RPM but never dropped 300 RPMs when pressing the clutch pedal.

Take out your ISCV and make sure it is clean. Have someone key on your ignition and see if you can feel the valve move. Check to see if your TPS is adjusted right. Use the 2JZ specs. Check the resistance with no load on the cable bracket.

If everything checks out and you end up pulling the motor. What is your budget and then I will recommend what you should do.

 

[D.J.T.]

This problem happens to me but i completely rebuilt the engine with a crank kit? push the clutch & RPM goes up?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

This problem happens to me but i completely rebuilt the engine with a crank kit? push the clutch & RPM goes up?

Push the clutch and rpm goes up is normal. I see it happen on out of factory new cars with a manual gearbox.

The only time I have seen the RPM go down is if you let out the clutch too quick and don't use the gas to avoid stalling.

 

[mk3tattoos]

This problem happens to me but i completely rebuilt the engine with a crank kit? push the clutch & RPM goes up?

When I push in the clutch the rpm's drop and sometimes the engine has even stalled out. I only hear ticking when I push in the clutch, only ticking noise in the engine bay is my injectors.

Inbaughtasupra- don't I need to pull the engine to fix the crank from moving? I'm pretty sure my valves are good, when using a screwdriver likw a stethascope I can not hear anything ticking in the head.
Thanks alot fir helping fellas!!

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You can actually see the crank moving?

Page 74 in this link will help you determine if that was your problem when you pull your engine.

http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80 TSRM/EM (2JZ-GTE).pdf

 

[hvyman]

Happens on the 2jz as well. Mostly from start ups. Bypass the clutch safety switch and start the car without pushing in the clutch in neutral.

 

[mk3tattoos]

Ya in my first post I stated I saw it move

And I already did the switch thing.

 

[jza71]

Been there, done that. Its cheaper to buy another good use 1jz.

 

[mk3tattoos]

I might just go 1.5jz, at the end of summer.
Sad day though, it's always something!

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You can go 1.5 if you like but in the mean time, just gather parts so you won't feel the burden of paying all at once. Decide if you want to go 1.5 or stay 1JZ first.

The person above stated it would be cheaper to buy a used 1JZ again but it is better to rebuild your own because you will know what you have instead of "another used 1JZ."

 

[mk3tattoos]

You can go 1.5 if you like but in the mean time, just gather parts so you won't feel the burden of paying all at once. Decide if you want to go 1.5 or stay 1JZ first.

The person above stated it would be cheaper to buy a used 1JZ again but it is better to rebuild your own because you will know what you have instead of "another used 1JZ."

Very true! I think it would be best to rebuild it as well. I've been wanting to go with the 2j bottom end, but it might be alot faster to just get this rebuilt and then in a few years go 1.5.

 

[Dylan JZ]

.. or buy a GE bottom end and rebuild it and win at everything.

 

[mk3tattoos]

.. or buy a GE bottom end and rebuild it and win at everything.

I've been thinking about that alot over the past week, and I am going to go with the 2j bottom end and fully rebuild it.

I just have to do alot of research on it before I dive in. I new I wanted to go with to 1.5jz someday.....just not so soon.

 

[Dylan JZ]

well, it's involved, but from what my buddy told me (BigZavs), it really isn't all that hard aside from the water neck spacer, 2J headgasket/timing belt, bigger injectors, and having to run on a standalone or Aristo ECU. I'm sure there's a few other minor things, but aside from those, the bottom end is essentially identical. Then again, that all adds up.

I'm actually planning to buy my other friend's GE bottom end from his SC.

 

[te72]

I see it happen on out of factory new cars with a manual gearbox.

I call BS on that... they don't make cars with clutches anymore ya goof. :aigo: