So damn close!!!

[TooGoode]

here it is so far: the engine will start but only run off of starting fluid. if i spray soe then turn it over, itl run for a sec (only off the starting fluid). i had a spark issue before now i got that resolved. i took off the fuel return line and turned the car over, i got gas. i did the cel diag and got this: 1,1.....1,1.....1,1,1,1,1.....1..... i dont know how to put in better terms. blink blink........blink blink...........blink blink blink blink blink.........blink..... haha what do i do now? how can i test my fuel injectors? i dont think they are firing at all..... edit: figured out what the codes mean... code 22, code 51.



Code 51: Switch signal-Diagnosis

* No "IDL" signal, "NSW" signal or "A/C" signal to ECU, during diagnosis check.

Trouble Area

* A/C switch circuit
* A/C switch
* A/C amplifier
* Throttle position sensor circuit
* Throttle position sensor
* ECU

Code 22: Water Temp sensor signal-Diagnosis

* Open or short circuit in water temp sensor signal (THW).

Trouble Area

* Water temp sensor circuit
* Water temp sensor
* ECU

Question: do i have to have these things hooked up for my car to run, and what is switch signal? thanks you guys...

 

[jetjock]

You could always RTFM. No, you don't need either of those things for the engine to start but you need them both for it to run right. If I were you I'd check for 12 volts at the injectors. You should have it on both wires. Or check for it at the ECU terminals. There should be 12 volts on the three wires called 10, 20, and 30 at the ECU connector when the key is on and the engine off. That'll verify the power supply, injectors, resistor pack (if you have one), and the wiring all the way to the ECU.

 

[TooGoode]

You could always RTFM. No, you don't need either of those things for the engine to start but you need them both for it to run right. If I were you I'd check for 12 volts at the injectors. You should have it on both wires. Or check for it at the ECU terminals. There should be 12 volts on the three wires called 10, 20, and 30 at the ECU connector when the key is on and the engine off. That'll verify the power supply, injectors, resistor pack (if you have one), and the wiring all the way to the ECU.

im sorry but what is rtfm? and what if im only gettin 8 volts per injector?

 

[jetjock]

From your other thread, in reference to the CEL, explain this: "i know its there and it works, before i jumped the ecu, it would light up before i would turn it over".

In that thread you claimed the CEL wasn't lighting up at all and now it is. What did you do to repair it? And what does "jumped the ECU" mean?

Where are you getting 8 volts? Also clear all codes by pulling the EFI fuse and start over with new ones.

RTFM means Read The F-ing Manual....

 

[TooGoode]

From your other thread, in reference to the CEL, explain this: "i know its there and it works, before i jumped the ecu, it would light up before i would turn it over".

In that thread you claimed the CEL wasn't lighting up at all and now it is. What did you do to repair it? And what does "jumped the ECU" mean?

Where are you getting 8 volts? Also clear all codes by pulling the EFI fuse and start over with new ones.

RTFM means Read The F-ing Manual....

i pulled the efi fuse and now the engine light is back on... and the eight volts is from the injectors...btw "jumped the ecu" bridged the connectors on the diagnotics plug.

 

[jetjock]

How are you measuring the 8 volts? Right across the injectors? If so measure each side to ground. Or do it at the ECU. Do it with the key on engine off. This is a Cressida motor right? Do you have the Cressida ECU?

The 12 volts comes from the battery, goes through a few fusible links, the ignition switch, to the resistor pack if you have one, and then to each injector. If you're getting spark and not getting a code 14 the ECU will put a ground on one side of the injectors to fire them. It's a simple circuit. Lower left:

http://tinyurl.com/37ewck

Either measure from battery ground to either side of the injector or pull the connector from injector # 6 and stick a small test light across it while cranking. They actually make lights just for injector work. Called noid lights. A set is cheap.