iS THERE ANY BODY OUT THERE THAT HAS SEEN OR HEARD OF THIS BEFORE? I JUST REBUILT MY 7MGTE AND AS FAR AS I KNOW EVERYTHING IS BACK IN THE PROPER CONFIGURATION. iHAVE NO SPARK AT THE SPARK PLUGS. i HAVE CHECKED THE DIAGNOSTIC CODES AND FIRST I HAD A THROTLE POSITION SENSOR PROBLEM. TURNS OUT IT WAS IN WRONG. I FIXED THAT AND RESET THE ECU. NOW IT SAYS THAT EVERYTHING IS GOOD, BUT ITS NOT. I HAVE NO SPARK. CAN ANYONE HELP?
No spark no trouble codes help?
- Thread starter CHRIS EICHMAN
- Start date
whats with the yelling? 
Check the tsrm, and follow those trouble shooting guidelines, that will get you farther,faster and more accurately then us shooting the shit playing online techs Once things get ruled out it makes it easier for the guys that know the electric system to help pinpoint the issue.
Id start with basic connections though since you just did a major over haul, a LOT could have been overlooked.
Check the tsrm, and follow those trouble shooting guidelines, that will get you farther,faster and more accurately then us shooting the shit playing online techs
Once things get ruled out it makes it easier for the guys that know the electric system to help pinpoint the issue.Id start with basic connections though since you just did a major over haul, a LOT could have been overlooked.
grimreaper;1139264 said:whats with the yelling?
Check the tsrm, and follow those trouble shooting guidelines, that will get you farther,faster and more accurately then us shooting the shit playing online techs
Id start with basic connections though since you just did a major over haul, a LOT could have been overlooked.
Sorry, My wife tells me that all caps is yelling. I am new at this. Please bear with me. Thank you for your reply. Im not sure what the tsrm is but if it is the throtle pos sensor I have adjusted it and all resistance values fall within specs. Is that what you meant? Thanks again for any help.
Here is the TSRM link:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx
You'll find it to be an invaluable resource. It certainly would've helped you with your overhaul!
As stated above, follow the troubleshooting guidelines here and post your findings/results. We'll all be glad to help you from there.
Good luck and WELCOME!!!
-Kenny
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx
You'll find it to be an invaluable resource. It certainly would've helped you with your overhaul!
As stated above, follow the troubleshooting guidelines here and post your findings/results. We'll all be glad to help you from there.
Good luck and WELCOME!!!
-Kenny
rawmk3;1139292 said:
I do have a manual. It is not a tsrm. It is a haynes. I have been through it and done tests on the coil pack, the cam position sensor, and the igniter. the test on the igniter did not produce the results specified in the manual so I replaced that and still no spark. I do have power at the coil packs. As far as grounding them, should I run a ground strap from the packs to engine ground? I wasnt sure about that because the pack itself is rubber mounted and the igniter uses momentary ground to produce spark. Iwill try a strap to engine ground. Thanks for your reply. I will also order the tsrm.
There is a ground point on the intake side of the coil bracket. It grounds by the fuel rail between the throttle body and the fuel pressure regulator. That should be all you need. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow to show you exactly what im talking about. And I believe u can get the TSRM online. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IN&P=1 Save that to favorites, to access the TSRM online.
jetjock;1139752 said:
Well your awefully good at pointing out that im wrong, but yet you offer no input as to why i am wrong. Or help the person asking it in the first place. Do u seriously have nothing better to do than follow me around when I give someone an IDEA as what to do, and tell me im wrong, then offer no help to said person in the first place. The ground wire is there for a reason, yet im wrong. Please ellaborate as to why im wrong, or how the guy can fix his problem. :3d_frown:
Sigh. I warned you, post bad info and you'll get called on it. As an SME that's what I'm tasked with doing. It's entirely up to me to decide if I want to educate the ignorant or those that don't know what they don't know and as anyone here will tell you I don't spoon feed such people. Besides, as a UTI grad you should be able to see the mistake more easily than a lay person.
As for helping the guy I did...by telling him he received useless tech information. We can do this forever but it'd be better for all concerned if you'd get your facts straight before posting...
As for helping the guy I did...by telling him he received useless tech information. We can do this forever but it'd be better for all concerned if you'd get your facts straight before posting...
CHRIS EICHMAN;1139310 said:
OK JJ, where in my information saying there is a ground line from the intake side of the coil mounting bracket to the head am I wrong? If he has power at the coil pack and didnt cut any harnesses, all I can gather is either he has a full set of bad coils, or there is no ground. Understandably the ground is there for a reason, and yes they are rubber mounted to the valve covers, which is why there is a ground strap. All I asked was if he regrounded the stupid thing. I did not claim it would solve his problem, and yet your telling me im posting misinformation. He said he had an issue in his CPS, and ignitor, yet flat out said he replaced the ignitor, and the CPS was wrong. So why are u trying to make a claim like I know nothing about what im talking about?
jetjock;1139752 said:
And my point of that is all u should need, was referring to the mounting point. Where to ground the stupid thing in its stock location. Is there misinformation there? Or are u just trying to prove your smarter than I am. Spoon feeding info to people, thats a friggin joke right? All you have done thus far was claim that im wrong, and then show nothing as for how the person to fix it, and no data, or information on how your information is correct. Hell with my knowledge, and your evident thought of everything I say being wrong, I should just throw my car in the garbage and find an old car. cause these new fangled cars are just beyond my comprehension.
You know Raw, maybe you should go back to a '70s SBC. The coil pack ground to the head has nothing to do with them not firing.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1139042&postcount=6
Now, if there is an interuption of the G1, G2, or NE signals from the CPS...that's a different story
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1139042&postcount=6
Now, if there is an interuption of the G1, G2, or NE signals from the CPS...that's a different story
Sorry guys, didnt mean to start anything. thanks raw, I did ground it and it didnt have any effect. My primay resistance on the coils is 7 ohms. that is 2 more than the specs allow. I was hoping it would be a drastic difference in the resistance if they were bad. Also they all 3 read the same. 7 ohms. Jet do you know if 2 ohms is enough to get no spark. I probobly do apear ignorant to you high tech guys.Bear with me or dont. this is my first experience with anything newer than 1975. Im used to old chevys. just tryin to fix my sons car. I spent over 2.5k so far on the rebuild so you can probobly relate to my frustration nno spark.
You didn't start anything and you really should have that ground connected. The problem I had was him saying that's all you'll need when in fact you need a lot more and *don't* need that ground for the engine to start.
I didn't read the whole thread again but check to be sure you have +12 to each coil. The igniter supplies ground. To manually check a coil simply connect the secondary to a spark plug that's grounded, connect a wire to the pin that doesn't have 12 volts, and flick the wire across battery negative. Don't leave it connected.
If the coils check out you can remove the CPS and spin it by hand to save wear and tear on the starter and battery while troubleshooting. After all you don't care about timing right now, you only care about spark. Lastly make sure the igniter case is grounded. If it isn't they'll be no spark...
I didn't read the whole thread again but check to be sure you have +12 to each coil. The igniter supplies ground. To manually check a coil simply connect the secondary to a spark plug that's grounded, connect a wire to the pin that doesn't have 12 volts, and flick the wire across battery negative. Don't leave it connected.
If the coils check out you can remove the CPS and spin it by hand to save wear and tear on the starter and battery while troubleshooting. After all you don't care about timing right now, you only care about spark. Lastly make sure the igniter case is grounded. If it isn't they'll be no spark...
Jet, thanks for the quick coil test. they work. is there somthing besides the resistance and air gap measurements for the cps? the3 measure 170 ohms and I checkedthe air gaps are fine. There is one thing i left out. the igniter i bought was not new. I still have not run the 3v test on it. The case is grounded. 500 bucks from toyota for a new one. thanks again
Here is how to do the igniter test:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334
How do you know the igniter is grounded?
Here's a simple mod that ensures it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217
For the CPS, 1st of all make sure it is aligned like this with the crank damper pointing at zero and both cam gears pointing at the index marks on the back plate:
What JJ is getting at is test it's output signals. You can do it on the car using the starter (pull the EFI fuse), but that's going to be hard on your starter/battery. Or, you can remove the CPS (note the exact position the reluctor points at) and spin. In both cases you measure the NE, G1, and G2 pins...the wire colors are (on an '89):
G1 - Red
G2 - Yellow
Ne - Blue
Ground - Black
An analog meter is easiest...you just look for oscillations in the needle as the CPS is spun.
The next step would be to check the wiring from the igniter and the CPS to the ECU...refer to the TEWD here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47
And here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334
How do you know the igniter is grounded?
Here's a simple mod that ensures it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217
For the CPS, 1st of all make sure it is aligned like this with the crank damper pointing at zero and both cam gears pointing at the index marks on the back plate:
What JJ is getting at is test it's output signals. You can do it on the car using the starter (pull the EFI fuse), but that's going to be hard on your starter/battery. Or, you can remove the CPS (note the exact position the reluctor points at) and spin. In both cases you measure the NE, G1, and G2 pins...the wire colors are (on an '89):
G1 - Red
G2 - Yellow
Ne - Blue
Ground - Black
An analog meter is easiest...you just look for oscillations in the needle as the CPS is spun.
The next step would be to check the wiring from the igniter and the CPS to the ECU...refer to the TEWD here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47
And here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48
make sure your ecu is grounded. we just had this problem in a very similar situation. rebuild and all. the ground bolted to the intake manifold was bad, at least the terminal was. Regrounded the ecu inside the car and it fired right up. peace.
jdub;1141964 said:Here is how to do the igniter test:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334
How do you know the igniter is grounded?
Here's a simple mod that ensures it:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217
For the CPS, 1st of all make sure it is aligned like this with the crank damper pointing at zero and both cam gears pointing at the index marks on the back plate:
What JJ is getting at is test it's output signals. You can do it on the car using the starter (pull the EFI fuse), but that's going to be hard on your starter/battery. Or, you can remove the CPS (note the exact position the reluctor points at) and spin. In both cases you measure the NE, G1, and G2 pins...the wire colors are (on an '89):
G1 - Red
G2 - Yellow
Ne - Blue
Ground - Black
An analog meter is easiest...you just look for oscillations in the needle as the CPS is spun.
The next step would be to check the wiring from the igniter and the CPS to the ECU...refer to the TEWD here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47
And here:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=48
Thanks for the very helpful info on testing the ign system. I have checked all these things except for the wiring from the igniter to the ecu and the cps to the ecu. My wife needed a car to drive untill we can get a new one so I picked up another 89 turbo for 1700. Its pretty clean and runs good. So just to make sure I was checking this stuff out correctly I put the coil packs and igniter on the 89 i picked up and it fired right up. So those things are definitly good. 2 birds with one stone eh? There is continuity between the igniter and coil pack harness. Also the cps moved the ohm meter around a bit when i spun it by hand. I will check cont. between the cps/igniter and the ecu. As for the latest aquisition there is a cel code 11 and an abs code 11 and 33. I guess I will be researching those. Thanks again for all the input and I know sooner or later It will run.
I have tried everything, tested the coils, igniter(grounded) and cps. I checked the wiring harness to the ecu. Plugs and wires ok. still no spark. Does any one have any more ideas. Does anyone know a supra witch doctor, cause I swear this thing is cursed. Now the other 89 that I bought died on my wife at jury duty. No breaks this month. I guess I will have that towed and start over with that one. I got a rebuilt 70 camaro in my garage and I bet it fires up first try.