Spark plug change-Won't stay started

[huntin5L]

If the CPS was installed correctly it should run with the CPS in its current position. You will want to run it until it gets to operating temperature, then jumper Te1 and E1 in the DIAG block. Make sure your idle RPM is ~650 RPM. Then attach the timing light and adjust to 10*BTDC. Then undo Te1 and E1 and make sure the timing advances to at least ~12* BTDC (Check the TSRM for exact spec, there is a range it should be in)

EDIT - I checked the spec for you, it should be more than 12* after you remove the DIAG jumper wire for the GTE motor. For a GE it is 9-10*.

Yeah, I have set the timing and it did advance after removing the jumper. Jdub, I will try to test this alternator and battery. I think the battery is definitely one problem as I have to keep jumping it every other day I go out there, but that should cause what I am seeing right? As the alternator is the source that delivers constant power, not the battery, correct?

 

[jdub]

The ECU does not like low voltage...causes all kind of mischief. I would have the alternator tested as well.

 

[Poodles]

Easy way, when you jump the car, leave the cables attached. See if it runs better with them attached.

 

[primercrx]

If the CPS was installed correctly it should run with the CPS in its current position. You will want to run it until it gets to operating temperature, then jumper Te1 and E1 in the DIAG block. Make sure your idle RPM is ~650 RPM. Then attach the timing light and adjust to 10*BTDC. Then undo Te1 and E1 and make sure the timing advances to at least ~12* BTDC (Check the TSRM for exact spec, there is a range it should be in)

EDIT - I checked the spec for you, it should be more than 12* after you remove the DIAG jumper wire for the GTE motor. For a GE it is 9-10*.

So could my CPS be off a tooth since it will crank right up and then cut right back off after a few seconds? I'm going to try to adjust my TPS and CPS today so see if I can get it run again and stay running lol.

 

[huntin5L]

Jdub, I am going to test this right now. I will try with the cables connected to the battery and then try connecting with the cables connecting straight to my Z battery.

 

[huntin5L]

There doesn't seem to be a change when I have the jumper cables on or not. I tried another coil pack, made no difference. I did pull the plug as it was running to see if I heard a change in engine speed and all seemed to make a change except cylinders 3 and 2, which are on two different coils. Wonder if I have some bad wires possibly, I have NGK wires in there, bought them 2-3 years ago. The resistance seemed to check fine, doubt that is it. Also, the car wasn't as jumpy today for whatever reason, but still missing pretty bad. The battery seemed to be holding steady around 13.8 volts when the car was running, unlike last time when the voltage was all over the place.

 

[Fubar231]

I didn't read through all this , way too much , but did you clean your ISCV? I cleaned mine a few months ago because i had a horrible idle, and it helped a ton. Mine had so much black crud in it i wasn't suprised at all.

 

[huntin5L]

I didn't read through all this , way too much , but did you clean your ISCV? I cleaned mine a few months ago because i had a horrible idle, and it helped a ton. Mine had so much black crud in it i wasn't suprised at all.

Very interesting. I started the car again, threw the timing light on cylinder 1, it was flashing randomly. I then put it on cylinder 5 and 6 and I had a constant light. I started jiggling some of the wires and threw the light back on cylinder 1 and I didn't get any intermittent flashes from the light anymore and I could actually read the timing, which is at about 13*. I looked closer and noticed when I moved the wires I accidentally removed the ground cable from the coil pack and it was still running great, no misses, no stumbles. Plugged the ground back on the coil pack and still ran great. Wonder if the wires are the culprit. Just threw the insurance back on the car. Going to go for a ride. I will keep this updated.

Thanks Bob

 

[huntin5L]

Very interesting. I started the car again, threw the timing light on cylinder 1, it was flashing randomly. I then put it on cylinder 5 and 6 and I had a constant light. I started jiggling some of the wires and threw the light back on cylinder 1 and I didn't get any intermittent flashes from the light anymore and I could actually read the timing, which is at about 13*. I looked closer and noticed when I moved the wires I accidentally removed the ground cable from the coil pack and it was still running great, no misses, no stumbles. Plugged the ground back on the coil pack and still ran great. Wonder if the wires are the culprit. Just threw the insurance back on the car. Going to go for a ride. I will keep this updated.

Thanks Bob

Hmmmm...Took it for a drive, was idling great then I got a to a light and it was missing slightly again. I revved the car pretty hard and it started idling better. It is almost like some wire needs to heat up or something and revving the car hard to 4-5k rpm makes it idle fine there after. Strange! Any ideas? The number 1 cylinder wire had intermittent flashing from the timing light again, tried jiggling and nothing seemed to help. I think the spark plug wires are the problem, but not sure why revving it would smooth the idle out.

 

[Scot]

This is a stretch.... but did you double check to make sure you have the wires installed in the correct firing order?

 

[huntin5L]

This is a stretch.... but did you double check to make sure you have the wires installed in the correct firing order?

Yes sir, left to right...163425

 

[Drake69]

It does sound like a poor ground. There is one wire by the coilpack that threads down to the block on the right side of the pack. I cleaned mine when I removed it to swap my plugs and cleaned the gunk and crud off then put it back on.

FROM: JSeaman's guide...

 

[supradjza80]

It does sound like a poor ground. There is one wire by the coilpack that threads down to the block on the right side of the pack. I cleaned mine when I removed it to swap my plugs and cleaned the gunk and crud off then put it back on.

FROM: JSeaman's guide...

This ground, while being good to have will not cause the OP's symptoms as many people run with it removed.

To the OP, when you plug the wires onto the Coil do they snap in? Are you using the plastic clips to hold them to the coil? Have you verified the 3 connectors for ignition signal to the coils are connected correctly? When you start the car at night do you see arcing? These are all things I would check based on what you are saying.

I still don't understand how you can have a random timing event from bad wires. If it sparking at the wrong time it means the coil is sending out the voltage at the wrong time. And AFAIK cylinder 6 and 1 should fire at the same time no matter what so it is odd that you only see the problem on cylinder one. I could understand cylinder one being the only one that is missing an ignition event but to have it fire at the incorrect time when it does fire does not sound correct possible based on your information on cylinder 6.

 

[Drake69]

This ground, while being good to have will not cause the OP's symptoms as many people run with it removed.

Cool, didn't know that. :icon_bigg

 

[huntin5L]

The only two things that come to mind are one, the wire is bad and intermittently working or the battery getting a jolt when it is rev hard which makes it run right for a little while.

I am going to swap in my 300zx battery tonight and see how it does with that one installed.

A couple of the clips are broken and don't "snap" on. They stay snug still, wouldn't think that would be the problem. Good idea about the arcing, I will check that tonight when it gets dark outside.

 

[supradjza80]

The only two things that come to mind are one, the wire is bad and intermittently working or the battery getting a jolt when it is rev hard which makes it run right for a little while.

I am going to swap in my 300zx battery tonight and see how it does with that one installed.

A couple of the clips are broken and don't "snap" on. They stay snug still, wouldn't think that would be the problem. Good idea about the arcing, I will check that tonight when it gets dark outside.

To verify the electrical system just measure voltage across the battery with it running. Should be around 13-14 volts (check the TSRM for the exact spec). If it produces that much voltage you are barking up the wrong tree.

my 2nd thought is intermittent firing and firing way out of time is completely different. Is cylinder 1 just missing ignition events or do you show it firing at the completely wrong time (not near 10* BTDC). Your description seems to sound as if it fires at the complete wrong time. I do not know how 6 could fire at the correct time but one would not, but as I said before, #1 could miss an ignition event but when it does fire it should be at the correct time.

 

[Poodles]

Dirty wires = spark jump

 

[supradjza80]

Dirty wires = spark jump

Don't you find it odd that he said that cylinder 6 fires just fine and is timed close to correct, but he said that cylinder 1 is way off on timing when it does fire. Again I don't see how this is possible. I understand that Cylinder 1 might miss the ignition event (due to bad wires), but when it does fire it should be at the same timing (degrees BTDC) as cylinder 6.

 

[Poodles]

As the timing light detects the spark passively, if the wires are sparking to ground it would cause issues.

Much like the terrible practical joke of taking a pencil and putting a line down someone's wires, dirt can do the same depending on what it is...

 

[supradjza80]

As the timing light detects the spark passively, if the wires are sparking to ground it would cause issues.

Much like the terrible practical joke of taking a pencil and putting a line down someone's wires, dirt can do the same depending on what it is...

yes but this does not explain the timing being different between 1 to 6. That just explains the cause for a miss.