Running LEAN after upgrades

supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
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0
Southern MD
Hey guys,

My father recently has bought himself an '89 supra 7mgte manual with about 110k original miles on the dash. The car was purchased from a younger guy out of VA who lost time or interest for the car and wanted to see it go to a good home. It was in great condition and well-maintained/documented. At the time of purchase the car's only upgrade was a Turboxs RFL bov vented to atmosphere and a turboback 3in exhaust. Apart from running decently rich from this VTA set-up, the car ran really well. But a few weeks after owning it, the car started to emit the dreaded blueish-smoke and began to run hotter. We both knew that these cars had the HG issues, so that was our first project. We started the tear down, carefully removing and labeling everything. We sent the head to get a complete port-and-polish, new seals and valves and check the deck surface for warping. We bought a Toyota OEM gasket and ARP studs and torqued to spec (~80 ft-lbs). While everything was apart we figured we would do a few mods: lex afm, 550s, FPR, Walbro 255, 57 trim ct-26, new cxracing intercooler kit, gauges to monitor afr and boost, revert back to oem intake/bpv and a complete gasket kit. We used the TSRM to carefully install everything properly to it's factory location, even saving all of the original EGR components. We had been searching the forum DIY's for any other process we completed.

SO, on to the reason for posting in Tech. section instead of new member section?

When we had everything back together, the car began stumbling and idling really poorly, and would hesitate under any load. Car began throwing Code 52 for knock sensor.

We replaced the knock sensor and wiring per TSRM and forum's help. Ohm'ed out the sensor and everything is back to spec. Car still runs poorly.

We searched for WEEKS, chasing our tails.

We checked for boost leaks, none
We replaced new one-step colder plugs since the ones removed had a lighter colored electrode indicating high-temps, and the AFM with a new unit.
I read on another forum that using high-impedance injectors on a low-impedance system could cause some of the symptoms of what we were experiencing, so we bought new low-impedance RC 550cc injectors, also checking the resistor to make sure it wasn't blown: it was fine.

Now that the new injectors are on, the car runs VERY lean, idling at ~17.5 and under any throttle going down to maybe ~14.5-15.0
Car still throws Code 52. FPR reads 35 psi to the rail w/out vacuum and ~26 psi with.

Using mechanics stethoscope all plugs and injectors clicking normally, even under added throttle
Unplugged AFM and car ran noticeably worse, plugged back in.
I reset the EFI fuse, no change, checked again for vac. leaks none. The 3 coil packs ohm correctly as well as all 6 plug wires.

When searching, I saw similar threads with similar AFR's on the 550s and the majority of the threads either had an easy-fix like a melted fuse or they just fizzled out with no answer or update.

Hopefully there's something we're missing or simply dorked up, but can you guys please help us, if there is anything you all could think of we would greatly appreciate it :1zhelp:
Also I know that I can/should just purchase an SAFC or a piggyback and try and tune it out, but I know that there's a bigger issue since tons of guys on here run the 550s and lex afm without issues like this, especially lean issues.
 
Last edited:

GC89

1J-THIS
Jun 13, 2007
938
3
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38
Spokane, WA
Your fuel pressure should be set to 35-38 with the vacuum line connected, it should be higher than that without.
 

MichiganLC

New Member
Oct 30, 2015
64
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Michigan
Whee are you getting 35-38 with the vac line on? That seems very high to me with his set up. 26 should be fine.

OP, when you say 14.5 with throttle, is that WOT?


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supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
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0
Southern MD
GC89;2078700 said:
Your fuel pressure should be set to 35-38 with the vacuum line connected, it should be higher than that without.

Will turn up the FP to that and let you know how it runs.

Vf is 5v at idle and drops to 0v at any throttle, also the Lex AFM has a fixed adjustment screw for some reason, so should I figure out how to adjust this for the ECU and Vf readings?

Nick M;2078707 said:
Until the PCM gets the knock sensor signal, the 52 will be set and timing will be retarded and enrichment will happen.

So would you recommend doing the rewire and new KS again? If the PCM is retarding timing and enriching the AFRs, what would additionally make the AFR so lean?
 

supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
0
0
Southern MD
MichiganLC;2078706 said:
Whee are you getting 35-38 with the vac line on? That seems very high to me with his set up. 26 should be fine.

OP, when you say 14.5 with throttle, is that WOT?

Cold start won't stay running, once warmer bogs slightly.

on higher throttle, the lowest AFR is 14ish, so that could be considered WOT
 

MichiganLC

New Member
Oct 30, 2015
64
0
0
Michigan
You're AFM sounds fine with no code 31, your fuel psi is fine. Address your code 52 and report back your results.


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supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
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0
Southern MD
Thanks for all of the quick replies, we really appreciate it! Unfortunately leaving now for a week, then updates will start back

In addition: before leaving, tried idling the car and disconnected the primary O2 and no change in idle. New O2 is already on the way, just thought I should add.
 

GC89

1J-THIS
Jun 13, 2007
938
3
18
38
Spokane, WA
Disregard my fuel pressure comment, I was thinking completely backwards. 37.5 with vac unplugged is the perfect standard but it's common to pull a few psi with the Lexus/550 setup. 35 should be fine and yes 26 with vac on is about right as well. I agree, fix your knock signal and see where your at.

Based on your vf you are running full lean at idle and then going immediately full rich at any throttle. No point in ready too much in to that yet due to the knock code though.
 

supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
0
0
Southern MD
Update: Installed the new knock sensor and o2 sensor and also re wired the knock sensor wires and grounded both sides of the outer jacket to good grounds. No luck. Barely could keep it running while cold then once warmed up would idle ok but bad hesitation and threw the 52 code. Ordered a ecu from ebay. Part no 89661 14450 which was a replacement for my old one. Will see if that fixes.
 

supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
0
0
Southern MD
Here is an update... still have some more tests this week and also I have a new gas filter and haven't put it on yet. Also... I am sure I'm not capturing all of the tests I have done... Remember that after I put the low impedance 550 RC injectors and the 1 no. colder copper plugs, it ran even worse especially cold... hard to start, won't idle until warmed. I checked with stethoscope all injectors and they sound perfect through all throttle positions. Still throws 52 code so we'll see if new 89661-14450 ECU will fix that.

1. Vacuum test btwn EGR valve and Modulator: Cold = 0inHG = Good Hot = 2.7inHG = Good
2. EGR Valve per TSRM = Good
3. EGR Modulator per TSRM = Good = 2500RPM w/ Resistance = Good
4. VSV Tests: +12VDC - air goes out 'E' = Good, no Vdc air goes out 'G' = Good, Ohm'ed out VSV = 58 ohms (should be 38 to 44 Ohms but this should be fine)
5. Cold Start Injector Timer: STA to STJ = 12.5 Ohms (Poss. Bad or suspect since should read 50 ohms) But it's not open which is Good to me.
6. Resistor pack to injectors. All = 3 ohms = Good
7. Main Relay (remember, this was getting very warm/hot to the touch when I had the high impedance 550 injectors!) - wire 1 to wire 3 low ohm's = good, 2 to 4 had no continuity = Good, applied 12VDC to 1 and 3 and 2 and 4 have continuity = Good
8. Fuel Pump: Resistor = .8 Ohm = Good
9. Fuel Pump: Relay = +B to FP = .8 Ohm = Good, +B to FPR = 80.5 Ohm = Good, +B to PR = open Ohm = Good, Added 12VDC to +B and FPR and the relay kicked in and had .8 Ohm across +B and PR and +B and FP was open = Good
10. TPS: Fuel Cut RPM... I had a problem with this one since I wasn't really sure what I should see... Here is what I did see and here is what I didn't see!
- Warmed up engine, disconnected TPS (which did make it stumble a little at first), jumpered IDL and E2 together per TSRM and attempted to watch Tach as I idled and increased up to 2000 rpm's very slowly but saw no changes on tach. Did this every which way I could think of to get fuel cut but never saw any erratic behavior on the tach as though it's cutting fuel. Went all the way 3500 rpm's but really didn't see anything like a stumble or stop in rpm's - was constant all the way across the rpm spectrum. Not sure what I was suppose to see there?
11. AFR: As you remember, with the higher impedance injectors and the iridium plugs I idled at 14.7 AFR and went perfectly throughout the band, but of course it was still throwing 52 and hesitated badly and barely boosted and not drivable - with the new injectors and the new copper plugs, AFR readings were: @idle = 17.3 (used to be 14.7), @1200 rpms = 16.6, @1500 = 16.4, @2000 = 15.4 and at 3500 = 14.7. Seemed very lean on the lower rpm range but not sure.
12. EGR Canister: Did the air test to check flow i.e. check valve and all looked good = Good
13. I need to order that Dash Pot for the throttle body since it was missing and the previous owner had the vacuum from the btm of the TB attached to the side of the intake manifold where the boost gauge goes. But it did run good that way!!

The tests I still need to perform are ISC valve with resistances and applying voltages, also, the rebuilt head still is haunting me in that maybe they messed up on the valve guides - leak test might show that?)
 

Janch

New Member
Jul 23, 2012
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Riga
This might sound stupid and maybe im saying it because i didnt go over all what you write, but did you clear codes after fixing the issues?

i had code 52 and i replaced 1 dodgy KS still had code, rewired and code is gone. But make sure you clear codes by removing fuse or battery.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,231
36
48
Atlanta
You need to use a multimeter to verify that the signal wire to each knock sensor shows no continuity to ground. If it does, this indicates that a strand or two of the shielding
wire is in contact with the signal wire, and you will always get a code 52.

PS- Exactly what type of wire did you use for the rewire job?
 

Janch

New Member
Jul 23, 2012
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Riga
also what i read and i though is brilliant idea is to bench test KS with rewire
ground it, screw in somewhere where possible - i had other 7M engine laying around so i used original KS holes, and hit the block with hummer (not too hard). I believe you can do the same with existing engine inside the car. and with multimeter read signal wire, when knocking you should see some readings.
 

supraficial

New Member
Mar 20, 2013
62
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0
Southern MD
UPDATE: rewired the knock sensors again and it still threw code with two brand new Toyota knock sensors, so on the bench I tested the two knock sensors that originally came out and they were working fine and giving signals, so I put those original knock sensors back in with the new wiring and no code 52!! Now the idle is still very rough and the afr still reads lean about 17.0 idle and ~14 WOT but it boosts very nice now and finally has power back. Tons of power!! But anything outside of boost is stumbling badly still. Any ideas what that could be? Checked for boost leaks and still none