Starting issue

[smagnotta]

I have been having starting troubles. I had a bad AFM electronics box and a bad CPS (failed one out of the 3 Ohm tests). I replaced both with working units. The spark plugs and wires only have 1,000 miles on them. The 3 coil packs are brand new and the coil pack ground wire is brand new and grounded. Battery is new and the ground for the battery is new (end of the ground wire snapped in my hand so I replaced it). I set the timing according to TSRM, marks are perfect, everything lined up the way it should.

The test for the igniter is mostly on the harness side and it passed the first test for the 12 volts of power (my multimeter showed 12.5). The second test showed a 3 volt dry cell battery for the test - where do I get this?

 

[smagnotta]

bump ^^

anyone?

 

[jaybroncos30]

isnt it like a watch battery?

if i were you i would make sure im getting spark first, and seems most cps will fail the tsrm ohm test but as long as they are not wildly out of spec, it doesnt really matter

 

[smagnotta]

The CPS I have in there passed the TSRM tests, so should be a non-issue. I am going to test the plugs, wires, ignition coils and the igniter next.

 

[donnys90T]

"isnt it like a watch battery?"


Putting two AA batteries in series would never work would it? Do they even teach basic science in US schools anymore?

 

[smagnotta]

Yea I thought that was the answer. Pretty easy. Take two 1.5 volt batteries in series = 3 volts. Connect positive to negative on the batteries.

When connecting your batteries in Series you are doubling the voltage while maintaining the same capacity.

When connecting in Parallel you are doubling the capacity of the battery while maintaining the voltage.

Basic stuff.

The TSRM makes it sound like you need to use "Toyota's special 3 volt dry cell battery" or the test would not work.

Toyota has their SST (Special Service Tools) - one of them is used on the diagnostic port -- I just use a paper clip.

My friend who helps me with my car really thought I had to buy all the tools and batteries, etc from the Toyota dealer, hence the post. I'm glad to see I was right - whatever works (and it is cheaper!).

 

[jaybroncos30]

sorry donnys90T, didnt mean to bring down your opinion of current school curriculums, let me rephrase that for you. Isn't there a small watch size battery that is also 3 volts, seems like there would be a way other than two batteries. One could assume the the tsrm referencing the use of one battery that there is such a thing as a 3 volt battery. Is that better :icon_razz

 

[donnys90T]

There are 3 volt batteries out there. The lithium photo ones would work but a couple of AAs are cheap and readly available. Watch battery doesn't have much current. Big one might work though. The point is the ignitor doesn't care where it gets three volts from. When dealing with things it's always better to try and understand the reasoning behind what's being done rather than blindly following directions. You need 3 volts because 1.5 won't turn of the transistor used to fire the coil pack which is the entire point of the test.

 

[smagnotta]

OK so what's the odds of this happening all at once:

1- Bad AFM electronics on the car
2- Bad spare AFM electronics I had in my garage
3- Bad CPS - Cam Position sensor electronics
4- Bad Igniter
5- Bad EGR valve
6 - Bad lower intercooler hose and clamp
7- End of the Negative battery cable ground snapped off in my hand = brittle
8- Top of the temperature coolant sensor snapped off in my hand - one that is green on top
9- Fouled spark plugs with 1,000 miles on them

I know my 87 T is 20 years old but sheesh ! :aigo:

I replaced most of the parts with working new or used parts. I have an igniter coming from an eBay sale.

 

[donnys90T]

Bad AFM electronics on the car
2- Bad spare AFM electronics I had in my garage
3- Bad CPS - Cam Position sensor electronics
4- Bad Igniter
5- Bad EGR valve

Still have those parts? I know someone who would like to buy them. Since they're bad they're no use to you. PM me if interested.

 

[smagnotta]

Bad AFM electronics on the car
2- Bad spare AFM electronics I had in my garage
3- Bad CPS - Cam Position sensor electronics
4- Bad Igniter
5- Bad EGR valve

Still have those parts? I know someone who would like to buy them. Since they're bad they're no use to you. PM me if interested.

Oh man - some of them I threw away. AFM electronics both gone.

I have the CPS electronics (3) and the EGR valve (5) - just let me know who or pm me all the info.