so i took apart my head and my headgasket is fine ... cylinder 1 on the block however has water in it... and cylinder 4 has a glob of oil.. and on the cylinder head #5 has stuck valves.. what are your thoughts on this? cracked/warped head? why was water entering the cylinder?
Rebuilding my 7M-GTE Question
- Thread starter Kevin0393
- Start date
Most likely the water and oil is from taking the head off.
Post a picture of the head gasket head and block.
What was the original reason for bhg and taking head off?
Also can take the head to a reputable machine shop and have them check it out.
Post a picture of the head gasket head and block.
What was the original reason for bhg and taking head off?
Also can take the head to a reputable machine shop and have them check it out.
Well, that totally does not look blown to me.
So the next thing to do is check the turbo for cracks, since that's the next most likely place for oil and water to collide. After that, it's cracks in the block or head.
So the next thing to do is check the turbo for cracks, since that's the next most likely place for oil and water to collide. After that, it's cracks in the block or head.
Correct me if I wrong but that looks like a cheap fel pro head gasket? If so I would ditch it and get a quality one. Have your head checked for cracks and warpage. The water you see was from pulling your head off as the water jackets in your head. If not that amount of water would have bent every possible thing it could in that cylinder valve, rod ect. I'd start wil getting your head checked, put new hks or similar and arp hardware and see what happens. Get your problem resolved on your stuck valve too I've never seen that before on a ohc motor and quite frankly I don't see how it could be stuck without serious damage to your head. If you still have problems after that check the turbo like stated above as that's the only other source I can think of beside a crack in your cylinder wall to get that kind of result.
Kevin0393;1885932 said:
Check for shaft play. Pull it in and out and side to side. Follow tsrm procedures.
Also, apply pressure to water in the cooling jacket, and see if any comes out the oil drain. Apply pressure to oil in the oil passages, see if any gets into the cooling jacket.
For the head gasket, a metal head gasket is better, provided that you get the machine work done to support it. A metal head gasket without machining the block is a blown head gasket. (Maybe not 100% guaranteed, but close enough.) A composite gasket, like the fel-pro or Toyota OEM with decent clamping force is good. I ran 1-18 PSI on a 60-1 turbo to a stock Toyota head gasket with ARP studs torqued to 90 ft-lbs without a problem... Until the rod knock that started because I didn't replace the bearings kicked in.
For the head gasket, a metal head gasket is better, provided that you get the machine work done to support it. A metal head gasket without machining the block is a blown head gasket. (Maybe not 100% guaranteed, but close enough.) A composite gasket, like the fel-pro or Toyota OEM with decent clamping force is good. I ran 1-18 PSI on a 60-1 turbo to a stock Toyota head gasket with ARP studs torqued to 90 ft-lbs without a problem... Until the rod knock that started because I didn't replace the bearings kicked in.