oil pressure, whats good and when do i kill it?

suprajztwenty

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Nov 5, 2009
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i read that the engines run anywhere between 25-40psi depending on idling or cruising, seems like mine is at 20 when it was warmer out, just cruising at 1500 or so. now that its getting cooler out im right below the 40 mark on the stock gauge at 2700 on the highway. im not extremely worried about it...but when it gets below that 20 or 30 line on the gauge i get a little nervous if i have bearing or pump issues.

i read a writeup on running AN fittings and braided line, will this just increase flow or is pressure also boosted?

sorry, i forgot to mention im running 10w40 in it right now and its 45 ish here, front mount aftermarket oil cooler too if that makes any diff.

thanks in advance
 

Alec

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Apr 6, 2009
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4.3 psi at idle. 40 psi at 3k rpm. Minimum is 10 psi per 3k rpm. Ex: 30 psi at 3k rpm. Stock gauge isn't always accurate.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Alec;1453596 said:
4.3 psi at idle. 40 psi at 3k rpm. Minimum is 10 psi per 3k rpm. Ex: 30 psi at 3k rpm. Stock gauge isn't always accurate.

^^^ Not completely accurate ;)

TSRM spec's pressure at 4.3 psi or greater at idle...it's 36-71 psi at 3000 RPM.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4

The rule of thumb is 10 psi for each 1000 RPM above idle. The 7M-GTE has a pressure relief valve set at ~40 psi for the oil cooler circuit that limits pressure above that.

A 10W-40 will show higher pressures when it gets cold out due to the higher viscosity...cold weather thickens the oil up. I would run a 30W multigrade...Castrol European Formula 0W-30 here all year long.
 

isnms

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Mar 30, 2005
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i80.photobucket.com
p1453614_1.gif
 

SupraMario

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Mar 30, 2005
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jdub;1453608 said:
^^^ Not completely accurate ;)

TSRM spec's pressure at 4.3 psi or greater at idle...it's 36-71 psi at 3000 RPM.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4

The rule of thumb is 10 psi for each 1000 RPM above idle. The 7M-GTE has a pressure relief valve set at ~40 psi for the oil cooler circuit that limits pressure above that.

A 10W-40 will show higher pressures when it gets cold out due to the higher viscosity...cold weather thickens the oil up. I would run a 30W multigrade...Castrol European Formula 0W-30 here all year long.

FTMFW, changed my oil...for the first time ever, it didn't come out like water, I was using 10w30 castrol syntec full synthetic.
 

jdub

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SupraMario;1453616 said:
I was using 10w30 castrol syntec full synthetic.


That is a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil, it is not a PAO or ester based synthetic. The only "true" synthetic Castrol sells in the USA is Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it is a Grp IV PAO base. If you are going to use a Grp III, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is a far better choice.

BTW - "it didn't come out like water" is not necessarily a good thing. You want the lowest cold viscosity you can get. As long as the oil meets 30W spec's at 100 deg C.
 

SupraMario

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jdub;1453630 said:
That is a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil, it is not a PAO or ester based synthetic. The only "true" synthetic Castrol sells in the USA is Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it is a Grp IV PAO base. If you are going to use a Grp III, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is a far better choice.

BTW - "it didn't come out like water" is not necessarily a good thing. You want the lowest cold viscosity you can get. As long as the oil meets 30W spec's at 100 deg C.

I change my oil when the car has ran a tad bit, so I can get as much old out as possible, but yes I do see what your saying. I do recall reading a post from you stating the most wear can occur during engine start up.

What I was stating was the 10w30 was coming out like water warm when it should have been offering some sort of thicker viscosity than it was.

I hope that makes sense...how about this one. My car doesn't smoke anymore with the 0w30...is this common???? Cause its running like a champ.
 

jdub

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When oil is warm, it's viscosity is down around 10 cst vs 60-80 cst (or higher depending on OAT) for a 10W-30 cold. Therefore when oil is warm, it flows very well...this is the reason you want as low a viscosity cold as possible so you can get better flow through the system.

If the 0W-30 you are using is GC, it's a bit thicker oil at ops temp than most 30W multigrades (and still a lower viscosity than most cold). It's very possible the combination of a bit higher ops temp viscosity and a PAO synthetic is helping. I'd still check the oil on a regular basis though ;)