problems. im boosting but car isnt pulling. have some codes...

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

Here is a similar thread that i searched for. i am throwing the same codes but i have very different symptoms and mods. thanks for viewing.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46563

Basics: 1989 JDM 7m-gte, m/t
Mods: Turbo XS RFL, ghetto plumbing fixture MBC, 2.5" ic piping, 3" ehxuast
Symptoms: car drives normally and starts up like a champ. this is just after i installed a new starter too. i ran codes today and got 34, 51, and 52 but then we drove it and reset the ecu and got 51 and 52. there is a very odd situation though. if i push the throttle down, the car WILL boost and the boost guage will read anywhere from 8-14 psi. my ghetto MBC is set to 8psi. my car does not pull any harder then n/a when i am "boosting." however my bov does blow-off. it seems like its just building up boost but somehow not getting into the engine. im not sure why but the car runs good so long as i stay out of boost for mere safety.
Things I've tried: checked all ic pipes and reset the ecu. im kinda stumped at this point.
CODES: 51 and 52

where do i start? i do know of a few connections that are not plugged in around the starter area that i saw when i replaced the starter. this jdm swap was not done by me so i think they took a few shortcuts. ill be pulling her soon. i just wanted to figure the stuff out beceause im sick and tired of "boosting but not boosting" if u know what i mean.

thanks!

-Tyler

 

[thebuddrik]

im fighting the 51 myself. the told me its the TPS. i did a getto job adjusting it but my code is gone for now. as for your boost, good luck and be carefull. sounds like u might run lean.

 

[skim1040]

only thing I can think of would be a serious boost leak somewhere...But that wouldn't explain the BOV still purging...

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

i might have a small boost leak. im not getting any serious change in "richness or leaness." i can drive the car just like i used to be able to. its just when i get on it or start boosting, the car doesnt seem to respond other then the sounds that occur when u boost in a supra

i also hooked up my duck call to the bov and it was sending enough air through it to make some serious duck call sounds. lol.. thats besides the point and it is not installed anymore. as for now im just driving the car "n/a" if u will.

i will do some looking into the TPS deal.

-Tyler

 

[MKIIINA]

52 is knock sensors. your wiring is more than likely to blame here or your sensors are bad. either way its pulling timing while you are underboost and this explains the lack of power partially.

51 is TPS. check to see its set correctly with an ohm meter and feeler gauge. iirc theres a way to clean the tps but dont hold me to that. if not buy a new one

good luck man

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

thanks for the advice. i will look at those tomorrow.

so i have a question then... do these things just go out normally or is it something that results from something else going bad and so on and so forth?

anyone know how much a new TPS / knock sensor costs?

-Tyler

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

Code 52 will retard timing, and I noticed a severe loss of power under boost when I was throwing it. Most of the time it's a problem with the old wiring harness, but you can PM Shaeff for an easy rewire kit that will fix it right up.

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

sweet. ill send him a pm in a second. and you have pm shytheed dumas.

 

[Z'mnypit]

+1 on the wiring. I just had the same problem under boost and with the same codes. I followed these:http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69 and everything is perfect now. Full power under boost, no SES lights and etc.

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

dang. that knock sensor rewire seems like ALOT of work. and i just installed a new starter and that was a PITA to do. so maybe i just accidently unhooked the rear KS or something. ill have to look around and check a few things.

so did redoing the KS plugs/wires fix both the code 51 and 52?

thanks for the help

 

[starscream5000]

You need to fix the codes that appear in numerical order first, but I'd say the 52 is what's making you feel like an NA.

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

is it unsafe to drive the car with the symptoms i have and the codes that i am throwing?

sadly... shes my DD and i have to be at work by 1.

-Tyler

 

[Z'mnypit]

It got rid of my codes. Its really not alot of work, you dont have to remove the starter or the sensors them selves. I done mine in about 2 hours. Well worth it to, the car feels so much better. Under boost it would fall on its face now I cant keep my foot out of it.

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

blah. im no wiring guru either so ill have to really disect the words on that page.

is this close to a general understanding of what is being done?:

basically buy 2 new knock sensor female clips and use new rubber coated wires and run new wires to wherever they come from origionally. do this for both knock sensors. one is towards the front of the block and one is by the starter at the rear. and then ground them on the strut tower where the ground is at.

do i remove the intake manifold/plenum for easy access?

-Tyler

 

[zachm611]

you dont need to remove the intake plenum you can get to the first one fairly easy and the one by the starter is a little harder, but yes basically you are right. i did not know of Shaeff's rewire kit so i ended up buying bullet connectors and they plug right into the KS, you might have to pry it open a little to get it to slide on but it works for me...no more limp mode lol.. good luck

 

[Z'mnypit]

blah. im no wiring guru either so ill have to really disect the words on that page.

is this close to a general understanding of what is being done?:

basically buy 2 new knock sensor female clips and use new rubber coated wires and run new wires to wherever they come from origionally. do this for both knock sensors. one is towards the front of the block and one is by the starter at the rear. and then ground them on the strut tower where the ground is at.

do i remove the intake manifold/plenum for easy access?

-Tyler

Thats kinda it in a way. Basically you want some wire thats shielded. I used some network cable we had here at work. I removed the altenator to get to the front KS, then with the car on jack stands removed the rear KS plug from underneath the car. With both the plugs cut out I took them apart I cut all the wire except about 1/2in. I left it there on the main clip so I could soldier the new wire to the main clips with out having to risk breaking them.

The only other thing I didnt do that the instructions said do was ground the sheilding to the strut bar. Thats not needed. Just ground one end of the sheilding inside the car by the PCM.

 

[CampbellsChunkySoupra]

hah, im pm'ing shaeff in a second. hopefully his kit is easier.

-Tyler

 

[veedubin]

Thats kinda it in a way. Basically you want some wire thats shielded. I used some network cable we had here at work. I removed the altenator to get to the front KS, then with the car on jack stands removed the rear KS plug from underneath the car. With both the plugs cut out I took them apart I cut all the wire except about 1/2in. I left it there on the main clip so I could soldier the new wire to the main clips with out having to risk breaking them.

The only other thing I didnt do that the instructions said do was ground the sheilding to the strut bar. Thats not needed. Just ground one end of the sheilding inside the car by the PCM.

BS! I tried that and no luck, it worked for 5 minutes, then threw 52 again. grounded the end at the sensors and worked perfect. I used TV coax though. And to the OP Instead of buying new plugs, you can reuse your old one. just pull them off, look at the metal conector part, jam a pin or something in the slot directley touching the pin. then pul. they are cliped in and inserting the pin disengages it from the plastic. then just solder to that pin reassemble and viola! and when i grounded the sensor end, i just went sraight to the battery - side. so it acts another ground as well as a shield :biglaugh: good luck

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

I don't think there's any danger in running with code 52, especially since the retarded timing is the ecu going into self protection mode. It just sucks to drive it. I don't know if there's any problem driving with 51, though.

Shaeff's kit is much easier, but the rear KS is a biotch to get to. Some people manage to get a hand in there, but I just couldn't do it, and had to pull the starter. If your hands are too big, and/or if you don't have a second elbow on your arm, you might have a contortionist friend reach in there for you. It's not a fun job, but the kit makes it doable in a couple of hours without any heavy duty wiring.

 

[Z'mnypit]

hah, im pm'ing shaeff in a second. hopefully his kit is easier.

-Tyler

I believe his kit was plug and play. But its really not that bad and didnt cost me a dime. You dont have to be a wiring guru.. If he's not making them anymore, PM me and We'll work something out.

Did your car do this before you swapped the starter? If not Id make sure the KS isnt unplugged 1st.

Also to answer your other question, you should be fine to go to work. I drove mine around for 2 weeks or so before I ever got time to fix it. Id never even notice it if I stayed out of the boost.