Okay, now it looks like my Engine has rodknock, Someone please help me!

[1988SupraDreams]

Yeah, I finished up putting the intake manifold back on with another new gasket and filling up the transmission and differential after finding out that my brand new gasket on my intake manifold was leaking. So, I took it out for a test drive, about 300 feet down the road it starts to knock. I let some of the oil out of the pan after swearing and crying, and it smelled and looked black like fuel, had somehow gotten into my oil. I overrevved it once seeing as how it had been a while since I'd driven stick, but I don't think it went over redline. Also, my stupid gauges won't work, this whole thing is really upsetting me. I'm 19 years old, I've dumped 5k into this JDM swap, I need a car so I can make it to work, and it's either this or nothing. The car hasnt been running for seven months, and then this shit happens... Please someone tell me what I can do. The knocking is worst at idle and goes away all together when you revv it up to what sounds like 2.8k. I'm too scared to start it again... Also the noise changes when I depress the clutch and let it back in when the cars out of gear. Could it possibly be something with the clutch that I installed wrong?

Why is there fuel in my oil?
What are some of the causes of rodknock?
What can I do to remedy this?

Please, help me out here. :1zhelp:


:::::::::Update on Page four::::::::::::

 

[oscolivar1]

time for a rebuild thats all u can pretty much do if u wanna save your car.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Why is there fuel in my oil though?

 

[suprflyusmc1]

Why is there fuel in my oil though?

I know this isn't the advice you want, but I never suggest wrenching on your daily driver w/o back up transportation. Save 500 bucks get an old beat up honda or toyota.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

I'm 19, I'm poor, my parents are divorcing, I don't have the money for school, all I have money for is a place to live and food. My spare change went into the car, little by little.

 

[arz]

Your right to not want to start it up again. It sounds like your no stranger to pulling the motor. Rod and main bearings are easy to do and less than 200 bucks.

Just yank the motor (PRAY THAT YOU DIDNT SPIN A BEARING) pull the oil pan and change all the bearings.

Check the TSRM pages EM-69 to EM-72 read it about 4 times until you completely understand it and then order all the proper bearings from Toyota.

Its a bit of work but there are a few little things that can save you some time.

1. Disconnect the engine harness from the ECU leave every wire you can, attached to the motor.

2. Leave the motor attached to the transmission.

3. On a manual take those 4 10mm hex bolts off of the shifter, once you drop the x member its much easier to get in there.

4. Leave the powersteering lines in tact just unbolt the res and pump from the motor.

5. Leave the A/C lines in tact

6. unbolt the Clutch slave from the trans, dont break the hydraulic lines.

If you want more small tips I got em.

If you paid someone to do all of your work, then your nuts not to have spent some of those thousands of dollars on tools for yourself to keep and learn quite a bit in the process.

Keep us posted

Even if you did spin a bearing theres a cheap way out PM me if you need to know it.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Yeah, I did ALL of the work with the help of my lovely assistant (Girlfriend) Shes better at finding a 12MM out of my tool box than I am. But yes, Imma try this 1 more time, Gonna put my old NA gauge cluster in there and pray that the oil pressure gauge works, and put new oil in it, cross my fingers start it, let it idle for five seconds, and if it still knocks... Imma rip that shit out and do what you said. I swear to God after all the shit I've been through with this car, and all the time I've spent learning every little thing about it that I can, it feels like I've lost someone like a sister... Oy. I'll be sure to post my results... Ugh. Also, thank you for taking the time to make that post, it made me feel a bit better.

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Yeah, I did ALL of the work with the help of my lovely assistant (Girlfriend) Shes better at finding a 12MM out of my tool box than I am. But yes, Imma try this 1 more time, Gonna put my old NA gauge cluster in there and pray that the oil pressure gauge works, and put new oil in it, cross my fingers start it, let it idle for five seconds, and if it still knocks... Imma rip that shit out and do what you said. I swear to God after all the shit I've been through with this car, and all the time I've spent learning every little thing about it that I can, it feels like I've lost someone like a sister... Oy. I'll be sure to post my results... Ugh. Also, thank you for taking the time to make that post, it made me feel a bit better.

If you need some assistance > manpower wise, let me know. I can always stop by and lend a hand for an hour or so...

 

[johnathan1]

Don't jump to conclusions. It might not be rod knock...did you change the oil before starting it? If the oil was new, I'm guessing you were running really rich because of the huge vacuum leaks you were talking about...and fuel got into your oil...which can cause rod knock.

Can you post a video or sound clip of the sound?

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

Arz- Leather belt? lol Dad did that on an old 302, he said it lasted about 2 years or so.

Just a quick question:
When you put the flywheel on, did you put a spacer on the backside (where the clutch plate goes)? This will cause the clutch springs to hit the flywheel bolts and it sounds God awful. Just another thing to check out. If you were in my area, I'd be more than happy to help out, but CA is a bit of a drive. :icon_conf

You said it changed when you pressed the clutch... Changed as in goes away? Changes pitch? Gets louder?

Please describe the sound for us a bit more. low pitched, high pitched... Just a bit more info could help us.

 

[RacerXJ220]

Sorry man.... That sucks.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Arz- Leather belt? lol Dad did that on an old 302, he said it lasted about 2 years or so.

Just a quick question:
When you put the flywheel on, did you put a spacer on the backside (where the clutch plate goes)? This will cause the clutch springs to hit the flywheel bolts and it sounds God awful. Just another thing to check out. If you were in my area, I'd be more than happy to help out, but CA is a bit of a drive. :icon_conf

You said it changed when you pressed the clutch... Changed as in goes away? Changes pitch? Gets louder?

Please describe the sound for us a bit more. low pitched, high pitched... Just a bit more info could help us.

Go knock on a wodden table. That's exactly what it sounds like. It's really Mid pitched, Really loud, and Doesnt change pitch when I put the clutch in, it changes pace. And... Spacer? You mean that little circular thing that goes on the clutch side of the flywheel? And yes it was running rich for a long time while I figured out where my intake leak was, because the timing was God awful wrong. When I got all that straightened out, it didn't knock, I revved it up parked and everything, It only started making the noise when I took it for a test drive...

 

[bigaaron]

Fuel only gets in your oil if it gets past the rings. I would do a leakdown test before you go wasting time and money throwing new bearings in an engine with bad rings.

I've said it before: JDM 7m = rebuildable core

I know this isn't the advice you want, but I never suggest wrenching on your daily driver w/o back up transportation. Save 500 bucks get an old beat up honda or toyota.

This is great advice!

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Okay guys, did a compression test, and had a friend look at it, we both agree, rodknock. I'm gonna rip the engine out, take the pan off, and find out which ones givin' me a hard time. More money... And I'll see about getting a little beater. Thanks for all your advice guys, I'll be sure to keep you posted!

 

[arz]

One more thing to check!!!

Is it an auto??? I have heard Flexplate bolts that came loose or didnt get tightened properly dont start to rattle until a resonant frequency. Not as likely on a clutch motor but definately a microscopic possability.

mkiiSupraMan18: Leather belt?!?!? I know what your saying but NO WAY IN HELL. Maybe on a tractor or some POS motor I didnt care about.

The cheap way to go is get a new/used crank. How many people do you know with an extra block sitting around victom of a BHG. One of those guys has got to give one up for real cheep. Or if you went to a U-pull-it yard you could get one out on an NA or a Cressida there a ton of cheap (Maybe even free) cranks to be had somewhere. Get that, check the numbers on the crank, and block just like I said in my first post and get the correct bearings in there and you should be good to go.

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

^ lol, 302 doesn't fit that bill?

I got a 6m crank... $50+shipping.

Also, did you try to start it w/ plug wires disconnected to see if the sound went away?

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Yeah I cranked it with no plugs, No knock. It's rodknock, I'm 99% sure.

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

Awww.... sucks to hear man

 

[arz]

Yea I just re-read Yea a 302 isnt really a POS motor.

And I forgot about the clutch in changing the tone of the knock. But if the thrust bearings were worn (as that would be expected if the mains and rods were worn) then the crank could be moved enough forward to side load a rod (the suspect rod) and change the tone so that would be expected.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Yep, ripping it out tomorrow. Wish me luck... I need it.