I was wondering the stock 1jz-gte all day long rev range? Which gives first the head or the short block? Then what is the weakest link between the two. I have heard 8k all day long, but then I have also heard 7200. Everything excluding the engine is good to the moon; I am saying the turbo, intake, fuel, and exhaust systems are all good to well over 8k of rev support; so I am just trying to line out the rest of the motor before it goes into the car.b
stock 1jz rev range
- Thread starter bexe
- Start date
1jz engines are rev happy engines the way toyo engineered it however unlike any other reliable engines if you continue to rev it past their limit it will eventually fail.
Agreed with DZ, no gains past 6500 rpm unless you have cams and other mods that can support it but with stock it's useless to rev it that high.
Agreed with DZ, no gains past 6500 rpm unless you have cams and other mods that can support it but with stock it's useless to rev it that high.
my head and block is completely stock no cams just big single, i pull hard all the way to 7 or 7100 with .81 a/r. but i wish i had more room past 7200 rpm
I am merely want to know safe rev range/power range. I like a motor that revs. with a larger turbo the more rev range the more time there is to utilize the turbo being spooled up and making power; shifting=time spent not going forward. So what I am undrestanding is the stock cams start to out around 6500 people rev the stock head to 7000. What is the short block good to? If I upgraded the head to the moon; when does the stock shortblock begin to fail after repeated abuse?
The Rod to Stroke Ratio on the 1jz is 1.76 (125.5/71mm) same as a honda b16 so in theory it should be able to rev past 8k with ease without much deflection on the rods. and pistons speeds are still under 4000 fpm at 8500. I dont know what kinda of bearing clearances and type Toyota uses, but thats the only thing I would worry about bottom end wise when revving 8500-9000 would be bearing wear.
"making power" is relative.... although the rate at which power is made decreases or becomes negative, while roadracing/autox sometimes having the extra couple hundred RPM's can mean the difference between having to shift and just hanging in there. you have to take a look at the power at say 8K versus the power at the RPM you'd be at if you upshifted with a stock redline say at 5000rpm... i'd say you're still making more power at 8K versus 5K. but until someone dynos a car with an 8k redline and posts it up here we may never know =T
that was the most jumbled not read or thought about post I have read in a while; the pertinence of this post to the thread is only slightly relative, but at most it is wrong a motor can make power to the moon if it has the right turbo, cams, and all the supporting items, but redline is a quoted "breaking-point" of either the head or bottom end, normally it is the point at which the head "floats" or "rods-go". Re-read the thread, make a post, proof read, and try again. Thnx though!
bexe;994857 said:
not true.. 1) *the head doesn't float, valves do. (2.) it's definitely not when the rods start to go, thats not generally determined by revs, rather in most cases from stress from other anomalies dealing with such not indicated specifically by revs. But it all depends on power and the state of the internals. (3.) Redline is set as a safe point a decent bit below where the manufacturer believes the engine may start to eat into itself reliability wise for the most part. If you took your car to 7200rpms daily and kept good maintenance I wouldn't expect a single thing to happen, hell you can take it plenty higher than that and still not worry, seen it all too often.
viperkillertt
Peace!
gotcha, you like to split hairs on words and thoughts that's great but at least you said something pertinent to the thread. Hopefully your experience holds true.
Now what springs, cams, are retainers "needed" are a good economical upgrade? I have read some about the comp cams springs that can be used, but are the intake and exhaust side the same spring? It is how I interpreted it from the the thread. Thnx great info so far!
Now what springs, cams, are retainers "needed" are a good economical upgrade? I have read some about the comp cams springs that can be used, but are the intake and exhaust side the same spring? It is how I interpreted it from the the thread. Thnx great info so far!
From a performance point of view, you're limited by top-end flow. More lift/duration, and/or bigger valves.
From a mechanical point of view, you're going to start floating valves in the upper 7k, especially if you're running higher boost. Stiffer springs are a must. It would be a good idea to replace the shim-over bucket type system with something else, if you want to eliminate the chance of spitting a shim.
the bottom end is pretty bullet-proof. I would suggest brand new bearings though. What's the rule of thumb for clearances. I believe you want it on the loose side if you're going to be spinning it fast right?
I used to rev my 1JZ to 7500rpm with larger cams. Torque was just starting to level off around that rpm. I rev my 2JZ bottom end to that as well, with no ill effects. From a reliability standpoint, the 1JZ bottom end can take it better than the 2JZ, and the 2JZ has no problems with it.
From a mechanical point of view, you're going to start floating valves in the upper 7k, especially if you're running higher boost. Stiffer springs are a must. It would be a good idea to replace the shim-over bucket type system with something else, if you want to eliminate the chance of spitting a shim.
the bottom end is pretty bullet-proof. I would suggest brand new bearings though. What's the rule of thumb for clearances. I believe you want it on the loose side if you're going to be spinning it fast right?
I used to rev my 1JZ to 7500rpm with larger cams. Torque was just starting to level off around that rpm. I rev my 2JZ bottom end to that as well, with no ill effects. From a reliability standpoint, the 1JZ bottom end can take it better than the 2JZ, and the 2JZ has no problems with it.
thnx! What springs/retainers did you go with? Cams? bucket to shim replacement? I was thinking about replacing this all, but wanted input from people who had done so with proven results.
My 1JZ-GTE manuel ECU Reved to ~8000 rpms before fuel cut I believe it was even factory I sold my ECU to aaron at driftmotion he could confirm this!
Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;996914 said:
yes these ECU's have an awesome habit of skipping the rev limiter (thats what I named it lol), but I never had one that would go to 8k. Plenty that went to around 7500 though.
Before the ECU could go oh, thats past 7200 oops. haha all 3 soarer motors at the shop did it..