Oil pressure gauge

barkz

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Sep 14, 2010
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Ok, so after searching here and google, i've devised my question. Do you need to leave the stock oil pressure sending unit wire intact, and then tie into it with the aftermarket gauge? or can you just cut the wire and attach the aftermarket gauge to it? or do i NEED to use the aftermarket sending unit? i am asking this because i installed a new OP gauge and while driving it stays at 45ish psi. thats it...and below 1800rpms it starts to freak out, jumping all over the place. and while stopped it pins at full pressure, as if it were not hooked up. and sometimes while just sitting at idle it will jump around. the stock gauge never did anything so i figured it was the sending unit, but i went with a new gauge and unit too. but after an hour of trying to get the stock sender out, to no avail, i just tried hooking the gauge to the stock sender, and it seemed to be working...now im not sure. if it comes down to it ill just try again to install the new sending unit. but there is NO room to get to it. so id like to know how others have hooked up their aftermarket OP gauges. thanks
 

CyFi6

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There are some other ports on the block you can tap into. The one i used is to the right of the stock pressure sending unit. look where the stock one is and more towards the front of the engine there is another port that should be blocked off with a 10 mm plug iirc
 

barkz

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CyFi6;1684523 said:
View attachment 49488

Ya I am running a mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted in the engine bay. Heres a pic (credit to IJ) Red is pressure blue is drain.

And no you cant just use the stock sending unit for the aftermarket gauge unfortunately :( gotta use the one that came with the gauge.

Also this makes it super easy to install
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jz2jz7moilpressuresenderadapterhosefor18nptsender.php

AH!!! thanks for the link, should have known they would have something. lol. now i just gotta find the sending unit it came with lol. the shop is a mess. any tips of getting the stock one out, without having to pull the motor?
 

CyFi6

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Only advice i can give you is to leave it alone lol. Best bet is a 14mm open end wrench but its a major pita. Just leave it in there and tap off a different oil pressure port. And make sure you have either that oil line i showed you from driftmotion or a 1/8NPT female to 1/8 BSPT male adapter because the threads in the block are slightly different than whats on your aftermarket sending unit.
 

barkz

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lol ok. maybe ill just say fuck it. ive been without any pressure gauge sense i bought it(stupid, i know). so maybe ill just keep going without. i plan on a swap after deployment anyway. which starts in may, so i think i can get that far without a gauge lol
 

barkz

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well after 2 hours of trying, thinking, trying again, and rethinking.... I FINALLY got the stock OP sending unit out. good god thats a pain in the ass. all that work though was for not(except now i can do it no problem) because i did not have the correct adaptor for the new sending unit, because the new sender did not thread right in. but oh well now its a easy in and out(or out and in) once i get the right adaptor. had to make a custom 14mm wrench lol and use other tools to help get the right leverage in there, mine was stuck! lol heres a few pics of the custom combo of tools, got the 14mm on the nut, then put the 3/8th extension in the end of the 14mm, then used that stubby(9/16) wrench as a pivot point with the turbo as the leverage point. pushed on the top of the extension and pulled at the bottom.
p1686747_1.jpg
 

barkz

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i can only imagine! just posting my "tools" for future reference if other people have this issue. there is no room to get enough leverage to break a 20+ year old seal lol. at least not in mine. took alot of straining/grunting(it helps) to get it to break loose
 

barkz

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Update. Ordered the adaptor and another sending unit. dicked the threads up pretty good on the other one. Took all of 15 mins to install it this time! stock one came right out. new one w/adaptor and thread tape went right in. hooked up sending wire and ground. works AWESOME! feel a little bit better going on longer drives now. and just day to day.

ALSO:
instead of starting a new thread ill add onto this

Everytime im under the hood i notice that the #6 plug wire doesnt seat very well, and comes off WAY too easy. and today not only was that going on, but while looking at that i noticed #5 was not seated at all. So at best i was running on 5 cylinders. but the damn wires keep coming out. and im not even getting that satisfying CLICK when i press the wires onto the plugs. Any ideas? maybe just where the wire clips onto the plug, try and squeeze those closer together? Im going to make sure the plugs are in straight and its not a leak popping the wires out. but just wondering if anyone else has had this issue. a new set of wires may be in order anyways so we will see
 

CyFi6

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A lot of aftermeket plug wires are known for not clicking into place properly, which ones do you have? Also you need to make sure you have JIS height plugs and not ISO which are a little bit shorter.

Glad you were able to get that gauge done!
 

barkz

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im thinking the plugs are shorter. pretty sure they(the wires) are OEM replacements.(came with the car) another reason to replace. Just getting closer to my deployment so its hard for me to justify my purchases, as i will be either swapping or buying already swapped upon return from said deployment. but i think new plugs(again) and wires will be ok. this way if i sell the car i can have another thing added to the GOOD list lol