Shimming the bypass spring on the oil pump

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Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Possibly been answered before but I have been searching for about 15-20 minutes and don't see anything. But, is there a benefit to this for a relatively stock motor? Is there a step by step write up or a thread that I'm not seeing? If there can does anybody have a link to it?

Sorry for the dumb questions but just trying to learn more.

Chris
 
suprarx7nut

suprarx7nut

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Nov 10, 2006
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I'm not sure I'd bother with it on a completely stock motor. The purpose is to allow more system pressure (flow) before the relief valve opens up. The stock system allows sufficient pressure, IMO.

This being said, I shimmed the pump in my car right now before I installed it. :dunno: In retrospect I feel like I may have introduced more potential for failure by cracking the bolt loose, installing the shims and installing the bolt again than I'd ever avoid with the extra pressure from the shims.
 
hvyman

hvyman

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As long as it's tight won't be a issue. Could always use lock tite.

Id shim it 5mm on any 7m.
 
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Chris_87_Turbo

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I am in the process of Putting a rebuilt motor in and current mods are Lexus AFM, 550cc injectors, Wideband, 255LPH fuel pump, AFPR, full 3 inch exhaust, boost controller and upgraded BOV with 2.5" piping. I am looking at different things I can do to help the engine. I would think more flow would be better for a multitude of reasons. But when it comes to these motors I'm still pretty much a noob.

Chris
 
Poodles

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Yep, worth doing on any build.

Also worth going to thermostat controlled oil cooler as well (stock is pressure based bleed to the cooler and back to the pan)
 
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Chris_87_Turbo

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Dirgle;1993652 said:
Also, in the search for better oil pressure on the 7MGTE I would recommend replacing the oil squirter banjo bolts. On most of these high milage motors they start leaking well before their 40PSI set point. If you have it open enough to mess with the oil pump then replacing these is a snap.

http://www.driftmotion.com/Oil-Squirter-Banjo-Bolt-7M-GTE-p/dm951.htm
Click to expand...

I would like to think they have been replaced since the motor looks to have a fresh rebuild/machine work but I will check them out anyway just to ease my mind about them.

Chris
 
supraguy@aol

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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Generally, a shop would never replace the banjo bolts unless the owner asked him to.
They are roughly $11 a piece, and can be had from any dealership, or Driftmotion.com
 
emericaskater285

emericaskater285

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Sep 19, 2011
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supraguy@aol;1993733 said:
Generally, a shop would never replace the banjo bolts unless the owner asked him to.
They are roughly $11 a piece, and can be had from any dealership, or Driftmotion.com
Click to expand...

Little pricey but worth it.

I think oil cooler mods are much better than the oil pump shimming. My built motor will have both, but just for comparison I just finished up my full flow oil cooler with thermostatic control and remote oil filter. I am getting 20psi at idle before it was around 7-10 if that. My engine has 85,xxx miles on it or so, and has been stock up to 75,xxx miles.


I would like to hear what people are getting for oil pressure through a full flow cooler setup with a shimmed pump as that is what ill eventually have.
 
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Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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supraguy@aol;1993733 said:
Generally, a shop would never replace the banjo bolts unless the owner asked him to.
They are roughly $11 a piece, and can be had from any dealership, or Driftmotion.com
Click to expand...

This is true but I like to think the PO of this motor that had it rebuilt did it the right way and replaced what needed to be replaced. It appears to have at least 1 new piston and a couple of new rods.

I'm looking into a newer bigger oil cooler like what y'all are talking about. Sounds like a god idea to me. I like reliability in my engines.


Chris
 
supraguy@aol

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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emericaskater285;1993739 said:
Little pricey but worth it.


I would like to hear what people are getting for oil pressure through a full flow cooler setup with a shimmed pump as that is what ill eventually have.
Click to expand...

Hopefully, i can let you know next week.
I have 3mm shimmed bypass, thermostatic setup, new pump, az hardpipe and new squirter bolts, so im hoping for good warm idle pressure. Next week i should have all the gauges in.
 
emericaskater285

emericaskater285

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supraguy@aol;1993953 said:
Hopefully, i can let you know next week.
I have 3mm shimmed bypass, thermostatic setup, new pump, az hardpipe and new squirter bolts, so im hoping for good warm idle pressure. Next week i should have all the gauges in.
Click to expand...

I have been thinking about going to less than 5mm on my shims also. I have heard the oil pressure can get into the 120+psi with a full flow cooler and cold start on heavier weight oil (which is what I am running.) I know people are saying 5mm is where you want to be at, but I am thinking I should probably do a bit less. Too much pressure can be bad also. Too bad we cant just take off our pan and adjust it in the car lol.
 
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Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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What oil is everybody running, I am going to run Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic in either 10w30 or 10w40 I can't remember off the top of my head what I bought and its out on the shop waiting to get put in.

Chris
 
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Chris_87_Turbo

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Nov 5, 2013
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Princeton, TX
I thought about running a 15w40, I think I may go to that if I don't like what this stuff does. Has anybody run a 20w50 in their car that didn't have a decked out motor?

Chris
 
sheedy126

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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id like to know what people are running as far as pressure with a fulll flow system, and 5mm shimmed pump.

im running -8an full flow oil cooler with t-stat. currently have the oil pan off and hae the pump shimmed 5mm, but maybe i should go 4? or even 3?

post up what you guys are getting at warm idle and how much you shimmed your pump, and oil weight
 
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