Replaced hub, now I don't have ABS

[radiod]

So here's the deal. I was going to do a wheel bearing that was long overdue and the bearing decides it likes life inside the hub so much that it didn't budge with the press almost maxed. Having put too much time in it already, I had to look for other options, so I went calling around to wreckers to try and find a replacement hub. I found one, but it turned out to be from a non-ABS car. It still had that tab where the ABS sensor mount was, so I measured it all out and drilled holes for the ABS sensor. Put the rest of it all back together with my rotating assembly and whatnot, just a new bearing and the modified hub, and of course I'm getting an ABS code for the wheel sensor now. Cleaned it up and double checked measurements and still have the Antilock light popping up when you hit 20kph/13mph.

My question is this...is the problem with my modified hub or is it likely that the ABS sensor was just on it's way out and this aggrivated it enough to finally give out? I had the light coming on for that sensor after having the car parked for a year and a half, but it ended up clearing up by itself after a few weeks of driving. How precise does the sensor have to be in terms of loaction in the hub? The drilled holes were measured, but will a couple thousandths make a difference? I just want to avoid going and buying a sensor just to find out that's not the problem. If I do need to get a new hub to get my ABS back, I'm likely just going to roll with no ABS for the time being.

 

[Nick M]

Your DVOM(digital volt-ohm meter, multimeter to most of us) set to Hz will tell you if the sensor works. Of course if you don't have the ABS hub, I suspect you don't have the reluctor ring. Reluctance is resistance to a magnet, which causes the pulses. JJ, Figgie or somebody else can go into more detail on that, but you need to have a frequency output. And you don't, so the code is set as soon as you get moving.

 

[radiod]

The part I replaced was the cast piece that bolts up to the ball joints, nothing more.

I think it's 43211 in this picture:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=4802&P=1

Otherwise I put in a new bearing and my old stuff back in.

You're saying I can test the wheel speed sensor by hooking up the multimeter and just spinning the wheel off the ground though?

 

[toyotanos]

You can test the speed sensor by checking to see how much resistance is in its coil. If its OL/infinite resistance you cut a wire in there somewhere. If its 0 ohms, there's a short in it. Both will cause the sensor to not signal and require sensor replacement. The other possibility would be that the clearance between the sensor magnet and the reluctor ring is too great- (read- think about the CPS pickups and how close they have to be to wok right)
I hope this helps you out!

 

[jetjock]

http://tinyurl.com/3mtvntl

That and the next page...

 

[radiod]

Thanks a ton jetjock! I don't know why it didn't clue in to me to check TSRM for a test for some reason...I'll run through those as soon as I get a chance.

 

[Nick M]

Yes, you can spin the wheel and get a signal to answer your question.

 

[radiod]

So give it a good spin and I should be able to get a Hz reading. Would that mean that I'd get a tiny amount of AC voltage? I took a quick look but didn't have time to go into it too much yesterday, but was just trying to find the connector for the sensor. It sits on the inside the engine bay right beside the wheel well, correct?