Sheedy Built Supra

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Raggan;2075319 said:
What oil feed line do you use for your holeset and are you using a reducer. I was reading that the holesets need 10 psi at idle and the 7m is like 4-8, guys were having problems with them. Not trying to be negative, I am just curious because I was thinking about getting a holeset for my build.

oh and by the way the builds awesome man keep up the good work
Thanks man, appreciate it.
I'm currently running an unrestricted 4an feed and 12an return straight to the pan.

Holset turbos do require 10psi at idle and I'm running yhe driftmotion modified oil pump so I have a slightly higher idle pressure sitting at 12~ psi. The gears in the pump have been moly coated and combined with a shimmed relieve valve, I also get a higher pressure across the rpm range.

I will say, I did have more issues with my hx35 when I had the factory pump. It may be related to a worn out pump, but may not have been too.

I'd say for the price and durability, holset turbos are hard to beat. I'm not easy on my car by any means and my turbo continued to take what I threw at it.

I'd definitely recommend a driftmotion modified oil pump either way. Good piece of mind.

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Raggan

New Member
Mar 16, 2015
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Maple Ridge, BC
sheedy126;2075342 said:
Thanks man, appreciate it.
I'm currently running an unrestricted 4an feed and 12an return straight to the pan.

Holset turbos do require 10psi at idle and I'm running yhe driftmotion modified oil pump so I have a slightly higher idle pressure sitting at 12~ psi. The gears in the pump have been moly coated and combined with a shimmed relieve valve, I also get a higher pressure across the rpm range.

I will say, I did have more issues with my hx35 when I had the factory pump. It may be related to a worn out pump, but may not have been too.

I'd say for the price and durability, holset turbos are hard to beat. I'm not easy on my car by any means and my turbo continued to take what I threw at it.

I'd definitely recommend a driftmotion modified oil pump either way. Good piece of mind.

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I have a driftmotion oil pump in my build as well, i heard from a friend who races he's been running the same holeset at 35 pounds of boost for 3 years in a strictly race car. How are you liking your HX52, what is size is the inlet turbine? Oh and how do you get a V band attachment for them I currently have a driftmotion v band 3 inch downpipe.
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Raggan;2075350 said:
I have a driftmotion oil pump in my build as well, i heard from a friend who races he's been running the same holeset at 35 pounds of boost for 3 years in a strictly race car. How are you liking your HX52, what is size is the inlet turbine? Oh and how do you get a V band attachment for them I currently have a driftmotion v band 3 inch downpipe.

I haven't actually put everything together together yet unfortunately. I got everything in, then I decided to order the driftmotion exhaust stud upgrade kit. Then a distributor rebuild kit.
I just put in the new excessive upgraded Trans mount too, my old one was toast!

The compressor is a 4" in 2.5" out. The turbine is a t4i flange with a factory 5" vband. I had the old flange milled off and welded on a 4" flange to 4" downpipe. It necks down to a 3" exhaust after the transmission. There's no way I could have gone smaller otherwise It would have been a huge restriction.

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sheedy126

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kennewick
It's same compressor inlet and outlet size. Turbine is t3 with a 3" vband. It's a 62mm compressor and 60mm turbine

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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
I'll just leave these here





Most everything is together now, just need to put a few more parts on.
While everything was out, I also upgraded to the driftmotion 7/16 exhaust studs. Definitely a huge difference already!

Things left to install.
-dipstick tube
-vacuum line to turbo
-intercooler coupler to turbo
-muffler (ordered hks carbon titanium muffler)
-fire it up!

Looks like it'll be running this weekend if all goes well

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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
fired it up! runs great besides a mistake on my part unfortuneately... after i took it for a spin around the block i noticed a decent exhaust leak..

after further inspection, ive got an exhaust leak on the bottom side of each hole on the original t4 flange on the manifold. crap. i welded the entire outside, and what i thought most of the inside of the flanges but looks like i may have missed a spot and it making its way out. im going to pull the turbo which doesnt take long, then weld around the inside of the flanges to ensure it wont leak again... other than that is runs great!

this thing is definitely a lag monster now. i thought i had done something wrong since it wasnt boosting then it hit 5k~ and bam pulls like a freight train!
im very happy with it so far, even at 14psi its a monster! huge difference over the hx35 thats for sure.

more to come. pulled the passenger fender to get painted and finished up the exhaust. necks down from 4" to flex, then 3" back. it has a deeper tone to it now aswell. maybe thats just because i havent driven it in awhile though.

anyway, heres more pictures






 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Well the plan is to have all the bugs worked out and tuned mid July. Im not in a big hurry, I want to take my time and make sure it's ready 100%.

I pulled the manifold off and welded all the flanges inside and the bottom bolt holes. Everything is back together and running great! Can't wait to make some good Power










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sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
polished radiator along with intake manifold. did a quick detail on the engine bay.
also painted my strut tower rings and radiator upper brackets Black metallic pearl. this color is great, a nice deep black color in the shade and a slightly sparkling pearl black in the sunlight. adds a nice touch i think. since the turbo was melting the black heat protectant on the hood, i ordered a new turbo blanket. it should be here in the coming week. until then, ill have to drive around without a hood which looks badass if you ask me..


 

Janch

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Jul 23, 2012
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Riga
What is yout target boost? There must be some idea behind it other than looks and you definitely werent maxing out that HX35 yet.

I see your signiture says your target is 500whp, so you think HX35 cant boost 25-30psi?

I have to say your engine bay looks sick though
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Janch;2075826 said:
What is yout target boost? There must be some idea behind it other than looks and you definitely werent maxing out that HX35 yet.

I see your signiture says your target is 500whp, so you think HX35 cant boost 25-30psi?

I have to say your engine bay looks sick though

as of now, im not sure exactly what boost level will get me into 500. possibly somewhere around 16psi??
the hx35 in stock form is definitely worthly of going to 25psi+ proven on dsm cars but i was having some issues with mine after each time it was rebuilt.

i talked with a guy from tims turbos who do a lot of holsets and holset upgrading. since my compressor wheel was much bigger than factory, i was having early thrust bearing failure because of what he said was turbine drive pressure. (or something like that)

so instead of buying a bigger hx40 turbine wheel and having the exhaust housing machined, it came out to around the same price to buy a new turbo completely. i was randomly looking through ebay one day when i came across a Reman hx52 with a billet wheel still in the holset box for 1/3 the price of a new one! jumped all over that deal when i saw it.

being this turbo is much bigger, itll definitely give me a lot of room to grow if i decide to build the engine up with forged pistons and rods. from what ive read, making the same HP with a bigger turbo on lower boost compared to a small turbo on high boost the larger turbo will last longer and will not get as hot. whether thats true or not, it does make some sense. either way, im pretty happy with the choice and im sure itll last much longer too. the bearings in this thing are massive compared to the hx35
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
Raggan;2075861 said:
If you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the hx52. By the way lookin forward to future updates :)

No problem. It emded up coming to 450$. Ive came across new hx52s in the 1300_1400 range
 

turbogeek87

turbogeek87
Mar 29, 2006
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Juneau, AK
What was your reason for going to AN 12 from AN 10 for the drain? I have a HX35W I'm putting on my 7m and I have 4 AN feed and 10 AN drain lines, and a 1.5mm Oil Restrictor. I have the stock oil pump, not shimmed, but i have dumped the pressure system for a temperature based system. It seems that you were having trouble with your HX35w. I would rather smoke and have sufficient flow to the bearings, rather than not smoke and have a short turbo life. You also played around with a restrictor, but you took it off?

I have a leaky pan, so I'm thinking of getting the driftmotion pump when I replace the pan. I'd like to have the rest of the system figured out, but it seems like it is still hit and miss for what seems to work for people on the 7m, for what I have gathered on the board. If you could tell me your reasoning for the 12 AN and no restrictor, that would be a great help to me. Thanks for your contribution by keeping this thread going.

Larry
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
turbogeek87;2075917 said:
What was your reason for going to AN 12 from AN 10 for the drain? I have a HX35W I'm putting on my 7m and I have 4 AN feed and 10 AN drain lines, and a 1.5mm Oil Restrictor. I have the stock oil pump, not shimmed, but i have dumped the pressure system for a temperature based system. It seems that you were having trouble with your HX35w. I would rather smoke and have sufficient flow to the bearings, rather than not smoke and have a short turbo life. You also played around with a restrictor, but you took it off?

I have a leaky pan, so I'm thinking of getting the driftmotion pump when I replace the pan. I'd like to have the rest of the system figured out, but it seems like it is still hit and miss for what seems to work for people on the 7m, for what I have gathered on the board. If you could tell me your reasoning for the 12 AN and no restrictor, that would be a great help to me. Thanks for your contribution by keeping this thread going.

Larry

the reason for the 12an return is that holsets from the factory, specifically an hx35 come with a 19mm dran line. 19mm is .74 inch so basically 3/4".
a 10an hose is .5" and the 12an hose is .75". so being that i wanted a drain line no less than the size of the factory line i opted for the bigger hose. sure its more expensive for the fittings and hose, but i know that insufficient drain line size will never be my issue.

as far as the restrictor goes, i took it out because the bearings were "burnt" and after some reading/searching online i found that it was mostly caused by lack of oil.
so as of now im running unrestricted 4an feed and 12an return straight to the oil pan.

here is some good information on oil pressure taken from the holset manual

8. Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5°C (203+/-9° F). It should not exceed 120°C (248°F) under any operating condition.
9. Any pre-lube oil must be clean and meet the minimum CD classification.
10. The orientation of turbine housing, bearing housing and compressor cover is fixed according to application. During installation, do not attempt to rotate these components. Inclined turbocharger installation is not recommended. If an installed angle is necessary, oil inlet centreline must be +/- 10 degrees from vertical and rotor centreline +/- 5 degrees from horizontal.
11. Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan. Crankcase pressure should be limited ideally to 0.8 kPa (0.12 lbf/in2) but 1.4 kPa (0.20 lbf/in2) can be accepted by reference to Holset.
12. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.
13. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).
14. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.​


the key is idle pressure from what ive come across.
holsets want MINIMUM 10 psi at idle which 7m's lack. upgrade the the driftmotion pump and this is corrected.
make sure when youre in boost or under a load oil pressure is around 30psi. i cant remember what my stock system ran but ill get +10psi per 1000rpm or so then the relieve valve opens up iirc around 45-50. i dont look at my pressure gauge that often anymore just a quick glance.

if youre having your hx35 rebuilt anytime soon i Highly highly recommend the turbine side step gap ring and if any sign of the seat on the bearing housing is worn, just get a new bearing housing. between those two and a properly sized drain, ive never had a smoking issue again.

take the information as you like, sure other people have had luck with different setups but ive had good luck with this one too.
hope it helps!

EDIT:
you must have posted while i was writing, ill get some pictures of where my drain line goes. its straight to the pan though i blocked off the factory flange on the block

i used 12an bung was welded to the pan with a 45* pushlock fitting on the pan side with oil rated nylon hose going to a straight fitting on the turbo side. the pan had to be removed to do this.




 

turbogeek87

turbogeek87
Mar 29, 2006
35
0
0
Juneau, AK
Sweet. Thanks for the info sir. I deleted my previous post because I realized I would be using the pan from an NA, so I could drill it out to accept whatever fitting i wanted. I used a step gap ring when I rebuilt this turbo. I have a spare, that has wear on the seat, so I will take your advise when I rebuild that one, and get another bearing housing. So if I am looking at the pics correctly, I assume you used a 10 to 12 adapter off of the turbo? Is that right? or is it possible to get a 12 AN fitting to fit the turbo drain itself?
 

sheedy126

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Apr 30, 2012
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kennewick
on the turbo it was previously used for a 10an fitting. but the actual flange was 1/2npt female threads.
i just drilled it out smooth and welded the 12an bung right onto it so there is no restriction

there was about 1" from the flange to the bottom of the bung. for clearance now i have about 3.5" of 3/4" pipe welded so it hangs down below my compressor housing with a slight angle towards the front of the turbo to clear the manifold. MUCH easier to get that dang fitting on and off

i will tell you ive learned so much along the way during this project and my main point i always make to myself is, if i plan on half assing it dont do it at all. take the few extra dollars or time and do it correctly. sure it might be harder or maybe a little overkill at the time but it will save so much headache down the road