Slow Build - Finally

#04

New Member
Sep 7, 2009
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Cambridge
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Couple of more engine pics.

Custom stainless steel / polished coil cover.

We sanded, buffed and polished most of the aluminum engine parts which was
relatively easy.

For the spark plug cover, decided to go stainless since we wanted a mirror like finish.

Cover was lazer cut by a local shop > then we sanded, buffed and polished.

The amount of work / time and, materials to polish mill stainless was insane.

My first and last polishing job on stainless ..
 

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#04

New Member
Sep 7, 2009
526
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0
Cambridge
Hi Kakanator

Thanks for the comment.

Our objective was to have a pure clean under body.

Required scraping all the undercoating previous owners applied / wire wheel the small
residue / wiping with laquer thinners / sand blasting - cleaning / repairing - welding in -
same rippled piece we took from the Japanese 1/2 cut floor so that it did not look like
a weird metal patch / grinding the welds down smooth so you could nto tell it had been
repaired .

After all this prep work was done > applied 1st coat of epoxy primer .
Let dry / gas off for a few days.

Then we sprayed with a special stone guard epoxy / let dry

Then sprayed again with 2nd coat of white epoxy ..

The red parts you see were all sand blasted and powder coated ..

The 1 piece aluminim driveshaft was sanded / buffed with buffing compounds ( 3 ) / then polished
with a final polishing buffing compound.

The exhaust is all stainless and we first sanded / buffed all 2 1/2 " tubing - made and
welded the exhaust / then polished the welds to remove heat . Yes it will discolor as car is used
and pipes get hot .. Not much we can do about this .

Later willpost pictures of the wishbones - they were all sanded / buffed and polished .

Just wanted clean underside.

Right now - returnig to the body work. Very clean to start but did cut and replace
entire back quarter from drivers door to tail light with a rust free donor panel ..

Car has been primed once and sanded / next is coat of high build > with be blocked sanded
( also used sanding guide powder ) to make sure the car is straight ..

Start with 220 and progress up to 800 .

Not sure but may have 2nd coat of high build primer > determine after sanding first coat .

Painter we know says a great paint job is 80% prep work.

Car will be painted pure white > color is from a Lexus F ..

Plan to wet sand base and 2 coats of clear .

Later will post more pics .


Cheers

Doug







drivers side floor with same ri
 

TMMCSupra

New Member
Oct 2, 2010
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Waterloo, Ontario
Awesome work! Ill be taking a page from your work here for my own project car. Why did you go with a white underbody though? Just curious. It looks amazing, but I'd be afraid to get it dirty lol.
 

#04

New Member
Sep 7, 2009
526
0
0
Cambridge
Hi TMMC

The reason for the white underbody was just our preference. Yes it will get dirty but
it will be a May to October car / not driven on any dirt roads and not in the rain if
at all possible.

Everyone has black under bodies and several spray loads of black rustproofing which
to us looks, not so good. Ok for a daily driver / all season but since ours will see
limited driving - just wanted it to look super clean and different ..

Not sure what you are doing to the underside of your build, but check out epoxy primer.

Not cheap but has good rust prevention qualities.

We sandwiched a coat of stone guard between the 2 coats of
epoxy to help prevent a stone / whatever from exposing bare metal .
Cannot see it but it is there .

HOW ARE YOU MAKING OUT SCRAPING OFF THE UNDERSIDE.

LOT OF FUN YEH ! NOT !!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers

Doug
 

TMMCSupra

New Member
Oct 2, 2010
90
0
0
Waterloo, Ontario
I have yet to really scrape the underside. I've exposed a few spots that we're bubbling. I plan on stripping the whole thing soon. I was jut waiting to get the donor car here so I could tackle the rear quarters while I'm under there.