starscream5000 said:
I just talked to Accelerated Performance, they said Titan makes a gasket I can use. Is this info correct?
Ready for a new headgasket, questions
- Thread starter TargaMK3Turbo
- Start date
I just talked to Accelerated Performance, they said Titan makes a gasket I can use. Is this info correct?
We're not joking when we say that, "if you want to make sure you'll never have to go through this again, then pull the block and have it fixed up like you had the head done".
starscream5000 said:
Sorry to be rude here, but WHY?!?!?! It's summer, this is my summer ride. It's bone stock. Why take out a perfectly good running engine just for a head gasket?
The cometics say "Steel".... By this they mean is still a MHG?
Sorry for all teh noob questions
Yes. If you want a MHG to seal and LAST, you must be absolutely sure that the block and head are flat and smooth enough to meet that manufacture's required Roughness Average specifications. You are taking a big gamble on here by not machining the block too. Many people do this, some get away with it for a time, then it bites them in the ass, others are still strutting around with them that way and they are ok, but it's going to be in the back of your mind the entire time you punch the pedal to get that boost that, "will it blow this time?".
starscream5000 said:
Isn't that what most Supra owners think of anytime they punch the gas? :biglaugh:
Nope, not if they know they've done it right the first time (or second, or third time for those really stubborn ones) 
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TargaMK3Turbo said:
Cometic = Titan = MLS = Multi Layered Steel
MLS is a bunch of thin layers of steel stacked.
starscream5000 said:
How do I figure out the RA? Never done it before. All we did was use a dial indicator....
It may be a trick to find a good machine shop that can measure Roughness Average, it's not something you'd want to go out and buy. I couldn't find a machine shop around where I lived that could, but I found out that at the tech schools nearby they had what I needed .
.starscream5000 said:It may be a trick to find a good machine shop that can measure Roughness Average, it's not something you'd want to go out and buy. I couldn't find a machine shop around where I lived that could, but I found out that at the tech schools nearby they had what I needed
Well, I was thinking maybe the mechanic that doing it might have it.. He's got alot of weird tools...
I have no way to get the car to a machine shop, so I'm screwed there...
Edit: I just called Murrays. They have Felpro, Victor, and ROL complete headgasket kits but have to be ordered. which is best? I've always had good luck with ROL. They want like $300 for the Felpro, what a rip off. 935 sells them for $60 less.
Pull the block, it's a learning experience .
I doubt you could measure Roughness Average with the block in the car anyways. You might as well check and make sure that the rod and main bearings are with TSRM spec or you'll be having the dreaded "rod knock after BHG repair" syndrom.
.I doubt you could measure Roughness Average with the block in the car anyways. You might as well check and make sure that the rod and main bearings are with TSRM spec or you'll be having the dreaded "rod knock after BHG repair" syndrom.
starscream5000 said:Pull the block, it's a learning experience
I doubt you could measure Roughness Average with the block in the car anyways. You might as well check and make sure that the rod and main bearings are with TSRM spec or you'll be having the dreaded "rod knock after BHG repair" syndrom.
I did some reading on that. Isn't that if you don't get all the coolent outta the block? I remember it saying coolent gets on the bearings, bearing are made so only oil touches them...
Correct. The bearings are made of a softer metal. If coolant and oil mixes, you get an acidic result, it will eat through the bearings, loosening up the tollerances, leading to rod knock.
starscream5000 said:
Oil change FTW! lol
Well, I'm ordering the head studs either way.
Out or the Felpro, ROL, and Victor head gasket kits, which is the best?
Thanks for all the help so far!
starscream5000 said:
OEM>Felpro?
What should I torque em down to? I know there are 3 stages, I've never used head studs before, but I've heard they are more accurate.
The ARP studs come with a torque spec sheet in the box. The studs, using moly lube is 81 ft/lbs. Torque them is small increments each time going the correct order per the TSRM specs. Once you reach your final torque of 81ft/lbs (recommended by jdub to achieve the closest torque value possible) loosen them all again, in the correct order, and repeat the whole process for a total of 5 times. A little drastic sounding I know, but jdub has done more than a few HG in his days, so I trust him .
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