Well I got my Cooleze hardpipes installed yesterday and tried to start the car, but got nothing. Much to my surprise, the middle wire (Ks according to the TSRM) on the plug that goes on the AFM, had been cut right at the connector. Does anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to fix this, or is it just a lost cause? This gives me a reason to go MAFT-Pro and run speed density, but at the same time I don't want to shell out the $500 for it just yet.
Problems with AFM connections
- Thread starter 89TargaT
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Yes, I just figured out yesterday that mine is cut also. After I did my BHG fix on my supra I finally figured out what most of the cut or broken wires went to. It was from the previous owners faults. Going to try to fix the wire this weekend.
You can try to find a new connector or try soldering the wire to whats left.
You can try to find a new connector or try soldering the wire to whats left.
gennro;1021440 said:
Thought about the new connector, but I'm pretty sure it won't happen since it's connected to everything else. There isn't really anything left so soldering is out of the question. I'm gonna try something else during my lunch break and if that don't work, I'm going MAFTPro.
Take the plug off the afm and you can see the pins inside the plug, you can take a small precision screwdriver and push the small tang down so the pin comes out with the rubber seal, you can then take and strip the wire and put a new pin on with the old seal and reinstall it. You can get the pins from an electrical hardware store. Good luck.
Damn car still won't start. I checked the AFM, and wiring at the connector and everything is fine. It'll turn over and run for a couple seconds and then dies. It's acting the way it does when the AFM is unplugged. The car sat for almost a week while I was waiting on intercooler piping. It ran fine before that and I can't figure out what the problem is. I didn't adjust or mess with anything else in the process. :1zhelp:
Did you read what the 14 is? It tells the engine control unit that spark is not being made, so fuel injection is shut off. I would concern myself with that first.
Well I checked all my circuits as per the TSRM given the error codes that I have, and they all checked out. I was reading another persons thread on here with the same problem and the CPS ended up not being timed correctly. So, I pulled the CPS off and opened it up and found that the insulation around the 2 flat prongs was all cracked. Will this cause the CPS to not function? Reason I ask is that I had to replace the distributor on a previous car and the insides of it were cracked up like the CPS. I'm gonna try and reinstall it correctly and see if that works.
Edit: Installed CPS and car still doesn't start. I'm getting fuel and spark, and the tach bounces when I try it, but it still doesn't start.
Edit: Installed CPS and car still doesn't start. I'm getting fuel and spark, and the tach bounces when I try it, but it still doesn't start.
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What was the resistance? Based on your description of the problem the CPS is not bad. You wouldn't have spark or fuel if it was. Nor would the tach bounce. Nor do you have a CPS code. In fact, it should be impossible to set code 14 if the CPS is not functioning.
True, but the TPS must be working for it to happen. His is not.
Poodles;1022339 said:
True, but the TPS must be working for it to happen. His is not.