SAFC Q's
- Thread starter 8T7supra
- Start date
give it more fuel, or if you are gonna stay conservative, buy a fcd. a lot of people hate them, and they can be your demise. but if you don't go crazy, it will be fine.
here's something that should set you on the right track
http://supraforums.com./forum/showthread.php?t=152334
http://supraforums.com./forum/showthread.php?t=152334
eliminating fuel cut is a bad idea. HOWEVER.... bumping it up a good bit is a GREAT idea. An SAFC will do this provided that you increase fuel pressure or get bigger injectors.
Is it the best way? NO...
Is it the easiest...no
but it will work
Is it the best way? NO...
Is it the easiest...no
but it will work
Actually, if you got a wideband and a safc, assuming that it was running rich and you had to pull fuel out, it would RAISE your fuel cut, but not elimate it.
It's not going to be running "that" rich... not enough to raise fuel cut more than 1-2 psi.
I wouldn't run over about 16 psi on stock turbo and injectors
I wouldn't run over about 16 psi on stock turbo and injectors
Come on now..... who the hell would use a SAFC to adjust their fuel cut.
The answer to his question is NO..... Why aid people in destroying their car. Look this sounds like the blind leading the blind. My advise to you is to educate your self by using the search feature on the website. Use keywords like "fuel cut" and "eliminate". Buy a lex AFM, 550's and a walbro fuel. I hope your engine is good running order or you will be posting a rebuild thread shortly after these upgrades..
The answer to his question is NO..... Why aid people in destroying their car. Look this sounds like the blind leading the blind. My advise to you is to educate your self by using the search feature on the website. Use keywords like "fuel cut" and "eliminate". Buy a lex AFM, 550's and a walbro fuel. I hope your engine is good running order or you will be posting a rebuild thread shortly after these upgrades..
Who is aiding? Blind leading the blind? Thats why I'm making over 500whp and you are still in pursuit of it.....(not to be rude, but that was a little uncalled for.)
Our man here isn't quite grasping what I am saying....
Here's how it works. Fuel cut is around 1600hz on the AFM signal. To lower that HZ reading(make the ECU see less air coming in..) you will have to physically add fuel by some means. A walbro pump will not add fuel. You have to physically add fuel by means of a FPR or bigger injectors. You then electronically scale the air flow meter signal down to reduce the duty cycle of the bigger injectors.
In turn when you pull fuel out with the AFC, it lowers the Hz reading from the AFM. This allows more air to be flowed through the turbo/engine/intercooler before reaching the 1600hz. Doing this will raise fuel cut a percentage.
Now, in order to do this properly, you will need a wideband or a dyno. No seat of the pants shit, or you'll have a fried engine. Again, I repeat....this is NOT the best way to accomplish your goal. However, a lex AFM isn't either, as you'll have rich and lean spots all over the board. Also with just a lex afm and 550's you won't have any way to tune it(other than a screw, but I'd take the electronic route of tuning with a screw any day... this isn't a carb we are working on.)
I would suggest an emanage blue with a pressure sensor(you can clamp fuel cut and add fuel after the clamp based on speed density). This works pretty good.
A maf translator, or maf pro would also work well.
A lex/550's SAFC combo(my least favorite of the group)
A VPC would work also.
bountykilla.... sorry dude, but this isn't the blind leading the blind. I've been there and done that. I know what works and what doesn't. I've had a lex AFM, vpc, SAFC and emanage at various times. I'm now in the process of going standalone. To tell you the truth, a lex and 550's would honestly be the last way to go with all the options available today. There is so much better out there. That was a great trick back in the day when there wasn't much if any aftermarket support for our cars. Now, the best methods out there rid the car of the karman vortex AFM and replace it with a MAF or speed density. The car will run SOOOO much better without the AFM there.
again.. bountykilla, no offence, but I'm not blind.
Our man here isn't quite grasping what I am saying....
Here's how it works. Fuel cut is around 1600hz on the AFM signal. To lower that HZ reading(make the ECU see less air coming in..) you will have to physically add fuel by some means. A walbro pump will not add fuel. You have to physically add fuel by means of a FPR or bigger injectors. You then electronically scale the air flow meter signal down to reduce the duty cycle of the bigger injectors.
In turn when you pull fuel out with the AFC, it lowers the Hz reading from the AFM. This allows more air to be flowed through the turbo/engine/intercooler before reaching the 1600hz. Doing this will raise fuel cut a percentage.
Now, in order to do this properly, you will need a wideband or a dyno. No seat of the pants shit, or you'll have a fried engine. Again, I repeat....this is NOT the best way to accomplish your goal. However, a lex AFM isn't either, as you'll have rich and lean spots all over the board. Also with just a lex afm and 550's you won't have any way to tune it(other than a screw, but I'd take the electronic route of tuning with a screw any day... this isn't a carb we are working on.)
I would suggest an emanage blue with a pressure sensor(you can clamp fuel cut and add fuel after the clamp based on speed density). This works pretty good.
A maf translator, or maf pro would also work well.
A lex/550's SAFC combo(my least favorite of the group)
A VPC would work also.
bountykilla.... sorry dude, but this isn't the blind leading the blind. I've been there and done that. I know what works and what doesn't. I've had a lex AFM, vpc, SAFC and emanage at various times. I'm now in the process of going standalone. To tell you the truth, a lex and 550's would honestly be the last way to go with all the options available today. There is so much better out there. That was a great trick back in the day when there wasn't much if any aftermarket support for our cars. Now, the best methods out there rid the car of the karman vortex AFM and replace it with a MAF or speed density. The car will run SOOOO much better without the AFM there.
again.. bountykilla, no offence, but I'm not blind.
No offense taken I was in a pissy mood when i made that post but why tell him things that you yourself would not do??? Hhhmmm..... Kinda pointless when you can just say dont do that here is the better way.
Lex Afm, 550's and SAFC is still one of the easiest ways to get to 400+rwhp and the most cost effective.
Lex Afm, 550's and SAFC is still one of the easiest ways to get to 400+rwhp and the most cost effective.
In my opinion, best to worst
1 AEM EMS/ Motec /Stinger(most expensive...over a grand)
2 MAFT Pro
3 VPC
4 Lex/550's(or whatever size upgrade) Emanage blue
5 MAF Translator+ 3" GM maf
6 Lex/550's SAFC
7 Lex+550's only
8 Fuel Cut defenser
Just depends on what type of driveability you want, how much you want to put into tuning, and what kinda money you want to spend.
I recomend buying a good wideband first. My personal preference on the above options would be the ones that rid you of the KV AFM... VPC, MAFT, Maft pro, standalone
1 AEM EMS/ Motec /Stinger(most expensive...over a grand)
2 MAFT Pro
3 VPC
4 Lex/550's(or whatever size upgrade) Emanage blue
5 MAF Translator+ 3" GM maf
6 Lex/550's SAFC
7 Lex+550's only
8 Fuel Cut defenser
Just depends on what type of driveability you want, how much you want to put into tuning, and what kinda money you want to spend.
I recomend buying a good wideband first. My personal preference on the above options would be the ones that rid you of the KV AFM... VPC, MAFT, Maft pro, standalone
And also, if you're going the cheap route(safc) I'd spend the 100 extra and just get an emanage blue. You will be able to get more out of your injectors. You can also do a couple of other cool things with the boost you are planning on running. Things like pulling a bunch of fuel out of the main map to get timing up, and then adding it back in via additional injection pulsewidth modification to get the timing up(more power) and move fuel cut back more.
You could run the emanage by itself with a pressure sensor and addition injection harness and make 400 hp on stock injectors. You'll spend around $460 for this setup new with the harnesses and sensors. Not a bad setup. I made 550 whp with that very setup+ lex afm housing+RC 720 injectors.
Only reason I went standalone is for the ability to run multiple maps, traction control, two step rev limiter, and nitrous control....
You could run the emanage by itself with a pressure sensor and addition injection harness and make 400 hp on stock injectors. You'll spend around $460 for this setup new with the harnesses and sensors. Not a bad setup. I made 550 whp with that very setup+ lex afm housing+RC 720 injectors.
Only reason I went standalone is for the ability to run multiple maps, traction control, two step rev limiter, and nitrous control....