***SM member 1/4 mi. times list***

[black89t]

nice! im gonna bump the boost up when the track opens. want to make one 10 second pass and running closer to 30psi will make that alot easier lol

do you have plans to cage the car? pretty sure under 10 you need a full cage and not just a roll bar. im still iffy on putting a roll bar in my car cause it makes the back seat basically useless.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Shouldn't have any issue getting into the 10's with 30psi haha

I'd like keep the car rollbar/cage free but I have been thinking about it and my car gets moving quick.

 

[te72]

Pretty sure Toyota made the back seat useless from the factory. In seriousness though, I had a cage and a back seat in my 89. While not exactly ideal for people with legs, you can get by in a pinch, even with a cage. I don't recommend sitting around unpadded cage bars for obvious reasons, but it is feasible.

Alternatively, go the top tier NHRA approach: let off at 1000'. Run an 11-12 at 140+ haha!

 

[TurboStreetCar]

I would attach the main hoop to the floor just infront of the seat. The cross bar would be about shoulder height and the rear supports would tuck up and back into the hatch area. It wouldnt be the most comfortable place to be but the back seat would still be usable. I dont think i have ever had anyone in my back seat but i still want to keep it in the car. I pride myself on my car being a true street car. So not only do i actually drive the hell out of it, but i want to keep it looking as streetcar as possible.

 

[te72]

Important thing to consider for cage design, is that none of the bars are likely to contact anybody's head in the event of contact. Alternatively, make your passengers wear helmets, it's a lot of fun!

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Yea, I wouldn't go on a road trip with people in the back. It would be emergency situation only. I just want the back seat in the car to keep the street car appearance.

 

[te72]

It also makes an appreciable improvement in sound deadening for those road trips, versus removing the seat entirely. I haven't 100% decided what I'm doing with the back seat area of mine yet. I know the bottom cushion area is going to be where the battery, fuse box, sub & amp, water methanol and washer fluid tanks will be, but I may leave the rear seatbacks in place. All depends on how loud it is on the highway.

Either way, it's an easy thing to pull out or put back in.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

I would move all that stuff to the rear hatch area, It would be hidden under the pull out cargo cover and would help with weight distribution.

 

[te72]

Weight distribution is exactly why I'm moving everything to the rear seat area. Think along the lines of how the RX7 and 300z 2-seaters were setup, with a flat floor in the hatch / rear seat area. Nothing will be exposed, and I avoid the pendulum effect that having weight behind the rear axle has on handling.

I just haven't decided the exact orientation that things will be going in, but they'll all fit.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

I want all my weight behind the back axle. I drag race haha.

 

[te72]

Ahh, that makes sense. I'm more a road racer myself, canyon / mountain roads, that sort of thing. While I can and do drag race, I will adapt to the car for my traction needs as necessary.

Can't wait to get mine up and running this spring. Will be my first time behind the wheel of an actually high powered Mk3, so I'm sure to be eating a bit of crow for poking a bit of fun of folks' launches.

 

[gsxr141]

yeah, launching a high hp supra isn't as easy as I thought it would be.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

If you have good tires it shouldnt be that difficult. Well, with an automatic its real easy. :biglaugh:

 

[te72]

Well, I managed a 2.15 60' the last time I took the Mk3 down the strip. This was on 275/40/17 NT05's, with 3.73 gearing, and about 5500 or so rpm of a launch. Didn't even chirp the tires...

New setup has 4.11 gearing, same tire setup, and significantly more power. So, if I can pull off a 1.8 60', I think I'd be pretty happy with that.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Get Mickey Thompson et street radials, the nitto's don't hook anywhere near as good. I went 1.53 with same size tire as you with more in it. Automatic FTW though.

 

[te72]

I think the car had a solid 2.0 60' with that setup, but I only had one pass before being eliminated. Helps to pay attention to what class you're best suited for haha!

Like I said, I'm a road racer, my fun happens in the turns. If I could pull a 1.8 out of genuine street tires that handle good, I'd be happy. I know I could get the car into the 1.5 range with ET streets or the like, but at this point... the transmission is gonna be my weak point.

Now, if something catastrophic happens to the transmission, and I end up spending a lot of time and money putting together a more robust manual setup, you might see a Mk3 popping wheelies off the line. Let's hope it never comes to that, for my wallet's sake.

 

[toyotanos]

Guess I should update my time to the last best time I ran before going to the 2J.

The final setup:
7M JE/Eagles
BC 272 Cams
+1mm Ferrea valves, port work to suit
Supertech dual valve springs
HKS Stopper
Spec Super Twin
Built R154
Dahn Automotive 3.5" AL driveshaft
AEM, E-85, 31lbs on my 67mm
Running Hoosier QTP 26x11.5's on 15x8 rims.

Ran an 11.248 at 129.34.

I was sad I didn't get the 10.x I was hoping for, but it was still fun. Engine is still alive so we might see it return to the list in the hands of the new owner!


Note: these are the best runs from the summer (left hand slip) and the fall (right hand slip) from the last year it was in my hands, 2014. Same dragstrip so they look a little funny sitting on top of each other.

 

[suprahero]

Our cars are almost identical through the 1/8 and the 1/4 mile from when I raced it four or five years ago. I'm hoping to run mid 10's when I get my new automatic dialed in..............well I guess I need to start by getting it installed.........lol
I always thought the hard part was paying for everything. I've had everything I need to go full 2jz and th350 for a few months now and I haven't even removed the twins from my new motor.

 

[black89t]

hahaa toyotanos i literally went through the same thing this past weekend made over 15 passes and didn't hit my 10 second goal. it was my first time out on the hoosier qtp's i got. happen to be same size as yours. they own'd the mt drag radials i used the past couple years. never wheel hopped just bogged or took tf off. i think the car has a mid 10 in it if all the stars are aligned lol. my fastest pass for the day was a 11.22 at 131 with 2.0 sixty foot. best sixty was 1.5 launching off the stock rev limiter :aigo::evil2:

heres a vid of my first pass on them. read the vid description for the detials

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vtAqxpk6KE

 

[gsxr141]

Guess I should update my time to the last best time I ran before going to the 2J.

The final setup:
7M JE/Eagles
BC 272 Cams
+1mm Ferrea valves, port work to suit
Supertech dual valve springs
HKS Stopper
Spec Super Twin
Built R154
Dahn Automotive 3.5" AL driveshaft
AEM, E-85, 31lbs on my 67mm
Running Hoosier QTP 26x11.5's on 15x8 rims.

Ran an 11.248 at 129.34.

I was sad I didn't get the 10.x I was hoping for, but it was still fun. Engine is still alive so we might see it return to the list in the hands of the new owner!


Note: these are the best runs from the summer (left hand slip) and the fall (right hand slip) from the last year it was in my hands, 2014. Same dragstrip so they look a little funny sitting on top of each other.

good stuff. gives me hope, lol. my last trip to the track was 12.7 @ 128.5. I think my 2.6 sixty foot needs help. lol